Since there's a break in the deck action.
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through September 24, 2007
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Gawd! I come in here and see a guy that looks like I use to ... see green paint ... see green paint again ... see green paint AGAIN! ... makes me think I've drank to much today ...
Charlie - That 102 goes as slow as a good Toyota but I can't mow the grass with mine
Your audio records good !!
Charlie - That 102 goes as slow as a good Toyota but I can't mow the grass with mine
Your audio records good !!Is there a way to test the ignition switch? I saw the diagram below and I'm wondering if a good test would be to place a jump wire between points B and S on the ignition switch. If the starter turns then it seems the problem is the switch is bad. Any thoughts?
129 rattle can restro continues. Denny, thanks for the advice on painting the fins but it was for naught as I had already sprayed them this morning. Not thick though, just a cursory spray of color which I think will probably burn off in record time. The fender pan needs some more TLC and a couple more coats. The hood is tomorrow mornings project.
A few pics. of the progress..
A few pics. of the progress..
John, yes. Take a volt meter, and set it to the continuity setting, and hold it to the prongs, and turn the switch. If you turn it on and positive volts show up then it works, but if nothing happens, then it is trashed.
Anyone who wants to elaborate can add on if they wish.
Glen
Anyone who wants to elaborate can add on if they wish.
Glen
rbedell
Well-known member
John P:
Here is a simplified Schematic of the Ignition Switch.
Remove the wires from the Switch. Set a VOM set on the Resistance Scale. There should be NO continuity from B to I nor N to S.
Turn the switch to the "on" position. There should be continuity (Zero Ohms) between B & I.
With the switch in the "start" position, there should be continuity (Zero Ohms) between B & I and B & S.
If you don't have any of the above, then the switch is bad.
Bear in mind, that this test is under a "no load" condition. It is usually accurate. However, it is possible, with the wires attached to the switch and under a typical load, the results may differ.
You could perform a Voltage Check with the Wires attached as follows.
With the VOM set at DC Voltage Scale, and the Black Meter lead attached to the Battery ( - ) terminal or a good chassis ground, you should have the following, considering the battery is in good condition and fully charged:
With the Red Meter Lead, you should have:
~12VDC at the B terminal
With the Igntion Switch in the On position, you should have ~12VDC on the "I" terminal.
With the Ignition in the Start Position, you should have ~12VDC on both the I & S terminal.
Hope this helps....
Here is a simplified Schematic of the Ignition Switch.
Remove the wires from the Switch. Set a VOM set on the Resistance Scale. There should be NO continuity from B to I nor N to S.
Turn the switch to the "on" position. There should be continuity (Zero Ohms) between B & I.
With the switch in the "start" position, there should be continuity (Zero Ohms) between B & I and B & S.
If you don't have any of the above, then the switch is bad.
Bear in mind, that this test is under a "no load" condition. It is usually accurate. However, it is possible, with the wires attached to the switch and under a typical load, the results may differ.
You could perform a Voltage Check with the Wires attached as follows.
With the VOM set at DC Voltage Scale, and the Black Meter lead attached to the Battery ( - ) terminal or a good chassis ground, you should have the following, considering the battery is in good condition and fully charged:
With the Red Meter Lead, you should have:
~12VDC at the B terminal
With the Igntion Switch in the On position, you should have ~12VDC on the "I" terminal.
With the Ignition in the Start Position, you should have ~12VDC on both the I & S terminal.
Hope this helps....
OK, the power is getting through the ignition switch. The problem has to be somewhere between the ignition switch and the side terminal on the solenoid. That means its either the orange wires or the safety switch itself. I see the Orange/Black wire coming up to the solenoid from the wiring harness and I see the orange wire from the ignition switch going into the wiring harness. I can't find the darn safety switch. Anyone know where the heck that safety switch is on a Model 71?
when plowing, it would have been handy having a tool box for the cresent wrench. Where is a good spot to mount one on the older (122) narrow frame cub?
(Dare I ask: At the swap meet, there were plenty of 126 style fenders available. Do they bolt on a 123?)
(Dare I ask: At the swap meet, there were plenty of 126 style fenders available. Do they bolt on a 123?)
elamott
Well-known member
I have a 129 Hydro and the automatic compression release that does not work. It does not open the valve and it is hard to start. The manual states that engines with a SN below 9006117 have an adjustable tab to increase the lift on the valve. My SN is 5154185 so it should be adjustable.
It states to remove the camshaft cover and bend the tab. WHERE IS THE CAMSHAFT COVER.
I have pulled the breather cover and my thinking is that it should be under that but the only think beneath the breather is the dip stick holder. Can someone direct me where the camshaft cover is and/or suggestions on how to fix this.
Thank you for any help
Earl LaMott
It states to remove the camshaft cover and bend the tab. WHERE IS THE CAMSHAFT COVER.
I have pulled the breather cover and my thinking is that it should be under that but the only think beneath the breather is the dip stick holder. Can someone direct me where the camshaft cover is and/or suggestions on how to fix this.
Thank you for any help
Earl LaMott
I'd like to put a set of ag rear tires on my 123. Is the 23x8.50-12 carlisle Power Trac a good choice?
http://www.carlisletire.com/products/big_biters/powertrac/index.html
Thanks
http://www.carlisletire.com/products/big_biters/powertrac/index.html
Thanks
Terry B.
That's a dash light of all things.
That's a dash light of all things.
Glen C.
Clean the tops of the valves up really well, a wire brush works well for that.
Spray PB Blaster or Kroil on them and let'um soak for a day or 3. If you can get a pair of sharp vise-grips on them, twist a little while pulling up.
Once you get'um loose, you can move them up and down all the while spraying again and again.
Once you get them both free, fire up the tractor and wire brush them off again while they are still up. Clean one more time, spray'um up good again and blow them off with the air hose and your good to go.
I always like to put some Hytran on them after i get'um working right. BUT, you'll have to keep an eye on them down the road as the Hytran will collect dirt.
Clean the tops of the valves up really well, a wire brush works well for that.
Spray PB Blaster or Kroil on them and let'um soak for a day or 3. If you can get a pair of sharp vise-grips on them, twist a little while pulling up.
Once you get'um loose, you can move them up and down all the while spraying again and again.
Once you get them both free, fire up the tractor and wire brush them off again while they are still up. Clean one more time, spray'um up good again and blow them off with the air hose and your good to go.
I always like to put some Hytran on them after i get'um working right. BUT, you'll have to keep an eye on them down the road as the Hytran will collect dirt.
John, Last week I had a no start on my 128, come find out the strap metal on the pedal linkage had broken around the roll pin that centers it on the shaft. This strap on the pedal linkage contacts the safety switch to send power to the starter/ Gen. It was an easy fix with some weld and I was back in business. The safety switch can be bypassed by jumping across the two pin connector at the switch, but by doing this you present a danger in you leave the key in the ignition all the time like I do.
Richard, looking good on the 129. Hopefully I will have some pics on my 128 resto come this winter. OLD CUBS NEVER DIE THEY GET REBUILT!
Richard, looking good on the 129. Hopefully I will have some pics on my 128 resto come this winter. OLD CUBS NEVER DIE THEY GET REBUILT!
Help!! I'm trying to get my Cub 1250 started. I bought it as is, and "as is" was seized. I found that the piston was at the top of the cycle and a bit of moisture rusted it a little. I soaked it with tranny fluid and tapped it with a mallet and wooden block and it freed up nicely. Problem now is, it wont turn over. The starter works but could it be too weak to turn the fly wheel? Any ideas? You can turn the fly wheel by hand with a little resistance.
