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Broken teaser spring on a 124

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joe from ny

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Messages
22
Location
NY
Greetings bredren - I have a 124 that has been hard to shift lately. I have to really slam it into the gear, and it grinds a bit. Upon examining my clutch operation, I noted that my teaser spring is split in two pieces. Could that be the cause of my issue? See the photos. I will try to post s video of the clutch in operation.
8BD90522-E98D-4A8C-8511-85700D9B90E2.jpeg
B9D8ABD5-4894-44ED-80EF-2BBEAEFC7159.jpeg
9C398141-5E7A-4060-925E-208D34B3F209.jpeg
 
Here is the clutch engaged and disengaged with the engine running, and then with it turned off. See if you can see any issues with the condition or operation. I think the clutch plate is a bit worn also.

Engine off

Engine running
 
I had a broken teaser spring on my 70 and had the problems you mentioned. It works so much better since I replaced it.
 
In the two videos I linked to in post #3, does it look like the clutch is separating enough, or is it not traveling enough apart? I don’t know what a known good one looks like in operation.
 
Greetings bredren - I have a 124 that has been hard to shift lately. I have to really slam it into the gear, and it grinds a bit. Upon examining my clutch operation, I noted that my teaser spring is split in two pieces. Could that be the cause of my issue? See the photos. I will try to post s video of the clutch in operation.View attachment 135702View attachment 135703View attachment 135704
Would check loose motor bolts, alignment or binding bearing in center hub, broken teaser won't cause that problem something dragging drive saft.
 
Agree with lelder.The teaser spring is more to ensure smooth clutch engagement.If the drive shaft is turning even a slight amount you could have the problem of "grinding "the gears or hard shifting.Teaser is necessary for smooth clutch engagement -but-you can do without it if you don't mind putting up with instant clutch engagement.
Follow lelders advice to locate your problem--then also put in a new teaser spring--not an easy job if you don't have a hydraulic press but it can be done with a little back yard engineering.
 
Something else that may help you---you must maintain a pedal
free travel of approximately 3/16".This measurement is taken at the point of contact of the pedal arm with the front edge of the pedal return stop.This should give you about .050" or say 1/16" clearance between the clutch release bearing and clutch release lever ( #s 3 and 10 on your diagram).
Also noticed the clutch plate #6 is the late style with a metal center and this not the original clutch disc.
Which is good. So,someone has had it apart.
Loose engine mount bolts or out of alignment of --engine,clutch/driveshaft,to transmission coupling could be causing your problem.
 
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