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Archive through September 24, 2004
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Maxwell, Kraig,
They do make great wall art. I'm Working on one from Super A right now. But they are way to nice to put out in the shop, mine go in the house in the den.
This is the one I did from an Original.
Thanks To everyone for the help on the 982 questions the other day it got me fixed up!!!
They do make great wall art. I'm Working on one from Super A right now. But they are way to nice to put out in the shop, mine go in the house in the den.
This is the one I did from an Original.
Thanks To everyone for the help on the 982 questions the other day it got me fixed up!!!
David B: By the top button, do you mean the one the one on the end that goes into the transaxle? Mine already have holes; do I tap them and use a screw to remove that button? Will that remove the ball (and most liely a spring)? Then do I use a punch from that end and knock the pin back down?
P
pwade
Guest
Hey guys. I got the internal 'wet' brake out of the geared transaxle OK. It's a little more involved than the earlier post led me to think, but not too bad. I found out both of my local dealers have discontinued carrying Cub Cadet stuff, so I phone ordered new 'pucks' from a sponsor of this board. The lever and stuff was easy. When I removed the front cover I saw that the bull gear needed to come out so I removed the bolt and bull gear. Then I removed the four bull gear housing bolts and the disc slipped off the splined shaft as I removed that housing. I had to persuade the disc from between the 'pucks', but the rest was easy. Looks like new pucks for sure and a new o-ring will fix me up. I plan to pack lots of grease into that bore and into the push rod. The ball won't come out of the pad retainer, but I figure it's only there to provide proper harness for the rod to wear against. Anyone know of a reason to worry about the ball not coming out? Thanks! Phillip
on oil leaks there is a easy way to locate them bye spraying foot powder after claening. spray the powder on it and around any place that looks like it leaks. start it and the oil will stick to the powder and you can follow it right to the correct spot
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Robert J. -
Since that style creeper works with different models with different driveshafts, the short one that came with it may very well NOT be correct for your 1x8.
That said, assuming you didn't toss your old driveshaft, examine it closely, there should be a score line on it - this is where you cut it if you install a creeper. If I recall correctly, anyway...
Since that style creeper works with different models with different driveshafts, the short one that came with it may very well NOT be correct for your 1x8.
That said, assuming you didn't toss your old driveshaft, examine it closely, there should be a score line on it - this is where you cut it if you install a creeper. If I recall correctly, anyway...
Geez Johnny, take a small nail or screw driver under the ball and pry that sucker back up!
ARRRGHH!
Hey Everybody... I'm reassembling a K-301 Quietline motor tonight, and running into two AAAGhrivating situations...
First- Reinstalling the bearing-plate- one of the four fasteners keeps breaking. First time around, I thought it was a bad fastener, but now I find that isn't the case... the face of the bearing-plate appears to be slightly non-flat, but only by a few thousandths... enough to cock the top of the head, and cause the fastener to snap flush with the block. Fortunately, I've been able to remove the plate, and back the broken segment right out of the block... but what the heck do I do about this? It's breaking at about 24 ft-lbs, and the book says 35 ft-lbs... the remaining three are quite happy to torque to 35...
And 2:
I installed the governor gear, then the long 'pin' and copper washer that's apparently supposed to 'hold' the gear on it's shaft... but in the case of this motor, the gear slides right on past the pin, and falls out. The gear's not showing any wear, the thing rides snug on the shaft, and the pin's not bent... ??? Isn't this pin supposed to prevent the gov-gear from sliding out?
I seem to be in a 'fastener funk' with respect to K-motors... never had that happen before...
Hey Everybody... I'm reassembling a K-301 Quietline motor tonight, and running into two AAAGhrivating situations...
First- Reinstalling the bearing-plate- one of the four fasteners keeps breaking. First time around, I thought it was a bad fastener, but now I find that isn't the case... the face of the bearing-plate appears to be slightly non-flat, but only by a few thousandths... enough to cock the top of the head, and cause the fastener to snap flush with the block. Fortunately, I've been able to remove the plate, and back the broken segment right out of the block... but what the heck do I do about this? It's breaking at about 24 ft-lbs, and the book says 35 ft-lbs... the remaining three are quite happy to torque to 35...
And 2:
I installed the governor gear, then the long 'pin' and copper washer that's apparently supposed to 'hold' the gear on it's shaft... but in the case of this motor, the gear slides right on past the pin, and falls out. The gear's not showing any wear, the thing rides snug on the shaft, and the pin's not bent... ??? Isn't this pin supposed to prevent the gov-gear from sliding out?
I seem to be in a 'fastener funk' with respect to K-motors... never had that happen before...
R
rzenker
Guest
as some of you might guess from my rcent posts i have a 149 that is sort of cobbled together and in need of repair, but not bad for free! i need to know where the choke cable outer cover gets clamped to. from the wear marks at the engine it looks to me like there was some sort of clamp on the coil holder/clamp. not the original coil or holder. any advice, comment or picture would be helpful.
J
jwackell
Guest
Hello.
All this talk of hydro leaks must have contaminated our 149. It seems one of the solid lines has developed a crack. Looking down from the top, it is the one on the right side. It is the only all steel line left on the tractor. All the others have steel ends but hoses in the middle. Is this the prefered fix? Are the lines available from the dealer or do I need to have one made up?
My second question has to do with the voltage regulator. I thought I read somewhere that this was the same as an automotive part, is this true? If so, can anyone supply the part number?
Thanks for any info you make available!
All this talk of hydro leaks must have contaminated our 149. It seems one of the solid lines has developed a crack. Looking down from the top, it is the one on the right side. It is the only all steel line left on the tractor. All the others have steel ends but hoses in the middle. Is this the prefered fix? Are the lines available from the dealer or do I need to have one made up?
My second question has to do with the voltage regulator. I thought I read somewhere that this was the same as an automotive part, is this true? If so, can anyone supply the part number?
Thanks for any info you make available!
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Steve B.
Your right on the inspection plate being a sneaky place, if it was leaking at the front it would definetly make you think Cork gasket, just like the rear seal got me.
Another place could be the gasket between the two halves of the hydro case. Here would probably be a good place to use the foot spray like Mike L. suggested. I haven't tried that but I will on the next hydro leakage.
I just tore down my 1450 and the since it started leaking so fast and was leaking large amounts I was almost sure it would be the Cork gasket. Turns out the cork gasket is fine and the leak is the right side seal on the stub shaft of the swash plate. I thought good, I can just pull the hydro, replace the seal and the cork gasket and I am back in business. WRONG, when I checked the seal on the left side with the trunion bracket was seeping a small amount. That means to do it correctly I need to tear down the hydro to replace that seal, so I might as well do all the seals.
What I'm trying to say is I have made the mistake in the past and jumped on the cork gasket and had to remove the hydro again to do it right and I hope to save others from making that mistake. I'm beginning to wonder if the cork gasket has been getting a bad rap, somone replacing it and saying it still leaks and never bothering to check farther.
Your right on the inspection plate being a sneaky place, if it was leaking at the front it would definetly make you think Cork gasket, just like the rear seal got me.
Another place could be the gasket between the two halves of the hydro case. Here would probably be a good place to use the foot spray like Mike L. suggested. I haven't tried that but I will on the next hydro leakage.
I just tore down my 1450 and the since it started leaking so fast and was leaking large amounts I was almost sure it would be the Cork gasket. Turns out the cork gasket is fine and the leak is the right side seal on the stub shaft of the swash plate. I thought good, I can just pull the hydro, replace the seal and the cork gasket and I am back in business. WRONG, when I checked the seal on the left side with the trunion bracket was seeping a small amount. That means to do it correctly I need to tear down the hydro to replace that seal, so I might as well do all the seals.
What I'm trying to say is I have made the mistake in the past and jumped on the cork gasket and had to remove the hydro again to do it right and I hope to save others from making that mistake. I'm beginning to wonder if the cork gasket has been getting a bad rap, somone replacing it and saying it still leaks and never bothering to check farther.
D
dvogt
Guest
Dave. for the gov. falling out I'd guess the pin the gov rides on in the block is pushed in to deep. as for the bolt on the bearing plate it shouldn't break off with just a few thousandths of unevanness. are you sure theres nothing in the threaded hole thats causing a bind? or the bolt to bottom? how many times did you break one off in that hole?
Robert Z,
You need number 32 in this pic,
Number 4 on the right in this pic,
It bolts to the engine here,
(Message edited by cproctor on September 25, 2004)
You need number 32 in this pic,
Number 4 on the right in this pic,
It bolts to the engine here,
(Message edited by cproctor on September 25, 2004)
Jim W,
They really should be all steel lines, I think it has something to do with cooling the Hy-Tran too.
One of the sponsors above can get them for ya.
They really should be all steel lines, I think it has something to do with cooling the Hy-Tran too.
One of the sponsors above can get them for ya.
Speakin of Plow Day, I think we need to buy Bryan a hat! Anybody besides me see 2 things that look alike in this picture!!!!!!!!
Hi Don!
It's claimed two bolts now... the 'real' ones. Before installing any bolts, I chased all the threads with a bottoming tap, washed out all the crud, and blew 'em clean with a compressed-air can... they were pretty clean before, now they're spotless.
It's definately 'cause the plate face is crooked.. I can't see how the plate would have changed since when I took it apart, but it is.
The governor-gear pin... how would I go about pulling it 'back' ?
It's claimed two bolts now... the 'real' ones. Before installing any bolts, I chased all the threads with a bottoming tap, washed out all the crud, and blew 'em clean with a compressed-air can... they were pretty clean before, now they're spotless.
It's definately 'cause the plate face is crooked.. I can't see how the plate would have changed since when I took it apart, but it is.
The governor-gear pin... how would I go about pulling it 'back' ?
Jim- re your broken steel lines... that's something that occasionally happens when lots of flex develops in the frame. There are two brackets up on the front of the transaxle that bolt through the frame rails- these MUST be tight, otherwise the frame will flex. Besides the hydraulic lines cracking, you'll also find a crack where the steering-box brace is welded to the frame, and also cracks around the bottom of the control pedestal, where it bolts to the frame. It would also be a good idea to check the bolts that hold your engine in, and the rest of the transaxle bolts.
D
dvogt
Guest
Dave if you look at the gov pin it actually comes out of the block opn the back side of it. should be easy to find. I know theres a spec for the length in the manual. simply use a hammer and punch to adjust it. a "couple thousadths " isn't going to cause a bolt to break. other wise lock washers would be snaping them off. is your torque wrench right? they do get out of spec.
