• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through September 17, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
BILL - Gerry's correct, just tighten up the point gap a little until the movable point moves, then set the crankshaft so the points are open as far as they go, then adjust to .020". Engine should start right up them right? ;-)

Last couple sets of points I've put in I install the points, then slip the .020" feeler gauge in and tighten them down, then check timing with my timing light. Saves having to adjust the points 2-3, sometimes a half dozen times.

Once the engine is running, you can "CAREFULLY" hold a small piece of Scotch-Brite, sand paper or ??? into the timing hole of the blower housing to remove the rust & dirt, and chalk, white or silver paint marker, or an artist brush and a drop of paint will hilite the marks.
 
Bill Jamison

Remove the spark plug and turn the engine over till you see the piston is a tdc clock wise from the pto end. Then turn it a small amount backwards to find the 20 deg mark.
old.gif
 
Update: I found the 'S' mark on the flywheel and set the points to .020 per the manual - and marked the 'S' with a dab of white paint and from there, via the Kohler manual, proceeded with a static points setting at .020. Also installed new points.

Here's what I've got: I crank the engine - nothing, no fire, no spark. I release the key, I've got spark and as the engine spins down in cranking RPMs, I will get an occasional fire of the engine. Definate spark when the engine is turning after the key is released from the START position to the RUN position, but zero spark when the key switch is in the START position.

Wondering if I have a bad switch.

Under edit: Don T - you can't see the cylinder with the plug out of the engine.
 
Yea,it's time to close her down. Pretty sad when the most active member needs a timing light to get it running.
 
Hi everyone! Been awhile since I've been on but I wanted to show you all what followed me home the other day. QL 1450 I date coded it to June of '76. It has the aftermarket motor bushing repair pic 3 (lol), that will not stay, a few wiring issues, the front end adjusted. I pulled the rear fenders off today and I have a lot of cleaning to do! It hasn't ran in al least 5 years that I know of, but it rolls over nice with good compression. If I am reading the meter correctly it has 564hrs on it.

David Schwandt, I looked at this tractor and the ground wire goes to the grill.




262914.jpg

262915.jpg

262916.jpg

262917.jpg

262918.jpg

262919.jpg
 
Bill J. Run a temporory wire from battery plus to the coil, opposite the points wire. That should let you fire up and run if you have a bad switch.
 
For those of you thinking any talk of snow throwers or blades is too early or "silly", this just came in from a friend in Fairbanks Alaska.....TODAY!
a_blink2.gif


262922.jpg
 
Allen Schumacher
Well I gave Bill that advice a few days ago. Not much sense giving good info if people won`t give it a try.And I don`t understand why with the spark plug remove you can see the piston when it is at tdc. A piece a wire can be used so you can see the wire lift when the piston comes up .
1a_scratchhead.gif
 
Art A
Looks like I need a hip replace and won`t be able to use my walk behind this winter. Now if I could only find a cozy cab I would be a happy man .lol

Thanks again for the 19 tooth spline to repair my blower.
worthy.gif
 
Chris: And it looks to have a Cast Iron grill also...but I spy a hole in the firewall like naybe for a grommet?? but then I see the harness laid down along the frame..... Interesting...
 
Art, I'm glad that's in Alaska and not Wisconsin...

Chris R., interesting motor restraint that the PO added. Never seen one like that before.
happy.gif


Don, most of the Kohler heads have the spark plug hole located above the valves not the piston.

262924.jpg
 
KRAIG - I was going to post the same thing to Don, but I don't have any pic's for proof. ;-)
 
Cris and anyone else who mey be keeping score here: Just dug my way back to my parts 1650 and checked the ser# 591589 built Aug '76 an it has the harness through the firewall and a CI grill.
 
David & Chris, My 1650 612727 built in june 77 has wire harness through fire wall but alu. grill. I take it the cast iron grill went out of production in 77.

262927.jpg
 
Kraig: Just for the record, is that a LP head?
happy.gif
 
Back
Top