• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through October 24, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bjkohnert

Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2014
Messages
8
displayname
Brandon James Kohnert
Has anyone ever made a QA-42 housing from scratch? Mine is getting thin and would like to make one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Buy a used one and save a lot of time there are lots of them out there
 
I have a used one and that's what I'm running now for this season. Not into buying another just so it can be rebuilt in another 5-8 years only to have the parts really hard to come by then. If all else fails I'll toss the blade on her. But would rather build one myself.
 
Brandon - what are your steel fabrication capabilities, tools, etc.? I have a pretty complete home fab shop (plasma, mig, tig, chop saw, acetylene, BMFH's etc.) and I wouldn't even consider scratch building the housing for a QA-42 unless there were absolutely none available on the market. Buy a couple now, restore 'em and set 'em aside - you'll have enough for the next 20-30 years..
If you are determined, the first thing is to find a supplier to roll the steel - you give them the dimensions, they'll give you a basic rolled piece - I'd do it in at least .125 steel..

By the way, welcome to the forum - I'm down the state a little ways from you, but hang around "Lumber Town" quite a bit these days..
 
Thanks Gary. I have a full metal shop at work that I can cut, shear, roll just about anything. And if been thinking of making a dual stage QA-42. Even toyed with idea making the thrower hydraulic driven off the hydro of the trans cause mine is ported.
 
Brandon K. With using the ported hydro as a source to power your snowthrower's hydraulic motor.... I'd say, "No." You'd be using the charge pump for something it isn't intended to do. It isn't strong enough for such continuous operation. You'd need a dedicated hydraulic pump with a bigger reservoir to run the hydraulic motor on the pump. I'd suggest finding a good used two stage Craftsman snow blower and mount it on your Cub Cadet.
happy.gif
 
Art, do you have and can you post your most recent 169 data log?
 
Got rained out today, so no combining of soybeans today. I figured while it was fairly warm, I should get the blower installed on the 782. We all know it will be coming sooner than we want! Have a few questions about it, hopefully someone can set me straight?

Bought this model 450 this past summer. Was told it was installed on a 982, but I am thinking it might have been installed on it, but not work right? It is supposed to have "carriage bracket extensions" on it to be used on a "Super". It doesn't seem to have them? Notice in figure 12 it shows them on the ends of the idler bracket.
291365.jpg


Mine doesn't have them on it. It also states to be sure that the proper "lift link" be used for each tractor? Mine measures 11 3/4" long. Not the 12.91 inches like the manual states is supposed to be used in a "Super" set up?
291366.jpg


I am also wondering what kind of ground clearance there is on these when they are lifted up all the way? I don't have the correct hook up for my lift rod. I am guessing I will have to buy one of the pieces that Xtreme Motor Works or Charlie sell to put it below the floor board?
291367.jpg


I am also wondering about the clearance between the bottom of the grill housing and the pivot axle assembly. Is it supposed to fit that close to it? The manual also states that the "undercarriage bracket" needs to be installed with hex bolts. So do I need to drill the frame in the picture below where you see the red paint through the "pivot axle"? The piece is threaded or worn with thread marks (was too dark to tell for sure if it was threaded)? I can't imagine how they could thread the bolt out through these brackets from the inside out??
1a_scratchhead.gif


291368.jpg


Here is what my blower looks like now.

291369.jpg

291370.jpg
 
Also, do you guys wire the belt tensioner handle somehow to prevent it from tripping and letting the belt go loose? Its a simple set up, but does it work without fail? Can just see it getting caked up with snow and ice then letting go and be a bugger to get tightened up again without thawing it out?
 
Mike P.

I don't own a 450 but looking at the manual and your pictures it seems the extension brackets are for the super's because they sit higher. The only issue I can think of would be the thrower might not lower down far enough on a super without brackets.

I would think you need to get the thrower lift push rod to connect to the right mower deck lift arm of the rock shaft. If this lift rod was for a super it might be too long for a 782.

The 982 has a hole and a weld nut or press nut in the frame for the pivot axel bracket. The loads will be high in this area so the extra fastener is a good idea. You have a 982 right?

I wire tire the tensioner on my QA thrower .

Jim
 
I know everyone is getting ready for snow already but I'm still ironing out some tiller issues. I think I've learned quite a bit this year. I bought a mule drive for the tiller and straightened the pulleys to keep the belt lined up with the tiller and left the spring on. Bad idea... Wasted the belt Quick. I could not find an adjuster anywhere so I made one and put a spacer where the spring was. This setup works great. Don't use a spring adjuster for a tiller.
291378.jpg


291379.jpg


291380.jpg


And Thank You Nic B. for selling me the steering column, I cleaned it out put a new adjuster pin on it and a NICE bearing and its like I have power steering again with no tight spots. Works great.
 
Mike Patterson
I can add a few things about installing a 450 snow blower. Yes you must add a bolt where you say the red paint shows. the proper bolt has a tapered end that sits in the frame and the blower mounting bracket has threads on the outside that hold the pin in place. I found I needed to use bolts and nuts because there is so much play in all the pieces that you will get more lift if everything is tightly fastened. also never and I repeat never engage the PTO at a very fast engine speed . That will strip the 19 tooth spline that goes into the second stage blower at the back. the one end of the gear box has a 19 tooth spline and the back impeller has the female part that will strip all the teeth . You can ask Art A and my self we both btdt. but I did find a cheap repair for that. also never allow the blower to fall over center when it is down . if it does you will bend all kinds of parts when you try to lift the blower. btdt also.I did cheat the blower lift by add two bolts nut to the arms that give the lift where you lift arm attaches .adding the bolts there took out some slop and keep the blower from going over center. so it would not drop more than 2" below the tractor. Solved the over center issue and that also gave me more lift . well I think if you get about 6" you got about all you will get. those 450`s are a heavy blower and you will find when lifted you will need a bunch of weight to be able to back up. rear wheel weight is your friend , you can`t have to much weight. I will mod one of my 450`s to make it a 366 ,I think is the number that Matt G installed on his red tractor . I can see this will be the cure for the 450 I hope. I now have a cab with windshield wiper and doors to install and I have bought 3 led lights to install on the cab . two for the front and one for backing up. I will soon be installing the Cab and the blower and plan to post the mod in the proper area so Charlie will still talk to me . any other questions you have I might be able to shed some light . I can say when you get the 450 dialed in they eat snow . Art A had a video of his set up on a post here last year . 40 feet is easy with snow that is not to wet with rain .
Shift.gif
 
Keith Ostendorf

If you plan to use the tiller much I would get the pulleys for the tiller. They hare bigger and have a much heaver bearing and will last much longer that the ones designed for the mowed deck . I don`t think the mower deck puts as much strain on the pulley bearing as the tiller will .
 
Thanks Don, I'll find some this winter and use these for my mower deck mule drive.
 
Mike Patterson
Just one more thought on the belt tensioner spring. I never had a problem with it moving and allowing the belt to loose tension. Just remember the more lift you get puts more stretch on that spring to allow lift . also I found that some times if to much tension was applied to the belt the PTO would disengage and have to be applied again. ok done for now . enjoy your 450
 
Jim & Don,
I agree, I think that is what the "carriage bracket extensions" will do, allow the blower to "touch" the ground when used on a "super". This is what was confusing. Was supposed to be set up for a "Super" when I bought it. I don't think it was ever set up properly - must have been frustrating for the owner? Anyway, I am thinking I don't have to modify anything to make it work on my 782. Only thing I have to do is put the bolt in. Like Don mentioned, I will have to drill out the frame. Will have to look up what the bolt looks like and see what I can find around the shop to work. I agree that they are heavy blowers, dog on heavy. Certainly am glad I got a cart to put it on when not in use, makes moving in the shop easier! Not to self, build one for the QA42 dumb a$$!
wedgie.gif
 
Brandon K:
If you do the fab of a QA housing, for gosh sakes, take lots of pics! This is the kind of project we like..
greenthumb.gif
 
I'm interested in the 450 blower/782 combo also. I looked at one yesterday but after seeing the mounting bracket I know my 782 doesn't have holes in the frame. I was wondering if guys just drill the holes in the tractor and throw some bolts/nuts through them or do guys use a pin all the way through both sides?
I haven't taken possession of the thrower yet (as I wanted to find out how it is supposed to mount up).....is it worth the effort compared to a QA42A? I have a QA here I picked up in the spring (it was sold with a plow I was after) but haven't used it. It's in fair shape. Would an 86 have the cajones to run it in light snows(the 86 is my latest project), or should I get the 450 and sell the QA?
What all should I check on the 450? What extra pieces does it require (lift rod, belt, anything else?
 
I'll throw my 3 cents in here on this 450 off topic thing.
You guys are going to be disappointed in the performance of the blower trying to push it with only 17 horses.
They EAT power and torque and nothing less than 20 horses is going to do the blower justice, and is going to work the snot out of your 782.
 
Back
Top