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Cc 104 cranks but won't start

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Joined
Nov 9, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Ohio
Hello, I have a cub cadet 104 that I am trying to get running. Haven't done too much work on small engines so I am looking for some pointers. The mower has sat for about 10 years. So far I have changed the spark plug and cleaned the bowl out on the carberator. The needle valve looked good to me and so did the seat. Put in a new battery. The spark plug is getting a spark. When I go to start it, turns over find but doesn't start. I tried some starter fluid which helped but the engine never completely got going. What concerns me is I can see some air discharge from the top of the engine near the spark plug. (I attached a picture but I am not sure if you can see it) Is this a sign of a bigger problem? My next thought is to either go through the carb completely or to check compression. Any pointers would be great.
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You are either missing a head bolt or it is twisted off. Either way, that needs to be fixed, head sanded flat, and a new head gasket installed before proceeding.

Cleaning the bowl on the carb is probably not enough. You need to remove it, take it apart, and spray carb cleaner through all of the passageways inside and make sure the main needle is not clogged.
 
Once you get that head bolt issue squared away if it still won't start it might be a good idea to clean the points too. I've had them corrode even when having only sat for a few weeks in humid weather.
 
Looks like a head bolt is missing or broken off. Do a compression test to see what you get anyways. Next thing id do is install a new set of points. If it sat for 10 years points are either bad or dirty. If it was mine I'd prolly pull the carb off an clean it then after all that it should fire.
 
Thanks for the pictures and the pointers. I see the missing bolt head now. I'll take a closer look at it to see if there is a broken bolt in there.
 
I might suggest you pull another head bolt and measure the depth of both holes.That will answer the question of broken bolt or not.If it is a broken bolt do not assume you can drill it out unless you use a guide punch to get started on center.Even then it is difficult to stay centered... Pretty obvious you're going to pull head to replace gasket so it's best to start there....I had a machinist friend make a drill bushing for just such a job to keep easy out centered after...pb blaster might help also..
 
Good news is that there is not a broken bolt in the hole. I was able to put a bolt in and get it to fire up before I turned it off. Looks like the next step is to pull the head as suggested. Not sure why it was missing a bolt though. Thanks for getting me going in the right direction.
 
Yeah, you are probably right.

It was good to remove the head. The gasket was definitely blown. The cylinder bore looks good. The head has quite a bit of build up though.
 
Not knowing your long term intent....put on new head gasket (after cleaning) tighten moderate not completely( 20#?), then run a compression check.This will tell you the condition of rings and valves...Don't fire engine or it may blow the gasket..If you have 75# plus it should run.If you have that much tighten the head correctly and fire it ,let it run a few then re torque head....some engines will run with only 60# of compression.......your call...good luck
 
Keep in mind that the Kohler engines have a compression relief and a typical compression test will not work on them. Here's how you check compression in them:

IH_Kohler_Serv_Man_1-05.jpg


IH_Kohler_Serv_Man_1-06.jpg
 
Maybe there is hope for my 107's engine. Don't you hate forgetting the obvious? It took awhile to remember to check ground wires first, not power. DUH!! Compression relief. CRS syndrome only gets worse with age. How about a cylinder leak down test? That's been a pretty good indicator for OHV engines but I ever thought about flathead. 🤔
 
Just as well de-carbon the head before you install the new head gasket. Doesn't take much work, and avoids taking the head off again, which may result in a failed gasket.
 
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