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Archive through September 06, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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thoffman

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Tom Hoffman
DT,
I don't know the answer to that ? but that's why pullers don't like to use wheel weights.
 
Jeremiah - "next week at the earliest"!!!!!! Dang, you must have your priorities mixed up between your wife and your CC's. But still, hope you have a good time, and if by chance you don't, well when you get back you will have a good time with the gracious assistance of that other Forum member.
 
Don T - I've ran both fluid and wheel weights and can't tell any difference between the two for hp loss. I prefer wheel weights because fluid filled tires are a pain in the arse to patch if you get a thorn in the back 40 and the wheels are easier to handle when you pull the weights and then the wheel. Sort of like (for me) it's easier to handle the IH decks since the subframe is a separate assembly. The load I have to wrestle is half-ish of the total and my back like this.

Quick question - probably a ultra stupid question...

Anyone swapped tranny's from hydro to gear drive or vice-versa in either a NF or WF tractor?
 
TOM H. - Actually, there's a couple guys pulling in the NTPA now that do use wheel weights on the rear wheels of their pulling tractors. It's part of their "Movable weight". It's not like 20-30 yrs ago where they have a dozen 150# weights added to each rear wheel to weight up to heavier classes, there's maybe one small 80# weight per rear wheel.

But Don's talking about fluid, totally different animal than cast wheel weights. Cast wheel weights TURN with the tire/wheel, Fluid does NOT. A fluid filled tire may pull slightly harder than a same size tire/wheel with cast iron weights added to equal the same weight as the fluid filled tire but the force required to turn the wheel/tire with fluid is so minutely greater than the force required to turn the wheel/tire with cast weights added I have NO IDEA how you could measure it accurately.

Best Idea I have is maybe roll one of the fluid filled tires down a long gradual hill and see how far it goes, then roll a wheel/tire with cast weights added to equal the same weight down the same hill and see which goes farther & faster.

Having done ALL Kinds of road work with tractors in hills pulling heavy loads, I really never noticed any difference in hill climbing ability with or without fluid as far as maintaining speed on hard surfaces. A tractor without weight, compared to a tractor with cast iron weight, verses liquid ballast weight. Now get that tractor off onto soft dirt, add in a little moisture in the dirt, AKA MUD, and the tractor without weight will spin out if the load is heavy enough and hill steep enough, the tractor with cast weights added will climb much better, and I'd say the tractor with fluid weight would climb even better still.

You'd have to keep the weights similar between the cast weights and fluid weights. Take my Super H for example, it had 500# of fluid per rear tire, 1000# total. Years ago I also ran one 150# wheel weight per rear wheel and then added a second weight per wheel when I started pushing snow with it. So 600# of iron vs 1000# of fluid. To get back the 1000# of fluid I removed two yrs ago would require SIX more wheel weights, plus a 100# suitcase weight hung on the drawbar. I've seen a lot of H's with one and two weights per rear wheel, but NEVER one with FIVE per rear wheel.
 
Bill,

Why swap when used frames are so cheap and available?

Denny, Don, Tom,

You will NEVER notice any real difference in fluid vs. cast iron, given the same amount of weight.

Heavy cast iron weights on wheels in a friction pulling situation (high speed, little bites) cause much higher risk of driveline damage due to rapid changes in traction and wheel speed....their rotational inertia makes them harder to spin up to speed and more likely to whipe out driveline parts when traction suddenly changes.

For anything most of us are doing with a GT, any type of weigth in any reasonable place/amount is acceptable PROVIDED you remember that with increased weight and traction you must also apply increased operator finesse on the controls to prevent damage. Weighted heavy with a rammy operator is what breaks things....smooth and fluid, not bang and crash!
 
OK!.....Which way is the correct reassembly here? This is from a 1200. The parts lookup shows it one way and the service manual shows it another!!

I kinda think it should be like this

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But I took another apart from a 1000 and it was put together like this one!
Can someone set me straioght here??
Does the teaser spring go in the cup betwen it and the T/O bearing??
Or does it go in the cup facing the pressure plate?

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Here’s a picture of my new to me Jiffy Balling mower. Thanks Kent for giving it up.

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I used to mow with an H Farmall with a semi-mounted mower. With a little practice you could make a “square” corner by spinning the steering wheel and hitting the right brake as soon as the rear wheel passed the edge of the unmowed grass at a corner. The only way to make a square corner with this thing is to stop and back up at the end of each cut. But the mower does a nice job. My wife made a video of me trying it out. I’ll post a link to the video when I get it to my son, and he gets it uploaded.

Does anyone know anything about a Jiffy Balling mower other than what’s in the sales literature? (I’ve read the history of the Jiffy Balling company.) When I got this one, the main drive pulley set about ¾” too far forward to line up with the PTO. It bolted right up to the tractor, but didn’t line up. Some previous owner had taken a torch to it and cut a rough one inch strip off the back, bottom part of the mount. I assume they’d planned to slide it back and drill new mounting holes in the frame of the tractor. But that meant I’d have to drill a new hole through the front grill housing as well as really close to the Frankenstein bolt mount. I elected to just cut off the top of the mount, move the bottom section back and reweld it in place. You can see the weld here:

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You might also be able to make out where I welded back a 1 inch strip on the bottom, left side of the mounting bracket where someone had torched out a section.

I thought these were only manufactured for the early model Cub Cadets, including the Original. Do you think it’s possible that this was made for an Original and you had to drill new mounting holes? I’d sure be interested if anyone knows anything about them.
 
Bill - buddy here took a 129 and put in a 16hp, with gear drive rearend to make a "168". not sure what all difficulties he had doing it.... can ask him and find out?
 
Bill, Dropping a 14 or 16 into a gear drive is a snap! <font size="-2">(And cool!</font>)
 
David S.-

The first pic is the correct order. The teaser spring goes up against the front of the TO bearing. I haven't checked this on the "new" parts look up but it use to be wrong and showed the cupped spacer against the bearing instead of the teaser.
 
Had a bad Cub day yesterday.

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Just got the motor buttoned up too, ready for shrouds. Wife is going to be super pissed about her tractor.
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WTF happened?! Did you try to jump a creek or something? Or forget to use proper tie downs on a trailer? Looks like it went for a serious roll to mess up that part of the engine tin.
 
Nope, parts were stored out of the way in the back of the barn hugged right up next to the wall. Dads two cows got out of there coral and trampled every thing in sight. I considered shooting both of them, personally.
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Wayne, Thanks for the verification. I l kinda thought that was the logical way it should go back together.

However, I still have an issue with it as the driveshaft will not stop spinning in neutral w/the clutch depressed. Bout the only way I can get it in gear is to idle it way down. Forget changing gears w/the throttle wide open like you would need to do countless times while pushing snow etc.

Are the service brakes supposed to adjust to the point where they act like a clutch brake when depressed or what?

Brian: put in my name for a rear 1/4....OK???
What a freaking mess! That's worse than all your hangers coming down right after you finish shooting the last qt of paint!!
 
Well on a positive note, the motor is done. Got the valve clearances with in spec then reassembled the springs and keepers, then I put the breather assemblies back in and put the heads on. Also put on the intake and carb right after I took this picture.

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DAVE S. - Sorry, no way for the service brakes, either internal or external to stop the transmission countershaft when in neutral like on Road-Ranger transmissions for shifting into gear.

I did make a "countershaft brake" for my #72 that worked really well. Many people thought it was a creeper because the lever to operate it stuck out of the creeper shift lever slot in the frame. There was a pair of holes in the sides of the frame directly opposite each other that I ran a piece of 3/8" threaded rod thru and attached hex nuts & lock washers to lock it into place and in the center was a small weldment that held a rubber pad against the underside of the driveshaft and the lever sticking thru the creeper shifter slot pivoted the rubber pad against the bottom of the driveshaft and stopped it. I still have it, and would use it but the new MWSC 4140 alloy steel driveshaft and extra length coupler get in the way so it wouldn't work right, the 1/4" grd 8 cap screws would hit the levers which would not be a good thing, but if I ever go back to a driveshaft design that allows the countershaft brake to work I will use it again.

Depress the clutch, pull the little brake lever back for a second and shift into gear and go. No waiting, no gear clashing. I got the idea from my International/FARMALL model H/4 service manual, International had a countershaft brake on the input shaft of the model I4, and I think it was an option on other models like the O/OS4, and maybe on the W4, but unfortunately never on the H.
 
David S,
If the driveshaft still spins with the clutch disengaged, the most probable cause is the engine is cocked or turned slightly sideways causing the driveshaft to bind in the bronze bushing at the rear of the engine that the shaft fits into. Loosen the engine mount bolts and reposition the engine, trying to line up the crank and driveshaft so it is a straight shot from crank to driveshaft, with no "kink" where the two come together. There is enough play in the engine mount holes that the engine can be moved around slightly to get everything in line. Clear as mud?????
 
HI, Everyone... I hope that it is okay to ask this... I have a chance to purchase an 18 Hp overhead valve Kohler engine with the one inch crankshaft. The owner thinks the key may be sheared. He said it just start popping and backfiring and then quit. It has the fuel pump and everything is there except the carburetor cover which he thinks he still has. It looks like it would be the same size hole pattern as the Kohler in Cub Cadets. Does anyone know if this engine would be a direct drop into a wide frame Cub Cadet or would I need to make some modifications? I know this may sound crazy however ... I am really tired from all the overtime and can't think clearly right now. He told me $50.00 and it is mine. It ran great until the above happened to it. THANK YOU for your replies... I'm going to bed. Tomorrow will be here quick enough.

Just remembered... I better mention that it is a single cylinder.
 
Project #2 cart done! Original wheels and tires are done just haven't swapped them back on yet. Decals are in the mail heading this way! Thanks Terry!


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