Archive through September 21, 2004

[jlang]

The car/truck salesman I've bought my last 5 or 6 GMC pickups from proudly pulled out this snapshot of a cub cadet he bought down in the Ozarks. He was so proud he got it for about $1500 as I remember. It was just overhauled and the previous owner couldn't pay the bill so he gave it to the repair man.

He said it has electric lift and the rear hitch for a plow or blade, etc. I loaned him the CD from PD6 last winter and am trying to get him to come to PD8, but his boss won't let him off! Sound familiar anyone?

He asked me what tools he could get for it, like a blade, snow blower, etc. to make it more useful. I told him I'd try to find out what fits it here.

 

[jsimpson]

Aside from the sticker shock of $350 to weld up my rotted out 44" deck, I have one remaining problem. When I was moving to Eustis, I tapped down the "towing valves" with a hammer to get it to move. They're rusty at the top, and I've had 'em soaking in Kroil. Any further suggestions for freeing them up? I can't use the tractor until those suckers are standing proud again!

 

[kdunham]

Bryan- I was about 2 miles from "that guy's" house last weekend....I was on the bike headed into Michigan so I couldn't have stolen.....uh....I mean stopped in and bought something anyway.

 

[rzenker]

can anyone tell me if a snowthrower from a 108 will fit a 149. also what parts are needed along with the unit to hook it up? thanks in advance

 

[digger]

Johnny S,
You shoulda never hammered them down, It's best to spray, tap down a little and pull them back up, spray, tap down a little and pull back up. Then grab'um and work'um up and down till they get loose. If they are down now and starting and running it dint pop them back up. Your gonna have to pull'um out, clean'um up and you should be good to go, Just make sure you clean the top real well so NO dirt gets into that hydro.

Robdrt Z,
Should be a Quick Attach and go throw snow. ;-p

(Message edited by cproctor on September 23, 2004)

 

[jchabot]

Bryan:

If I remember right that feller WAAAAAy up north even has a restored 95 electric.

 

[jbliler]

Well Jim I was thinking of you as having most of the cub line. Lot of the newer fellows have never seen pictures of your cub storage.

 

[kdunham]

Jim-I can vouch that he has one cuz he told me,not sure about the restored part. Helluva nice guy,too bad we're on opposite ends of the state.

 

[jsimpson]

I pulled 'em out; they're soaking in Kroil. But how do I get 'em up so that I can clean 'em up and work 'em free?

 

[digger]

Johnny,
The first thing I would do since you have them out would be to push them up from the bottom, Clean the tips with a wire brush and then they should just pop out the bottom. Like I said before, make real sure you have everything super clean when you put them back together and soak'um real good with Hytran along the way.

 

[pwade]

Will one of you guys who have been into the transaxle of a 1200 give me a few pointers about the sequence of disassembly? I have the TX out on the floor and drained. Of course, the reason I'm doing this is my brake pistons are seized. My local dealer tells me I have to completely dissassemble the TX to get to the pistons and free them up. Anyone feeling helpful? Thanks !!

 

[jstorma]

Kraig and Roy,

Thanks for some of the info on the 782's.

Jim

 

[lbuttke]

Was readiing the chatter about haveing a tractor dedicated for each pice of equipment. sounds like a nice thing to be able to do. but if I was to try to do it , I would have to win the lottery to do so for I would have to purchase another 11 IH cub cadets, 3 more MTD 3000 series cub cadets, 18 more 60lbs wheel weights, 14 more IH 26 lbs wheel weights and 30 more 40 lbs suitecase weights judt to cover the equipment I have on hand now.

But hey that why this is calles a hobby and we purchase itemes needed as we can afford to do so right?.
Well that how I do it, so there!!!

 

[kmorrow]

Philip W., he must've been thinking about a hydro when he told you that, as I think more disassembly is required on those than on gear drives (don't know, haven't done brake repair on a hydro - yet). I assume you're dealing with an internal brake system and the actuator piston has rusted frozen. Soak the brake adjuster screw/bolt with some PB Blaster or Kroil so you don't strip it or break it, as it may be rusted into place as well. Tilt the rear end back, standing it more or less straight up in the air for easy access. Now remove the adjuster screw and whatever else is necessary to get direct access to the actuator piston, and then you can remove the front plate/cover from the transmission. Tap the piston back out from the inside, using plenty of penetrant and taking care not to damage anything. While you've got it down this far, it's a good idea to replace the brake discs, it's pretty easy and they're cheap. Once you get the piston out, clean it up real good and buff all the rust off before putting it back in - seems like I gave mine a good coating of anti-sieze as well. Then, as always, "assembly is the reverse of disassembly". Once it's all back together, adjust the brake and you're good to go.

Remember, this is from memory, so it's possible I missed a step or two. If you run into problems, post again and somebody should be able to point out anything I missed. Good luck!

(Message edited by Kmorrow on September 24, 2004)

(Message edited by Kmorrow on September 24, 2004)

(Message edited by Kmorrow on September 24, 2004)

 

[kmorrow]

Sorry, I corrected a mistake in the earlier post...

(Message edited by Kmorrow on September 24, 2004)

 

[pwade]

Thank you very much Kenny. I already have all the outside parts pff including the adjuster and the little push rod. I'm planning to open the housing today. I'll let you know how it 'comes out' - (pun intended) and goes back. Phillip

 

[kmcconaughey]

Arrt, AMO, AMMO, What ever it takes.... p
<font size="-2">sorry about the rain delay yesterday</font>

 

[rleo]

Well:
Thought I'd show pics of the late summer project I've been working on. I wanted to build a more substanstial trailer that would hold a tank for remote watering and haul mulch, etc.

A friend gave me one of those "clam-shell" trailers that you put camping equipment in and tow behind your car. I took off the wheels/springs/tongue and attached them to the frame that we welded up in the shop. The frame is made of 2" square stock from old exhibit cases we had to demo (Traveling the Pacific). The deck is made of "Ganglam" which was also salvaged from another exhibit we tore out (Life Over Time). Don't know if the wheel placement is right, but, it's done except for adding the trailer lights.

 

[mwheeler]

I was at the dump last weekend and I was just looking through the metal bin, and I found a straight nose section to an early Farmall tractor, like an A or something. I instantly pulled it out and put it in the truck. The ribs of the grille are straight, just one edge is a little rough, I'm thinking of cutting the bad edge out and welding another piece of sheet metal in, bead blasting the whole piece, priming, and painting it. Sound like its worth my time??

 

[kmcconaughey]

I bet we're going to archive.........

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on September 24, 2004)