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Archive through September 27, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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bbranstetter

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Brian Branstetter
Hey what do you guys think on cleaning the rear end out for a fluid change. Should I go ahead and spray it out with a brake parts cleaner and try to get all that gunk out? I didn't want to get a new filter clogged up with that crap that sticks to the side walls. I started to wipe it out by hand but wanted to get the rest out that I cant reach.
 
Seems like every fall we have people asking if lug tires eliminate the need for tire chains. I guess it's a valid question, but when you're pushing snow I can't say I've EVER had too much traction. Front mounted blades and especially snow blowers transfer weight off the rear tires onto the front tires and reduce traction. You need added weight plus something that will increase the traction on slick ice & snow covered surfaces.

I made the comment a day or so ago about HDAP tires being better than turf or lug tires. Plus most 4-wheelers seem to push snow a WHOLE lot better than garden tractors do, but lots of those are 4WD, but I think the tires have a lot to do with it too. Softer rubber compounds of ATV tires grip snow/ice better than the hard rubber used to mold the lugs on lug or turf tires.

My family has had many sets of Bridgestone BLIZZAK tires for running on snow & ice. I bought a pair of Firestone Winterforce tires (same tread design as a Blizzak but molded from slightly harder rubber for longer life running on dry pavement, gives up a bit of ice traction, same traction on snow, and much longer tread life) for my FWD car in the fall before we had over 100 inches of snow several years ago. I was AMAZED how well they got me around in snow. They compress and grip the snow with thousands of sipes, and really make you go as well as AWD or 4WD. The only days I used my 4WD truck was when the snow accumulation was predicted to be well in excess of the ground clearance of my car. The most memorable day we had 15-17 inches. I even buried my truck in my driveway getting off the road that night. I think someone should mount up a pair of Blizzaks on a Cub Cadet and see how they compare to chains on turf tires. I don't think they would out-perform chains but they may come close to the same performance.

Anyhow, with light snow accumulations, 1 to 3-4 inches you may get along on grass or crushed rock with lugged tires O-K, until something causes you to slip a tire.If there's a layer of compacted snow or ice then you won't be able to move. Then you're stuck! The snow compresses, forms ice, and you have NO traction. Chains would allow you to eventually get out of the situation. This is true on 700-1000 pound Cub Cadets or 7000 pound farm tractors. One day we had the M sitting on a layer of snow/ice maybe 1/8th inch thick spinning both rear wheels and it wouldn't move. It was on a side slope, not going uphill or downhill. Typically with a car/truck you can increase wheel/tire speed to create enough friction heat to melt the snow/ice but that's not really possible with the slow speeds a CC or FARMALL runs.

If you have fancy stamped concrete, or cobblestone paving, or blacktop, and don't want to use chains because it may scratch or damage your pavement, I guess there's always a broom and plastic snow shovel you can use.

It's been my experance that Firestone tires last longer than other brands, and also pull better in most conditions. They still advertise they're "Gum-Dipped", not sure what that exactly means but I have some suspicions, and they do resist cracking & weather-checking much longer than other brands, especially the cheap imported tires. I've had several Good Year tires crack & check bad enough they ripped the sidewalls out or split the casing down the center of the circumference of the tire. The Firestone tires Miller Tire sells are not made by Firestone, Miller has licensed and modified the molds and has them made by other companies, some located off-shore I believe. Not sure they add the expense of Gum Dipping them. But Miller is a very reputable company with great customer service and I think they would sell a decent tire and stand behind it.
 
I have looked all over the internet and can not find out what the difference is for a 44, 44a, and 44c decks. Can someone direct me to the right page or post to figure this out?
 
I took my 1250 nightmare out for a rather long ride, both yesterday and today. I usually run it through the neighborhood, and it spends its time on asphalt or concrete and at about 1/2 to 2/3 throttle. The hydro lever is at full speed.

Because these machines are designed to work in some way, not scoot around the 'hood, but running it on a hard surface such as the streets, am I doing any damage or creating excess wear to the hydro, bearings and other moving parts? Unpaved ground and planted soil is much softer.

I don't want to hurt anything, but it is so enjoyable to motor through the 'hood and wave at people. They must think I am nuts. Most likely I am.



The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison. GO Bison!
 
Tires - I have always ran ag tires on my tractors with wheel weights, summer and winter. I found early on that with no diff-lock, traction with turf tires (even with weights) was not very good. I'm tooling around on some small hills and some steeper too. The ag's and weights make my tractors go like an IH Scout...
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I tried fluid, tubes with fluid in them to protect the rims and rubber on the tires, but found that tubes are a pain when you get a flat. Fluid on the tires can soften them, so I only go with tubeless tires and wheel weights now.

I like the 23 degree Firestones and they look great, but found my set of them to crack and dry rot. I've got some Carlisle ag's and they seem to have plenty of traction and are holding up well. Both do great in snow.

Speaking of snow, I use to use chains, but found them a time-bomb for fender damage. Sooner or later the rubber straps will come loose and a chain will do some damage. Where I plow and push snow, there is a bit of slope and the rest is flat. Traction hasn't been a problem with the ag's and weight. I haven't had to deal with much ice build-up as I seem to be able to take the snow down to the gravel or concrete/pavement. The only thing that will make the rear end lighter is when you lift the snow blower, but if you are careful, you can keep from getting in a traction jam.

As far as mowing in the summer, some feel ag's will damage the lawn. I've never seen this with my tractors. For me it's ag's year round!

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it...
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My Cub turns 40 next year. It would be cool to buy a new one today.
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Brian B - I saw your question twice. I would not spray brake cleaner or any other cleaner into the rear differential to clean it. I only ever wiped mine out good. In my view you don't want any chance of traces of any solvent/cleaner to get into the hydro pump.

Brian W - "scootin' round the hood", If you ain't been doing it you are just realizing what you been missing. Go for it. Get all the seat time you want. Top speed of the Hydro is 8mph and it will take it just fine.

Bill J - good point about the hills/slopes and advantage of ags. Never used rubber straps for chains. Always adjusted them to as tight as I could get them to fit and never had a fender problem on a Cub. Occassionally the extra links I would tie on with a wire tie would come loose and bang the inside of the fender, but not a real problem to fix. Are you running 6x12, 23x8.5 or 23x10.5??? Gotta make a difference in the traction.

Keith O - I hope someone pops in and answers your question on the difference between a 44, 44a and 44c deck.

Mike F - where can I find my local IH dealer?
 
Harry,I have dirt,and cement the tires will be on. The chains,well...ummmmm...I think they are 2 link? I know my dad added several links to them so I had more chain to catch for traction.

We have a huge back yard an my uncle told me he has a plow I can have to plant a garden with next year. He said he has everything to add the plow on the rear.He even said he would put it on for me before I paint the CC which may be in the spring.

I put new tires on the front last fall ,but the rear tires are looking really bad.If I found a decent set of used tires id consider buying some of those too.

Im considering when I strip down the tractor to paint it all I may just have the engine rebuilt so when I get it all back together its good to go.Its been a few years since its been rebuilt,although I will say I dont use any oil at all.

Ohhhh wow a new 149 ? Thats so awesome...I almost want one ,Ill tell my BF its his...LOL
 
Harry - I've got 23 x 8.5 Carlisle and Firestone 23 deg ag's and 23 x 10.5 Carlisle ags. The 23 x 10.5 ag's are hard as a brick it seems and very worn, but still give great traction - so I keep running them.

BTW - one of my other color tractors came with 23 x 9.5 turf tires and for my 109 I am making an exception to my bloviating about ag tires and keeping the turf tires because I like they way they look on the IH. If I get my 1650 back together, I'll put ag tires on it.

Question is - should I go with 2 ply or 4 ply???

Brian W - I see no harm in tooling around the neighborhood with your tractor, unless there is another CC feign that might knock you off the tractor and add it to their collection...
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Watch out for girls in a bikini....they might be who gets ya off that CC and add it to her collection...LOL
 
I'm not sure what the difference is between the xx mowers and the xxA mowers, but the xxA mowers were introduced at the same time as the Quiet Line. The xxC mowers are, I believe, for use with the 82 Series and beyond as they would have a wider PTO pulley, 5/8" vs 3/8" for the Quiet Line and older Cub Cadet models.
 
Just thought I would add that I have found if I remove the air from the tire and install my chains as tight as I can and then air the tires up I have no loose links. I install chains on my turf tires only . Charlie sells a neat spring with four clips that hold the chains on also. I used them last winter on my 149 and found them great with 50 lb wheel weights (2 IH 25 lb per wheel).

On my zero turn 4880 I added 4 gallons of -45 windsheild washer fluid and some dish soap in the fluid so if I get a leak I will know where to look for the leak .The weight helps when I have a side hill to mow. It would hard to stand up on the side hills I can mow now with the added weight. the only draw back is turning , If I don`t remember to reverse one wheel and ahead on the other wheel I will tear up the sod . Some pictures of what can be mowed with a Zero turn ,I will post in the sand box so Charlie does not send me nasty emails .

My best set of new tires I bought since I got hit with the Yellow bug are TRU Powers , They are a soft thread compound that now are 5 years old and look like new. But they don`t sit out in the sun much . I think the sun is what kills tires !
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I sure do wish that I could type with more than two fingers ,That way I could post long posts like Denny and Harry
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Harry,

Thank you for your answer. You are correct, after having the Nightmare torn apart for half of the summer, it is good just to run it for the enjoyment of it. These past few Minnesota days have been just right for doing so, and I plan on getting in all the seat time that I can.

By the way, Where can I get one of those 149's? My dealer doesn't have any.


The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison. GO Bison!
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Keith,

Maybe someone here can verify, but I have always been under the impression that a xxA mower deck had "water pump" style bearings in the spindles and the xxC deck have the better tapered bearings. The only difference between the std WF deck and 82 series is the mule drive hook up. I swapped out the front half of my 128 drive and bolted on an 82 series front and now I readily swap my 82 series 44C deck between all 3 of my tractors. I can also run the 82 series 50C on any if needed also.

Donald T,
Running a pulling association, I get to see nearly every available tire put to the test. The Tru-powers have no where near the grip the Firestones have. Even apples to apples with a tire swap on the same tractor, the stones always pull further. The only tire that comes close to the Firestones was the Carlise Super Lug, but they are NLA... Sad too they are great tires. Of course these pale in comparison to pro pulling tires like the Dick Cepek's, LawnTec, PitBull, and Vogel VM series.
I wonder how those would do just cutting the grass? I've never tried!
 
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