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Archive through September 13, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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J

jclazar

Guest
Greg Lippert- I'll keep a look out for a 10" plow during the off-season. Seems like Brinly is the popular choice, I can't recall reading or seeing other manufactures. Originally, I was going to build a plow tractor but I have only a bare-bones tractor with manual lift. So, rather than take it all apart the thing to do is just build up the 1450. I'm considering a nice set of 10.5" rear ag tires-tubed and filled with Rim Guard for weight. Left needed would be the lower part of the rear lift, I think it's called a sleeve hitch, and the plow. IF I can find something after the holiday season, that would let me get started in the spring. I'm glad there would be help on site. I have an interest in the recommended plow information and will read it over.

thank you;

John
 
the implement lift handle on my QL 1000 is slipping on the shaft (i.e. when you move the handle the lift arms do not move). I have been unable to find information on how this is attached, set screw, roll pine, etc? any advice?
Also, I am new to both cubs and forums, so if this is not posted in the right place or I say something stupid (only a matter of time), my apologies.
 
Can anyone tell me which carbs were built with the 10,12 14 16hp Kohlers?
I have a #26,30,52,& 60. I never kept track what engines they were on.
 
Dan c may

Your 10 and 12 cub take a 26 and the 14 and 16 hp use the 30 . That is what I use and correct carb .
 
Thanks Don. The 52 & 60 are from quiet line I guess as they have the longer reversed choke lever.
 
Brad R. The manual lift on your 1000 is secured with a 5/16" spirol pin that is more than likely broken. May be a real PITA to remove as you will have to get the holes lined up to drive what's left of it out. Will probably come out in pieces. You may even have to drill it out. Not an easy task but then you might just get lucky.

I would lower the lift arms as far as you can get them, by force if nessesary, then move the lift arm forward as far as the travel will allow and start from that point. This should get you in the ball park as far as getting the holes lined up.

If the handle base, where it connects onto the shaft is real loose, you may be able to wiggle it around enough while prying outwards with a suitable tool and remove it that way. You then will be able to remove what's left of the pin. It may have even been replaced with a standard roll pin or even a bolt at some time by a PO.

A decent implement store should have the correct Spirol pin to replace yours with. Spirol, I believe is a brand name, but they should know what you mean by that. It is NOT a standard split roll type pin, They will work in a pinch, as would a 5/16 bolt but will probably not work for long.

Good Luck!!
 
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Art, looking good! That setup should work better for your father this winter.
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JC Lazer--be careful, plowing is addictive!!! It is really a good time. I have an old Brinly 10" that I've used on my 100, 125, 682, and 782. Those tractors handle that 10" no problem. About a month ago at a plow day I was able to use a 1450 with a 10" and it worked great! As a matter of fact, Dave Schwandt here on the forum, plows regularly with QL's. Maybe he can weigh in and let you know what he has learned using them for plowing. Certainly, S Blunier is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to plowing. Don't be afraid to PM him with specific questions. Also, if you want to get a real feel for a plow day, read the Buck Creek plow day thread! Lots of good stuff there!
 
JOHN L. - A company by the name of OHIO STEEL FABRICATING also made lawn & garden tractor attachments, including 10 inch moldboard plows. That's the brand I have, very similar to the Brinly, and works really well.

There may be other companies as well, JD made a few plows, or more correctly, had Brinly make plows for them.
 
I was out working the loader (pics later)and tested the strengh of the front axel bushing with a bucket of aglime.

Everything is repaired now, and I will get more pics tomorrow.

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Mike P - I found some pics of my weights and the front bracket I had built for plowing. It's just a modified mule drive bracket. I think the weights are 40 pounds each.

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And a couple (no very high quality) action shots at the Montrose Plow Day, 2010. The bottom one is my "baby" brother. No wheel weights necessary there! You can't really tell by the photos, but there's plenty of clearance - weights don't drag on the ground when it's in the furrow.

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Nice plowing pics!
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Back on my early one hole Brinly plow.
After seeing some more pics of other plows I have come to the conclusion that the back ground of the decal should be IH 935 white with black letters outlined in plain white.
What are your thoughts on this guys?
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Here is a pic of Wyatt's nice plow.
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and another one of mine that was in my dad's barn.
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Shultzie,

That is what I am seeing also. I took some pictures of ours over the weekend, but am having trouble getting them off of my phone. I can take more this evening. However, my decal looks exactly like Wyatt's picture. The black letters are "highlighted" by a bright white border line around the letters with the field of the decal being close to "IH White". I see no evidence on our plow that the outline was gold. One other thing I noticed, is ours is early enough, the serial number decal on the opposite side of the plow is one of the silver ones like posted on the Brinly adapter.

I can take fresh pics tonight and get them posted up......
 
SHULTZIE - In the past discussions on Brinly attachments, we always concluded that FORD Wimbledon White was the correct shade of white.
 
Shultzie-
That decal on mine is a clear background (at least that's what I recall, I could always attempt lifting a corner of the graphic to test that theory). I wouldn't be suprised if the color beneath is the Wimbeldon White that is so commonly referred to.
 
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