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Archive through September 12, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Good, good, that's what I want. Lot of criticism and personal ideas. The quality part is what got me to thinking about this, especially for trailering. That is the biggest reason for not going around the tires. The more air that gets in the greater chance of seams getting ripped out. The Sunbrella I believe is the best material to use, I made a cover for a $100,000 Donzi cigar boat with that material. I will look the next few days to see if I can find another material that I would be happy with. Will also look for something as a liner, that's a good idea. I can, eventually, do covers that will enclose the tires but personally wouldn't want to trailer with it. As for sitting outside for extended lengths <font size="-2">(Richard)</font>
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, the Sunbrella could do it but over time there is going to be some fading and should be regularly cleaned off and waterproofing put on it maybe twice a year. The only part I would be leery about is where it would meet the ground, that will be rough on anything. There was some other issues I was going to address but can't remember what they were.

Maybe we should move this over to the sandbox
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See ya over there.
 
I need a wiring schematic for a 1968 Cub Cadet Mod. 105 w/electric start. The service manual has a "picture", sort of, of the wiring, but not a real schematic line drawing. Can anybody help me?
 
Brendan, Years ago there was a product for cars that was really a plastic bag. The place mine sit (outside), and don't usually use, that would work. Would you consider doing something like that in canvas?.
 
Ralph A.,...
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...bad bad boy. You gotta check our FAQ's...
Go to www.cubfaq.com which is actually a little higher than this post, got about 80 interesting things there.
Number 60 is what you need...
If you still have a wire problem, come on back, we're here to help.
 
Here what the Cub under the Brendan's cover look like when it came home April 2008:
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This is how it looks now. I finish the 70 Saturday:
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This Cub has been in my Wife's family since it was new in 1965. I still have a few small details to take care of.
 
Dave R:
The guy with the car bags (at least the ones that were featured in the car mags, at the time) is right in my neighborhood!! I talked to him this summer - they had a garage sale at their home...

Brendan:
The issue I'd be concerned with on the covers is condensation under the covers - one of the reasons for the "carbag" was total isolation from the the floor moisture. Conventional wisdom on old cars is to cover them with something that breathes (and it's sometimes said it's better to store them above a dirt floor, than over concrete..)

So, if you're making them from a solid material, you might consider putting some mesh vents in them towards the top (just an idea..)
 
I was fiddling with a 1650 I'm trying to get running. Don't seem to have continuity from the battery to the starter/coil/points. I jumped straight to the starter and ran a wire to the + side of the coil and got it to turn over and pop a few times, but didn't get it running. All the wires seem to come from the ignition switch through the regulator, then to the coil, etc. The connections on the ignition switch are corroded, so a new one is in the works, but I pulled all the connections off the switch and hot-wired everything and still got nothing. It may also be the solenoid, but it seems to have continuity but no power is getting to the starter. The wire to trigger the solenoid comes from the regulator. The Regulator seems to be the crux of the matter, but my experience is that they don't go bad very often. Is there any way to check the regulator, before I go off buying a new one?
 
hey guys and gals i just got my first cub ih1200 i cant get it to start, i have fuel going to it, i have fire, compression, and the valves are not stuck, any help would be helpful.
 
Rick beem, I have a little shed it has my HD, front blade, a deck, 22" lawnmower, two shelfing units, two garden hoses, assorted Cub parts yard tools and fuel tanks. It's kinda full (8x10). Terry Reed is right. I need a two and a half car garage and then I still could not put my pick up in it.

Dale Merkle,

BEAUTIFUL.
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I spent the entire day with a 3/8 drill and wire wheels breathing new life into some 4.80 rims that looked like the were used on the film "Why Not to use calcium chloride." My hands will be vibrating for a week.
 
I am new to the cub club. just purchased a 149. It is really in pretty good shape. i have a couple of questions about it though that I have not been able to find answers for yet. First of all the pulleys on the mule drive need replacement and everywhere I have checked online,ie the links above I have not had any luck.
also the only markings on the deck is 483 u-1111. Any info would be appreciated.
 
Richard P.
I have a 24x30 pole building garage, and can't even get my Accord in there right now, but I need to solve the situation before winter. I need to get rid of a couple of redundant rototillers, move the lathe against the wall, and fold up the shop crane when I'm done with it, and if worst comes to worst, put the 125 outside under a tarp.

I know your pain with the wire wheel, I've been fighting the tingling of Carpal Tunnel all summer since I hurt my hand trying to start a balky Troy-Bilt rototiller that kicked back on me. If you had a sandblaster and compressor you could dispatch the rusty wheels in fairly short order. Of course then you'll have sand in your hair, nostrils, eyes, and anything else within 20 feet of the sandblasting area for the next several days. Don't even considering sandblasting without a full hood, coat, and good respiratory protection.
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Fellas,
I just installed a new thrust button and wear button at my front PTO clutch on my 129. Upon re-assembly, I can't seem to get my crank bearing to "hook" into the locking collar.
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It seems like the 'locking thread' within the locking collar is worn to the point where it won't hold the bearing any longer. So, the bearing (and of course the PTO clutch) isn't held or kept on the end of the dang crank! NOT GOOD!
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Is what I'm describing seem likely the problem?

If so, the fix is a new bearing and locking collar, correct?

Thanks for any & all thoughts/advice, Guys!
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Ryan Wilke
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Ryan, take the locking collar and bearing off, set them together like thier supose to be and hold one and turn the center of the other one while looking through the center hole. You should be able to find "center", it looks straight through. as you turn one side the centers should misalign. It should do this within about 90 degrees of rotation if it does your problem is something else. If it doesn't (misalign) and the bearing is still good, you can buy the locking collar seprately. If you know the parts guy see if he'll let you "play" with a new set so you can get a look at whats right. Also make sure you "lock" opposite the crank rotation otherwise it will work loose.
 
Bruce Nolte, I also wore out a body rasp. If I ever get wheels like these again I will find someone with a sand blaster. I got some 6-12 also and they have light surface rust. I thinking for finding that someone now. Really. I spent about 7 hours on freaking wheels. Never again. I got a mid sized roto tiller in my shed also. But sell a cub for a shed??? I don't think I'd get my price. They are not close to junk or needing repair. But they are not pristine either. I would not get my price. I'll get or rent a building before I let any of mine go for less than a new box store riding lawn mower.
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Hi everyone.Been very busy this summer so I haven't had much time to spend on the cub site but I do peek once in a while.I have picked up 2 more cubs over the summer,one is a 122 with a creeper drive and the other is a 124 with an original hood on it.As long as its a cub its good.Have a great day-will post a few pictures later.K.W.
 
Brenden:

Do you know what snowmobile covers are made of-- that may be a good material for your covers. Also perhaps a vent on the cover will eliminate the internal air pressue, they also do that on some snowmobile covers.
 
Hi Guys, I need some help uploading pics to this site. I have never had to reduce pics and living alone I have to learn alone. I have tried time and time again using IrfanView with no success. I have also tried the archives (vault) but have problems with the terminology. I have no problems with emails or even uploading to craigslist. I'll gladly take this to the Sandbox but I need someone to explain very simply just how to downsize a pic and I posted here for initial exposure. After all, I'm trying to post cub pics.
I realize this is simple once learned but the operative word here is "learned". You see now why I consider myself "dumb as a chicken" when it comes to editing pics.
Thanks to any and all, Wayne
 
David R.,
Thanks for your helpful reply!
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I understand what you're saying about looking through them and turning one to watch for the mis-alignment.
When I hold the two in my hand, it does "mis-align".
Yep, the bearing is still a good bearing.

Regarding your advice of, "Also make sure you "lock" opposite the crank rotation otherwise it will work loose."

It seems to me that If I slip the locking collar on the crank with the bearing seat facing the bearing, the locking thread can only go one way. Once under power, the collar can only turn into the bearing the correct way (rotation) to lock the two together - correct?
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With the collar and bearing in my hand, I can turn the bearing and watch it mis-align... however, once it's installed, it doesn't seem to lock in - as if it jumps the thread and never locks in....as if the collar/bearing engagement thread is stripped out ever so slightly but enough.
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In other words, the thread seems to catch in my hand; but when under power, it acts as though it never tightens up.
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Thanks in advance for any & all help, Guys!
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Ryan Wilke
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Ryan-

Theres no thread...it's an eccentric stub on the bearing and eccentric bore in the collar that accepts it. The bearing is designed for either direction of rotation depending on application.
 

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