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Cub 169 no spark after burnt points

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Kevin harris

New member
Joined
May 9, 2020
Messages
1
Location
Georgia
The ignition was left on , points smoked yikes. I bought new points and condenser.. points set .20 as the cylinder rises the points open. (I have never set points before) still getting no spark at plug. I checked volts on both terminals on coil get 12v. I'm lost and have no clue what I'm doing with this
 
First off, WELCOME! I'm guessing the coil was also destroyed. Here's the wiring diagram just in case.

217199-jpg.125626
 
I left the key on for too long recently on my 149. The coil got so hot the oil started bubbling out the top of it. Still ran, but the coil kept leaking oil so I replaced it.
 
Make sure it’s not a coil for a car. Apparently they fire much hotter. I bought a tractor once that kept melting the points. A guy at the local IH dealer had me bring in the coil. Sure enough. Bought a new coil and fired right up.
 
First be sure the wires on the coil are connected to the correct terminals.....just got a 1250 in for repairs with the points roasted and found someone had placed the 12v hot wire from the ignition switch on the same terminal as the point wire.......also did not have an internally reaisted coil.....
If all o.k. there, by hand rotate the engine until the points are closed, either remove the spark plug or take a good known spark plug and attach the plug wire with the plug lying on a good ground such a the engine cooling shroud......turn on ignition switch and break the points apart with a screwdriver.....the plug gap should spark.........
Then use the ignition switch to rotate the engine, you should get a spark again.......
If no spark by either of these methods, remove all wires from the coil, take a 12v jumper to the + side, place the coil wire and spark plug on a ground , and with a jumper touch the - on the coil to a ground.....the plug should spark.....this takes the points out of the system and verifies if the coil is good or bad..
 
Follow Matt's static timing instructions above. Might need a small flashlight and mirror to see the timing marks. I cheated, took off the S/G mount. I also have a "buzz" continuity button on my digital multimeter. When the buzz stops, should be right on the mark, just the same as when the resistance jumps to infinity. One trick I use, get it really close, tighten down the points, and do a final adjustment by slightly bending the fixed contact arm, because it always seems to shift timing a bit, as I tighten down the points. Starts PERFECTLY. Way better than just setting the points gap!
Thanks, Matt, I've used your instructions several times!
 
Kevin - The Static Timing Instructions are the best way to set your breaker points.

The instructions I offered will get you into the ballpark quicker, to see if you have solved your no spark problem and test with.

Also, please don't bend the fixed contact in an attempt to try to correct improper gap/timing, as those contacts need to be parallel to each other to allow full contact with each other for proper performance. You must maintain "Proper Lateral Alignment" see diagram below. Your points will also last longer if you do too!

ContactPointAlignment.jpg


I've been playing with points since, well, before the internet!
Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
:popcorn1:
 
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Sometimes the points have a film on contacts that insulate them, Use a piece of 400 sand paper or business card and drag it threw the point to clean them
 
Kevin - The Static Timing Instructions are the best way to set your breaker points.

The instructions I offered will get you into the ballpark quicker, to see if you have solved your no spark problem and test with.

Also, please don't bend the fixed contact in an attempt to try to correct improper gap/timing, as those contacts need to be parallel to each other to allow full contact with each other for proper performance. You must maintain "Proper Lateral Alignment" see diagram below. Your points will also last longer if you do too!

View attachment 139047

I've been playing with points since, well, before the internet!
Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
:popcorn1:
OF COURSE you have to keep the points contact surfaces parallel and coaxial (whole surface touches at the same time) for best life. It's a testament to the brutal simplicity that they will work, even badly messed up. Mine were, when I got my 149. I only bend very slightly - maybe 0.005?
Yeah, I'm also interested in how Kevin makes out. Part of the fun here!
 
Sometimes the points have a film on contacts that insulate them, Use a piece of 400 sand paper or business card and drag it threw the point to clean them

Contact point file. Grit from sandpaper will get embedded in the points and cause issues later on.
 
Remember this ? Adjusting automotive dwell with engine running using an allen wrench was awesome !

I do!

Went out to the shop and found my good 'old' meter sitting in the same place it has been since last used in the 70's, along with the flex allen hex tool that made life sooo much easier and safer, to do the running adjustment on the GM's.

For as good as they worked, (breaker points), I really don't miss them on cars or motorcycles at all!

DwellMeter.jpg DwellAdj.jpg
 
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