converting 1450 engine rail to non rail type mounting

[rfcampbell]

Every Quietline I have worked on has larger holes in the axle channel the front bolts go through. The rear one I either reach up from underneath, or each through from the top side by the blower housing. Not much more difficult than a 149. For as few times as an engine needs to be pulled, I don't think it all that bad. There are other bolts/pins that are much more difficult to get to.

how hard is it to start the 2 front bolts being u cant access it very easy with your fingers and the axle prevents u to swing the tool u showed me? I mean how do u start these bolts?

 

[rfcampbell]

Removing the engine from a 1450 is not that much more difficult from removing one from a 149, IMHO.
The 1650 I did last winter is the smoothest running Cub I have.
And the 1450 I am presently working on will be as well as it will have a 341 heart transplant till I can find a decent 321 for it. We will see if the balance plate on the crank I got from you will make any difference.

I was wondering if u were looking for a 321 because I have a 321 block out of a 1450 never been bored It might need bored its just a extra 321 block no crank but still has cam lifters valves that I would sell if u are interested Anyone know if a person wants to reuse the balance gears that if u replace the needle bearings in the balance gears and shim then properly that they wont fail?

 

[mgonitzke]

ok u are describing a 1450 that has 2 front holes through the frame crossmember so u can get access to those 2 bolts? ok, then how do u put the bolts back in if u cant get to them if the rails are bolted on the frame? A 149 they had 2 3/8 bolt holes in the cross member that bolted the engine to the frame so a box end wrench or a ratcheting wrench can work The 1450 cubs have 2 larger holes in the cross member so u need to use a socket The tools u show I don't have never seen before but I see they would work as a socket and ratcheting wrench all in one Lets say if u didn't have these types of a tool then what would u use? Yes, a 149 u can keep the axle in and pivot it this is how I do this

You can get to them with the rails in the frame. They go back in the same way they came out. Start them with your fingers. Obviously it helps to have the two rear bolts started first so things line up.

If you don't own a breaker bar or offset box end wrenches, you should.

 

[zkoester]

My dad has owned his quiet line since new in 1977...and yes over the years we have replaced several rubber engine mounts. And used the "new" style they came out with. And if your don't keep them up they cause alot of damage to the drive train to, cracking the drive disc and what not. Bit I was always told these engines are balanced differently than the solid mounts like my 70, so they needed the rubber. Only modification I did was weld a flat bar between the two engine rails to help them with support and seemed to help. I'd rather vibrate on the seat then have the engine vibrate apart.