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Archive through September 21, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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J

jchabot

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David M:

I mentioned the rod clearance because I have had problems twice, with a regular rod in a .010 under box one of them had the hole drilled in it also. The first time I found our the same way you have, luckily the second time I caught it during assembly.
 
Jarrod...

My grandfather's Waterloo Boy ran this combination. Prior to WW2, 'distillate fuels' were very common... moreso (and less costly, and less volatile) than gasoline, so it was popular, but as others noted, you pay a horsepower price.

With low-compression head, the Kohler singles will run on Kero... Notice that older dual-fuel engines ran in the 6:1 CR or lower range. If you're gonna do this, you'll NEED to retard the spark... IIRC the 'factory suggestion' was to set point gap at 0.05" WIDER than stock, but if I were to do it, I'd certainly adjust it by ear. On older engines, the spark timing was controlled by a hand-operated lever (on my dad's Model A Ford, it's the lever found in the position you'd normally attribute to the 'turn signal' position.

You'll find that it just won't start without running it on gas. You'll also find that unburned kerosene will find it's way into the crankcase. You'll probably also find that the washing effect of the kero (leaking past the rings) will cause the bore to wear faster. Engine heat was higher... bad for a hot day, but good, in the respect that it helped warm the intake charge and make it burn better.

And nowdays, kero ain't cheap... most places that HAVE distillate fuel, carry it for heaters and lamps... so it'll be K1... kinda pricey for puttin' around the yard. Times change!

BTW... Kohlers were also capable of LPG and CNG operation using a 'mixer'... on the K-series, the LPG head was HIGHER compression...

If you come across one of those tanks, and have an urge to add it to your Original, or 100, to give it a 'nostalgic' look, go ahead and put it on... but put gas in BOTH sides. If you take a shot-glass of K1 or Diesel, and a shot of Marvel Mystery Oil, you'll get the same nostalgic aroma (and burning eyes), without the danger of destroying a newer, higher CR flathead.

DK :)
 
Not a for sale ad here....but we have a complete LPG pkg for a Kohler V-Twin command at C&G. We sold a 1864 to a tobbacco wharehouse and it was "converted" to bottle gas. Apparently Marvel.M.O. does bad things to baled tobbacco......

Kraigs CCC history lesson on the 82 series is correct. (I knew he'd catch on to the non-slanty grille tractor history someday).......

(Message edited by kupdike on September 21, 2004)

(Message edited by kupdike on September 21, 2004)
 
Yep it is all lead, filled the weight box and the open space under the seat. I am sure my weight didn't help it at all. Thanks again for all the information. Few pictures for all. Thanks. Owen.
21698.jpg

21699.jpg
 
Owen-
You may want to consider making the back of that cub lighter (Get the lead out, so to say...) once you get everything put back together.

Because of my bad memory, I'm not going to say that yours is the only home-used cub we've ever seen with a broken driveline, but it certainly has been awhile..

As you're finding out, some tire slip is a good thing!
 
Qwen check out the archive of Sept 11 .I posted some bearing and seal #s for putting a newer style carrier and 30mm axles in my 982 "Twister".I used cast iron axle tubes whitch you should already have on a 147.You could use fine spline 1" axles with stock bearings and seals but you need the newer style carrier.You need to cut the rivets off the ring gears and swap the angle one onto the newer carrier.you might have to space up the brake mounts due to the different shape of the disc hub.
 
Owen, another member here Doug Barnett, had the same thing happen to his 106. Not only did his carrier crap out, but he also has a problem with the clutch not standing up to the hard usage. He has a whole lot of weight as well as fluid filled tires and AGs. He also upgraded his 106's front axle with that off an 82 series(something like a 6 or 782). You may want to think about that as well. Art is right, tire slippage can be a good thing. With that much weight, something has to give, either the tire slips or something in the drive line will go. IMHO do think that the hydrostatic drive is a better choice for loader operations. Much less wear on a clutch.

(Message edited by jrichardson on September 22, 2004)
 
Tom,

Yea, "Two yut's.." well there are about 15 at last count. Funny being a gear head among a bunch of sports carzed teens. They just do not understand.
 
Ken U., thanks. <font size="-2">I think...</font> :eek:)
 
Jeff E. -

I dunno, WC says rain Friday from 12AM to 2AM, so if you're setting up then, you prolly deserve to get wet
lol.gif
 
Thanks guys for the advice on my 127 hydro adjustment. Is the adjustment the same on the 109 TIA Rob
 
Rob, no, the 1x9 is different, and depending on the serial number (503725 being the SN break) there is another difference.
 
Rob, I'll email you the adjustment pages it's much easier than cutting them down to postable size......
 
Kraig all I know is that it is a 1973 that is what I was told no SN left .
 
Bryan,

I thought thats what the "armed rangers" were for, one to hold the umbrella and the other to hold the flashlight... :)

If I cant borrow my co-workers trailer I may just bring the car.
 
Jeff E. -

No, no, you must be thinking of COOK county...
roflol.gif
 
Doing some wiring on a restored 104: My wiring harness is aged greatly. Having trouble with colors and brittle wires. Should I pop for a new harness or keep hammering away?
 
Tom, here's how I would look at it: It depends on how much value you put on your time and how easily you're frustrated trying to deal with brittle wires.
<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>
 
Tom-
I'm with Tedd and Kraig. Go for it...

I put a new wire-harness in a 72 I've got. They're really well put together, and although they're not the correct cloth-covered wire, they are new and bright, so they'll really make your resto "pop".
 
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