Cub 102 42" mower

[jack casey]

The mower shows no model or SN. Believe it to be oem to the Cub when built in '66. The mower blades, two at 10 3/4" and one at 22 1/16" had never been removed. Needed my Fein Multimaster with carbide cutters to cut thru the nuts holding blades in place. My Dad always said... "if you have the right tool you can do anything."

Wanted to change out the belt, thought the way to do it was to put a wrench on the hex bolt (see pix #1and see pencil in 4th pix), so I did and it collapsed in pieces leaving a typical washer and an odd-looking washer with a teat on it. Now, it looks like loosening the blue-marked hex bolt will loosen everything. Right? And what the purpose of the collapsed piece? I'm lost.

In the 4th pix the grease fitting is bent. This ought be replaceable, yes?

As usual, help please.
Jack C

 

[gary noblit]

Jack,easy one first..grease zerk is 45 deg.(normal-ok)..It appears your tension spring broke and that is the piece you're calling a teat on it..The kicker.. if your belt is still tight your tensioner is set up.I'd be very careful how I removed that bolt.The scale of rust is a good clue it's not going to come willingly...lots of soaking and maybe heat.I'm not familiar with the size of that post that you assume bolt goes thru...Have you looked at the under side for a clue??

 

[dschwandt]

There is a nut on the under side of the deck for the bolt that goes through
The tensioner arm.
That a whole ass'y is probably rusted solid and is why it won't move.
Ther is also the bolt that holds/held the spring in place, yours looks to have had the head broken off, again, nuts are on the underside of the deck.

You are probably going to need these parts, they used to be available in a kit IIRC.
Charlie at CCS would know for sure

#34 IH-486355-r1 tension arm
#37 IH-486361-r2 Spring
#36 638-04012A shoulder bolt

As an example, This is the kit but it may not be correct for your application, Better check with Charlie AKA Digger at CCS, his ad is up above

 

[jack casey]

There is a nut on the under side of the deck for the bolt that goes through
The tensioner arm.
That a whole ass'y is probably rusted solid and is why it won't move.
Ther is also the bolt that holds/held the spring in place, yours looks to have had the head broken off, again, nuts are on the underside of the deck.

You are probably going to need these parts, they used to be available in a kit IIRC.
Charlie at CCS would know for sure

#34 IH-486355-r1 tension arm
#37 IH-486361-r2 Spring
#36 638-04012A shoulder bolt

View attachment 150631View attachment 150632View attachment 150633
View attachment 150634

As an example, This is the kit but it may not be correct for your application, Better check with Charlie AKA Digger at CCS, his ad is up above
View attachment 150635

There is a nut on the under side of the deck for the bolt that goes through
The tensioner arm.
That a whole ass'y is probably rusted solid and is why it won't move.
Ther is also the bolt that holds/held the spring in place, yours looks to have had the head broken off, again, nuts are on the underside of the deck.

You are probably going to need these parts, they used to be available in a kit IIRC.
Charlie at CCS would know for sure

#34 IH-486355-r1 tension arm
#37 IH-486361-r2 Spring
#36 638-04012A shoulder bolt

View attachment 150631View attachment 150632View attachment 150633
View attachment 150634

As an example, This is the kit but it may not be correct for your application, Better check with Charlie AKA Digger at CCS, his ad is up above
View attachment 150635

There is a nut on the under side of the deck for the bolt that goes through
The tensioner arm.
That a whole ass'y is probably rusted solid and is why it won't move.
Ther is also the bolt that holds/held the spring in place, yours looks to have had the head broken off, again, nuts are on the underside of the deck.

You are probably going to need these parts, they used to be available in a kit IIRC.
Charlie at CCS would know for sure

#34 IH-486355-r1 tension arm
#37 IH-486361-r2 Spring
#36 638-04012A shoulder bolt

View attachment 150631View attachment 150632View attachment 150633
View attachment 150634

As an example, This is the kit but it may not be correct for your application, Better check with Charlie AKA Digger at CCS, his ad is up above
View attachment 150635

Youse guys are a great help. I cleaned up the spring area, rusty but seems solid. The dirty side is good. The belt is on reasonably tight, not too tight and is flexible. Ain't breaking anytime soon so I'm leaving it alone. The main drive belt ought be swapped out, check with CCS.
Not sure of the relationship between rusted away bolt and tension arm.
Cheers, Jack C

 

[dschwandt]

This deck must have been sitting out in the elements and neglected like forever to be rusted up solid like that.
if the belts are in the same shape, don't expect they will last very long if at all once you start using it.

The busted bolt and spring are what keeps the tension on the idler pulley.
It needs to be operable to keep the belt tight and be able to flexat the same time and give should the need arise so as not to cause damage elsewhere.