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Archive through September 24, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Digger: done tried that. Also tried a hammer and a pinch punch. Those pins were rusty when I whacked 'em down and that rust is holding them pretty well! Mebbe I'll have to spring for new ones.. Durn!
 
Charlie,
Would that be two FIB's? Who's that "Bad Ass" looking dude on the X82?

(Message edited by thoffman on September 25, 2004)
 
Hi Don!

After lookin' closely at it, I see what appears to be the back side of the pin protruding into the valve spring area- I'll try and send it a bit back the other way... doesn't look like there's a good angle for a punch, perhaps I can come up with something suitable.

The actual lean may be more than a couple of thousandths- the wear depth is just a few thousandths, but the actual lean may be a fair bit more- I'm workin' on measuring that right now.

I'll outwardly admit that my torque-wrench is cheap, however, I've got a test jig (weight and lever) and another (better) torque wrench to use against it to verify setting. Note that the other three fasteners torque to 35ft-lbs just fine, while this one pops off at about 26ft-lbs. It's just darned strange!

(Message edited by dkamp on September 25, 2004)
 
Richard-
Very nice write-up!

Dave-
Didn't you say that you just recently snapped off the end of a crankshaft while tightening up a flywheel? I'd get that torque-wrench checked out...

Dean-
Email me your picture and I'll resize it for you....
 
Hi Art!

Hee hee... yep- K241. Upon further inspection, the crank was already cracked right there... it had a nice polished-part to indicate it.

This is a different torque-wrench, and it's spot-on.

DK :)
 
I went to a show today in Roxboro, it's going on tomorrow as well. I didn't see a tractor with a nose that matched the one I have, but I will try to catch my father in the morning before he leaves and get a pic of the nose since he knows where the dig. camera is.

(Message edited by Mwheeler on September 25, 2004)
 
Went down to see Keith today, and he was checking for a fuel leak on his new Toyota
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Dave-
Then I'm lost...You musta pissed off the bolt-god er something!
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BTW...Went out in the boat today, looks like I'm going to be using those outdrive manuals later this fall that you sent me...
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(Message edited by aaytay on September 25, 2004)
 
Art- I must have. I put the friggin' thing back together, and torqued 'em to 25, and continued on. After getting the stator re-mounted, I'm looking at the available clearances, and seriously considering replacing the bolts with studs and lockwashers...

Everything else went back together without a hitch!

Don- I managed to get a piece of that governor shaft, and drove it back a little bit, and now the gear stays on, so that's all it needed. Think it was done that way factory, or did it slip a bit?
 
Travis:
The wheels are chocked. I am a firm believer in 'safety first!' And besides, everybody knows that a fuel tank FULL of fuel won't explode - it's just the ones with vapor... Like, Duh!

On a different note. My brother's been working on his 129. We got the steering wheel off without a problem but we're having a heck of a time with the speed ratio lever. The locking set screw is out and we can manuver it up a bit but then it gets stubborn. Any tips out there in Cub land?

thanks,
Keith
 
Well, it's blowing pretty good down here. Power went out around 3AM. I rigged a line from the camper generator to the dryer outlet in the house, so I have 110v for refrigerator, lights, TV, computer and ceiling fans. GOTTA remember to unplug that pigtail before flipping main breaker back on when power comes back. Over a million people down here without power already. Used CC's to anchor trailers; they make good anchors.
 
Charlie, I think I know what you were refering to in that plow day pic!
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Bryon's head and the water tower tank? Strange!
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Got to have some fun yesterday. One of my neighbors (the one who bought a new green LAWN tractor this summer) had his dad's 1953 Ford "Golden Jubilee" tractor in his shed. It hadn't been started for many years. I hooked a chain on the 125 and the drawbar of the Ford. After propping up the four foot deep shelf which had settled onto the tractor hood, it took several yanks to get the Ford to move. The front and calcium-filled rear tires had settled fairly well. The floor probably had four good dips in it, too. Naturally, there was only about ten feet from the back of the Ford to the two-bottom plow and other assorted heavy immobile stuff, so I could only go straight for a few feet, then had to pull at an angle with a longer chain. The doorway is about an inch and a half wider than the tractor, so Charlie steered and braked when it wanted to roll back forward.
The 125 had enough power, but it couldn't keep traction, so I moved a little, spun, backed up, and pulled again. The only weight on the 125 was me (185 pounds) and the mower deck. I would have used the 147, but I didn't like the idea of pulling that much with the tiller gearbox still mounted on it. Once it came off the "flat spot" of the tires, it moved pretty well, and pulled straight out.
He charged the battery, got enough fuel in the strainer to swell the gasket and stop the leaking, and got it running a couple hours after we got it outside. The hydraulics even worked. Sounded pretty good, except for the occasional miss, like it had a valve sticking once in a while.
He never even mentioned the possibility of using his green machine to move it.
 
Johnny S.
Yikes, I guess you have bigger problems than a couple relief valves. Drill the hole in the button end that you pushed down to start this whole problem in the first place. Make sure the valves are soaking in something. (I used Liquid Wrench.) I may have even just used a sheet metal screw that I jammed/turned into the drilled hole. Patience, the button can be pulled back up eventually.
 
David, that would take a mighty small drill bit and tap! I'll see what I've got....I'm thinking of making a something out of pipe that I can screw this thing into, and then use my Porta-Power to hydraulic them back out...
 
Anybody out there with any info on putting power steering on a 782D. I was wondering what steering box to use.
 
Brad-

Pat Irlbeck has power steering on two 782Ds, and I am putting PS on a 782D for my dad.

Takes quite a bit of work, but it can be done.

You can use any steering column, but one out of a cub cadet works best, since they mount the same way as a non-PS cub. Look for a column out of a '72 series Cub (1872 etc) MTD '82 series Cub (1782, 2182 etc) or one of the 1864 style tractors.
 
Brad- look back at my posts re. the hydraulic steering system on Loader-Mutt... I'm about half-done with it right now- made a steering column with a hydraulic steering valve at the bottom, looks totally stock from the top, and uses two small hydraulic cylinders to swing the wheels. I'm making the cylinder-mounts early this week, in hopes to have the whole machine (tractor with loader) on a trailer heading to the hydraulics shop for plumbing by Wednesday.

Keith E- Get off the phone! I'm coming over!!!
 
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