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hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
Ron S - I wasn't sure it was supposed to jacknife that much. Been to long since I looked at one.

Mike F - well the engine is back in and I'm just trying to finish up the muffler and heat shield install. Already put the oil in it. Probably give it a try this weekend and then I'll let you know.
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
John M.
The 108 I just finished up had the same problem.
A couple thin shims between the rear bolts of the engine and the frame fixed that. I used s/s flat washers, they are thinner than a standard washer.

I think the rear holes in the frame get deformed when/if the mount bolts get loose enough for the engine to move around. There was only one bolt left holding the engine in this unit when I got it and it was loose!

Make sure the driveshaft and pilot bearing are lubed a little and leave the mount bolts just a little loose, then try shifting the engine a bit, up, down, back and forth side to side to find the 'sweet spot' where the d/s stops spinning. You could leave the plug out and let the s/g turn the engine while doing this to be safe.
 

pwiggins

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Pat Wiggins
Update on priming my '67 123 hydro. Removed check valves and filled with fluid. Still not priming. "Friend" used NAPA 1410 filter. I have read some links that say to only use Cub Cadet 723-3014 filters because of anti-siphoning issues. Is this true and could this be the cause of the priming issue?
 

digger

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Digger
Here's the info I have,

Cub Cadet OEM PART NUMBER: 923-3014 723-3014
Fleetguard PART NUMBER: HF6096
Wix PART NUMBER: 51084
Purolator PART NUMBER: L14670
Baldwin PART NUMBER: B163 --- BT8486 new number
John Deere PART NUMBER: AM39653
Fram PH2844
Napa filters are wix 51410 wix 1410 napa 51084 wix 1084 napa. However the wix 51084 or the 1084 napa are for the castiron rearend tractors and then 51410 wix or the 1410 napa filters are for the aluminium rearends.

Under Edit,
Did you roll the engine over a little and let the fluid suck down into the pump? Or did ya just pour some in and go?
 

jmitchell

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John E. Mitchell
David S.. Thanks for the heads up...I am confused though on where did you use the washers at? Between the frame rails and the oil pan to raise the engine up a tad? I've gotten this 126 pretty well sorted (I think) and this is they type of thing that makes me crazy, the gear grinding is unacceptable and hopefully be an easy to cure problem, now that I'v got confirmation on what I thought was the problem IS indeed the same as other members have tackled...I appreciate the info.
 

kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
Hmmm Hydro filters. Click HERE and scroll all the way to the bottom for the Hydro Filter comparison that Travis and I did some years back. (wow that was almost 12 years ago
icon_eek.gif
) Travis cut the filters open and I took photos and did the posting.
 

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jmitchell

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John E. Mitchell
Hey thanks Steve B. I was thinking the exact same thing about using a Dremel and sanding drum to slightly open up the pilot bushing..I assume you used some type of grease to lube then d/s end and the bushing? I was thinking of using Lucas synthetic grease there..It's the red tacky stuff!
 

pwiggins

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Pat Wiggins
Digger

Thanks for the info on the filters. The rearend is cast iron so the NAPA 1410 is the wrong filter? I did turn the pump over by hand while the check valves were out to see if I could purge some of the air. Reassembled the tractor, hoisted the back end and tried to purge the pump with no effect. So, I ordered 923-3014 filters online. They've shipped already. When I get them I'll disassemble, prime and try again. Getting pretty good at the diassemble part. Gotta love a narrow frame!
 

ekincaid

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Ethan Kincaid
Ok so now I'm nervous...I have a Napa 1410 filter on my 125 am I in trouble??????i have the genuine cub cadet filter on my 1450 I got that 1410 before a had a great source for cub parts
 

digger

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I only posted what had been posted long ago.
I have no idea on anything other than Fleetguard or Cub Cadet filters, as I have never used anything but Fleetguard on anything IH made in my entire life, and never will, LOL

That philosophy takes the guess work and headaches of trying to find alternatives!
 

stanner

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Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
beware the Fram choice, as their book list the wrong one. they spec a filter with an anti-drainback valve in it, which will not work with a hydro. you need a straight suction duty hydraulic filter
 

sblunier

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Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
You could have stopped at "beware the Fram choice".........I have never seen a Fram oil filter cut apart that came even close to impressing me.......Kraig and Travis's results in the link indicate that plain as day.
 

mfrade

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Mike Frade
Wasn't me Doug, and I'm usually searching the list..

Harry - thanks for the update. I'm curious to your opinion and evaluation of the vibration levels.
 

ekincaid

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Ethan Kincaid
So I'm closer to having a complete working 1450 I got neutral reset the other night only to find out that the dampener spring at the hydro had given up the ghost "hence the major hydro creep issue I was having"my cub supplier here had them in stock along with the guide pins I got those changed out tonight did some painting on the tractor and put the fender assembly put back on so all in all I thing tonight was very productive,now on to the charging issue hopefully it's not the stator pull the engine out again doesn't sound like fun to me
 

ekincaid

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Ethan Kincaid
Ok I'll break the ice....is there a quick test for the charging system in the q/ls other than the service manual tests or is there something simple I may be over looking
 

etopel

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Ed Topel
The service manual tests are pretty simple. A few simple checks with a meter will tell you if it's a stator or rectifier problem.
 

ekincaid

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Ethan Kincaid
Ed thank you I wasn't sure if there wasn't some old timers trick that I don't know about...I'm a knuckle buster I hate electrical problems
 

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