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Archive through September 24, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
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Kraig McConaughey
Maxwell, like this one? It would make for a nice wall hanging ornament for the shop.
21746.jpg
 
Ray, looks like a nice little trailer. It will have a lot of tongue weight with the axle that far to the rear though.
 
Kraig... Steve B... Just wanted to say thanks got the hydro on my 127 perfect and also kept my brothers 109 in the family, see he is a deere man and it took my 3 years to get him in a cub and the 109 { before the hydro adj, almost went thru the new garage door....NOT GOOD} so he is happy once again ....PS if he does sell it I will be the first to take it off his hands
 
Kraig:
Thanks for the comments.
Yes, the tongue weight will be heavier than it needed to be. Did a bone-head thing: When we were positioning the axle, we did it when the tongue was not attached. Would have liked a longer tongue as well, but needed to fit it into the van for the ride home.
 
Kraig, Yes, it's close to that, just doesn't have the Farmall badge on it, but has the screws where it was before. I think it has the big grille bars though, so it may not be an A model, but it is definitely a Farmall.

(Message edited by Mwheeler on September 24, 2004)
 
Digger:
huh? I tried pushing from the bottom, but there's a ball between the the bottom and the top, and the bottom is clean as surgical instruments, but it won't move toward the ball! HOW do I push from the bottom???
 
Maxwell, is it the rounded style like on the A or is it the squarish style as on a 140?
21748.jpg

140 grill

21749.jpg

Or is it like this Cub grill?
 
I will try to take a digital pic when I get home tonight, I'm in college right now.
 
I was wondering if there are different bushings for connecting the driveshaft to the transmission? I have a 128 that I installed a creeper gear on and the shorter dirveshaft that came with the creeper has the hole about 3/4" from the end of the driveshaft instead of right near the end? Can I jsut cut the driveshaft shorter? Or do I need a different bushing?

Thanks
Bob Johnson
 
Hi Kraig. Thanks for the snowthrower info. I'm going with 3 good, thick coats of graphite paint. Now to just get the cab mounted on my snowthrower tractor so I'll be all set.....

Kent
 
Kent, be sure to coat the surfaces where the discharge chute rotates. It'll keep the chute from freezing in one position.
21755.jpg
 
Hydro Leakage Troubleshooting 101 (part 1)

Some thoughts on troubleshooting hydro leaks on Wide Frames, Quietlines, and 82 series tractors. Whenever someone mentions leakage on a Hydro the first thing that comes to mind is (that darn cork gasket is leaking), and more times than not, that is correct but before you jump on it you need to find all of the leaks. Hear are some ideas that you might want to consider.

1. First thing to check is the check valves, which can be accessed by removing the transmission cover. Clean the area good, drive the tractor and see if they leak. If this is your leak you can clean them or replace them, costly but the fix is fairly easy. Check the hydro lift lines at the same time.

21758.jpg


2. If you still have leakage, check the gasket on the rear end plate and the hydro filter.

3. Still leaking, time to get serious, remove the rear fenders and clean up the hydro area on the tractor, get it as clean as you can.

4. Put the tractor up on jacks (be very careful as this is dangerous). Hook up the battery with a jumper cable. Run the tractor at full throttle several minutes, raise and lower the hydro lift, shift the transmission from forward to reverse, back and forth. Shut the tractor off and with a good light check for leaks.

21759.jpg


5. If you don’t have a heavy leak you will need to look carefully, the fluid will seep out and usually run to a point and drip. Like this drip coming off the casting below a bolt.

21760.jpg


6. If the leak is the cork gasket you need to check here, it is recessed so you have to look closely. If this is bad you are going to have to remove the hydro to replace the cork gasket. One word of caution here, I have seen the rear seal leak, run down the back of the hydro and it looked like the cork gasket was leaking.

21761.jpg


This got too long so will break it up in two parts.
 
Hydro Leakage Troubleshooting 101 (part 2)

And the rest of the story.

7. Even if the cork gasket is leaking and you are going to remove the hydro to replace it, you need to check all the other seals so you know how far into the hydro you will need to go. There are four seals you need to check, one on the front charge pump, one on the back of the hydro and two on the sides of the hydro.

8. When I am checking a seal I will clean all around it with a paper towel, then place a paper towel under the seal and run the tractor through the checks I mentioned previously. Since the hydro fluid is hard to see the paper will absorb it and it makes it easier to see. Here is the right side seal, it is on the stub shaft of the swash plate and can probably be changed when the hydro is out of the tractor without disassembling the hydro transmission.

21763.jpg


9. Here is the rear seal and it can probably be replaced without removing the hydro from the tractor. You can see the two casting on the side where the two seals for the swash plate shafts are located. You need to clean under the castings and then check for seepage after running the tractor.

21764.jpg


10. This is the left side seal on the trunion shaft, if it is leaking you will have to remove the hydro and it will have to be dissembled to replace it.

21765.jpg


Hopefully someone can use some of this information. I can’t stress enough to find all of the leaks before you remove the hydro or you will replace something, put it back in the tractor and find you will need to do it all over again.
 
Richard, very nice write up!

Bob & Bryan, I nominate Richard's "Hydro Leakage Troubleshooting 101" for the FAQ.
 
Hey Johnny S,
I had the same problem when I first started working on my 1650. I ended up drilling a hole in the top button and tapping it to accept a screw, then pulled out the button after installing a screw. Those buggers new are about $100 each.
 
Richard,

You forgot one "sneaky" place. I had a leak that I swore was coming from the cork gasket (after all the usual checks). Replaced the cork...still leaked.

Turns out that the 4 bolts in the inspection plate on the top of the transaxle can/do sometimes work loose and the gears will slosh oil up onto the cover. This one was leaking on the very front edge of the cover, midway between the bolts and up under the rear hydro case......really tricky!!!!!

BTW, If you have the fenders off and need to refill the hydro (like after you fix a seal, etc.) you can pull that top plate and just pour in 7 qts.......a lot easier that a flexible funnel in the rear cover.
 
Soooooo, if I were to troubleshoot this hydro for leaks, I guess I should clean it first.
21767.jpg

<font size="-2">Art, I'm joking I know I should clean it first, it's an old photo of that 125 I parted. :eek:p</font>

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on September 24, 2004)
 
KRAIG - At least the relief buttons were free on that tractor. I'd prefer that to a tractor that's sat outside for a couple years.
 
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