I am now part of the wideframe hydro gang!149#494724 just came home! In great shape!
Wife found a flyer in a want ad board for a "free" 149 does not run. Free to good home! It has one now. First cost was taking the wife out to dinner for finding this one. Paint is in great shape lights work off of battery charger. Nicest cub I have and it doesn't run yet. Sure beats dragging home junk!
Now am wishing I had not tuned out all the newer cub stuff on here.
Digging through the stack of papers that came with it and found five pages from this forum from 1999. Funny to run across it in the pile.
Tedd....I put one of those Kohler V-Rods under the hood of my 782, and its rocks!!! VERY little "customizing" to make it fit. I even had someone ask me at PD if the engine was "stock" (they saw the muffler outlet) and I nicely replied "not exactly"......
The next 82 series I get (982) will eventually have a 27 HP V-Rod put in it.
For me, power is not a problem at plow day, traction usually is. Over centering the final drive in a trashy field can be pain too....
I bought a Nortech model 128 "Wedge-Screw" as an auction and I got the 8 HP B&S running and split some logs with it. This is similar to the "unicorn" wheel splitter for the Cub Cadet.
I took the splitter to a local show(Apple & arts Festival at Delmont, PA). An owner of a machine shop stopped by and asked me if I wanted the Wedge-screw he had made 10 years ago and the guy never picked up and gave it to me. Here is a scan of the "wedge-screw" I went and picked up yesterday.
You can see in the scan where the hardened tip comes off the steel body. You can see the one roll pin hole but there are 2 drilled through the 13/16" center shaft that goes to the back.
I am going to mount it to a PTO adapter and put it on my PTO Wheel adapter and try to simulate the frame they used on the Cub Cadet Unicorn.
The guy that made this said the broken one was aluminum with a hardened tip. He told me that the tip is a Rockwell 4140(what they harden car axles to) so I think it was off of the wheel unicorns. If any one has any more pictures or information on the Unicorn or Stickler(mentioned from the man from Nortech} please E-mail or post on the Forum. Thanks
Remember me asking the other day,
"How many ft. lb. torque does it take to twist off a stuck 3/8" grade 8 head bolt?"
I sprayed it with WD-40 Sunday and couldn't get it out with my impact wrench or torque wrench. Thanks for the suggestions to use PB, but this time I didn't need it and I can't buy it locally.
I read in the Kohler manual that 3/8"-16 Grade 8 bolts max torque is 50 ft. lb. So I set my big torque wrench on 40 lb just now and it turned right out for me after it broke loose.
For now I just added another head bolt washer and put the bolt back in after coating the threads with the copper anti-sieze compound. I'll take of the head next winter and change the head gasket.
Also just got thru straightening the plow point on my 12" plow I was using Saturday in the south end of the field. It's ok now!
Bryon Henningsen, glad you could use those tires and rims! They were just taking up space in my workshop.
I also bought another Cub! I bought this 149 from Charlie. I still need to go get it yet. Woohoo
I have an opportunity to purchase a hydraulic tiller off a simplicity. It is a sleeve hitch attatchment. Problem is I have a 682 and no rear Hydraulic connections. Is it possible to make this attachment work off the hydro drive pump? If so, what do I need to do this?
YOU BEAT ME TO IT STEVE! Everything I've ever read about torque wrenches EXCEPT the bending beam style say to ONLY use them to tighten bolts clockwise with them. I retorqued the headbolts on a K-241 & K-301 Sunday. Book says 420 inch pounds. Some of the bolts were erally loose! Some started turning at about 200 inch pounds.
Jonathan: I will only use it t split small logs to take to shows and won't do any splitting at shows. The Nortech splitter has a saftey and here is the qoute from an employee of Nortech;
"The switch on the log support bar is designed to cut off the engine when
the 1/4-20 shear pin breaks from excessive force between the support bar
and the screw. This is to prevent the machine from bending itself, and
prevent the machine from continuing to operate when excessive force is
Do not replace the 1/4-20 bolt with anything stronger than an ordinary soft
The base of the screw is cast iron, the replaceable tip is hardened steel.
Robert W. Marlow "
They do exert a lot of force and can be dangerous.
Don't tell anyone, but....
I just stuck a spare bulb in there for the picture, so I don't know if it's fair to say that it's got a new lease on it's vision. Kind'a like putting glasses on a blind guy!