Creeper Gear CC
Member
Preferred methods? It’s a 1968 10hp Kohler with some gnarly looking black sludge in it lol
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Crankcase flush
- Thread starter Creeper Gear CC
- Start date
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I believe MMO has a procedure printed on the flap of the label for just that.
I may try it myself soon as I get the 126 ready to fire up.
I may try it myself soon as I get the 126 ready to fire up.
If it's really thick and nasty to the point of not running out, I'd pull the engine, drop the pan and do it right. If it's not that gross, run it to get it hot and drain while it's hot. Fill with new oil, run for a couple hours and repeat.
I just bought a 149 that sat out for a long time. It had some water in the crankcase but aside from a few lumps it drained ok. I just put new oil in so I could evaluate the engine. Ran it just long enough to know it seemed ok and the tractor drove forward and back. I will try the MM oil when I get it ready. Made a new wiring harness for it, someone had made a mess of the old one. That was an interesting endeavor, I had cardboard on the bed in spare room. Spent some cold, rainy days making it, and had to buy a special crimping tool for the Packard 56 wire terminals. In retrospect, I could have bought a harness for what I spent but now have the tools for next time. Sigh. Cheers and thanks for the MM oil tip.
snicklas
Well-known member
I was going to say the same thing as Charlie. If it's bad enough you think you need to do a chemical flush. It's really not that hard to pull the engine, and a pan gasket is cheep compared to a rebuild because of a big chunk of schmoo running through something.....
On a 106/7 (this is an assumption, since you said 10 horse and 1968, it should be in that series) 4 bolts to hold it in, disconnect the driveshaft, pull a few wires and it should lift out. When we had a Zig-Zag, I don't think we even pulled the hood/grille to pull the engine. We do on the wideframes and up... but the grille is only 4 more bolts. Oh, and don't forget to pull the PTO rod out, since it runs between the S/G and the block.... If you have everything on hand, might be a 3-4 hour job at the most. Less than 10 bucks for a pan gasket, 2 or 3 cans of brake or carb cleaner and fresh oil. I recommend 30wt, or I have ran 15w-40 diesel oil. Don't use 5w-40 full synthetic diesel oil, it's too thin.
On a 106/7 (this is an assumption, since you said 10 horse and 1968, it should be in that series) 4 bolts to hold it in, disconnect the driveshaft, pull a few wires and it should lift out. When we had a Zig-Zag, I don't think we even pulled the hood/grille to pull the engine. We do on the wideframes and up... but the grille is only 4 more bolts. Oh, and don't forget to pull the PTO rod out, since it runs between the S/G and the block.... If you have everything on hand, might be a 3-4 hour job at the most. Less than 10 bucks for a pan gasket, 2 or 3 cans of brake or carb cleaner and fresh oil. I recommend 30wt, or I have ran 15w-40 diesel oil. Don't use 5w-40 full synthetic diesel oil, it's too thin.
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