• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through October 19, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bwittman

Well-known member
Joined
May 3, 2012
Messages
313
displayname
Brian Wittman
Harry,

I have enjoyed the "discussions" this past week. Now that I am back home, I am able to upload a picture of the hubcaps that I scored, as per your request.

Here they are!

247324.jpg


They are a little beat up and are showing some rust. I don't know if they will clean up with some rouge, or if they will need to be re-chromed. At first, I thought they were Stainless Steel, but now I see they aren't. I guess these are a project for a cold winter day. they are shiny enough to reflect my image, as I took the picture
blush.gif



The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison. GO Bison!
 
Charlie: After checking a few You-Tube videos showing a 100 and a 73 running Model 1 tillers, it appeared to me they were using the same mule drive I already have for my mower deck. Here's a pic of mine taken shortly after it was refurbished two years ago. Would the same mule drive also work for a Model 2 tiller?
247327.jpg
 
Gerry - Don't be trying to fool us cause some of us know. Your yellr engine is the closest to being the way IH did it. I think if you take a pic deadnuts level from the side you'll see the rubber fuel line runs slightly upward from the starting point at the tank and then a few inches before the curve downward to the carb there is a very very slight upward arc. Now, your black engine is certainly a retro fit, looks like an AQS converted to an AS, and the fuel line is even stretched or something. I might just have to get my 169 out of storage and snap a couple pics. And another thing, back in the old days BGC (Before the Great Crash) the Reverend used to run this site and he had a few annointed members. I was known as Elder Harry in those days - so when you say posts on here have a way of becoming the Gospel, you're RIGHT!!

Bill - now yours is close but I believe the fuel line has been replaced and is just slightly long. There should be a slight downward arc before the upward arc. I'm a little concerned with the line running on the outside of the throttle linkage connection to the governor arm as well. Normally the fuel line runs close to the head and then bends under the throttle/governor linkage to the connector on the carb (like Gerry's yell'r engine pic). Hold your horses on replacing your spark plug wire until we can get a pic of the way it's supposed to be routed since the plug wire does come in close contact with the fuel line and you also don't want a closed hood interfering either.

Come on guys, let have some pics of your rubber fuel lines. And I want to see some from some Quiet Line AQS engines as well. Could it be there is just a slight arc in the Quiet Lines set up?

Brian - fortunate your post started with a new page. I think the IH Police were mosying around the last page. Those caps already look prety clean in the pic and I'll bet they look pretty decent when they are installed. I don't think I'd worry about rechroming them, just try and do something to keep the rust off (maybe some wax). And the brighter you make them look the less likely the IH Police will think you might have stole them from the PO.
 
OK, I should have checked the tiller manual first. Pics of acceptable mule drives for tractors with various serial numbers are all provided there. Looks like I'd be good to go...
happy.gif
 
Bill - to late for an edit. I believe I'm wrong about the fuel line running underneath the throttle/governor linkage. We need some pics of the correct routing.
 
Harry: "Elder Harry" ?? more like Hytran Breath these days - you been drinkin' the stuff?? How dare you impugn the ancestry of that poor K301 - just because it's black?? No AQS there, it was one of the Kohler "spring specials" (1995) set up for the Cub, even had the SG bracket and basket/pulley on it, no rinky dink Bendix starter at all.... and the tank, if you'll look closely, is white, with the OEM fuel line, running all the way downhill (like this thread) to the carb. You apparently must think that the IH engineers were under the impression that s**t (stuff) runs UPHILL.. those guys were way too sharp for that. Elder Harry, my foot, more like "Hairbrain Harry" .... Lets go have a beer and forget the plumbing question - too complicated for 2:00 in the morning..
beer2.gif
 
Harry - here's as good a picture as I could get.. this is from the GSS-1464 Service manual..
247335.jpg

And I'm sure you think I've shot myself in the proverbial foot with the pic showing an "upward Curve", but propping the right side of my monitor up with less than three nickles makes that line level...
happy.gif
 
KEVIN CONWAY - re: full size car battery in a NF, I "THINK" the battery I use in my #72 is a group #26, there's also a #26R which is the same size but the pos & neg posts are reversed, Here's a battery group size chart I pulled off the 'Net; http://www.rtpnet.org/teaa/bcigroup.html

Measure the height, width, & depth available on your CC and take your tape measure to the local battery store and measure away. To fit the big battery you probably will have to modify or remove the cross brace in the hood. To fit the big battery AND big gas tank I had to remove the one in the 72. I use the repair clamp-on ends and use the factory battery leads with the ring terminals bolted to the clamp-on end bolts to convert from the battery posts to the factory battery leads. They also make tapping power to run my 12V sprayer a snap too, I just use the other bolts on the clamps for the sprayer leads.

Back in Jan, 1980 when I bought my #72 very well used it came with a dead battery, Dad gave me the old battery out of his '78 Ford Fiesta which fit perfectly with NO changes to the battery box. The #70 Dad did rework the battery box, and it has an even larger battery in it, think it's the same size as ALL full size Ford cars/trucks use, and they're available up to 850 or 1000 CCA.

HARRY - Yes, a full gas tank puts more pressure on the gas at the bottom of the tank, the fuel lines, the main fuel float valve. But while you're out taking pic's of your 169, take the carb apart and look how small the flow orfice is in the main fuel float valve. It's WAY less than 1/16th inch diameter. The gas experiences the same effect water does in a water tower over 100 feet in the air, but in the case of a CC gas tank, the difference in "Head Pressure" is maybe six inches.

The idea a CC/Kohler gas line "HAS" to run uphill is crazy, maybe Kohler/IH did it that way but it's not required, like I said in my last post, it will hold gas in the fuel line and not let it drain down to the carb, but as long as gas is available in the tank, gas will still flow to the carb. Probably a better explaination is that the automatic cut-off machine for the rubber or metal fuel lines had poor dimensional repeatability, so to prevent short fuel lines the supplier made them all slightly longer than needed. Many of the co's I've worked for have had these cut-off machines and they typically can't hold lengths closer than +/- 1/4", but they cut REALLY fast. Plus a longer fuel line allows for the lines to be trimmed, because the ends always deteriorate faster than the middles. And when removing fuel lines for service to the filter or carb, it's often better to cut the fuel line off the hose barb than to try to pry it off, and with the longer fuel line you dont have to replace the line because it's too short.

Plus I highly recommend using SS worm gear hose clamps instead of the little round wire clips or clamps, MUCH less chance of leakage, or a fuel line coming off and pouring raw gas on a hot and running Kohler. I see too many of these old CC's burned up from engine fires which normally start with gas leaks.

And YES WAYNE, a CC will run with the stock fuel lines/filters, etc., but they'll run just as fine and longer between carb cleanings with a better fuel system including additional fuel filtering. The old 5 quart tank & filter I had on the 72 ran for around 20 yrs with only ONE fuel filter cleaning because of water plugging the filter one afternoon while mowing. Tractor ran fine until I was about half done, then stopped just like it ran out of gas, and with the clear glass filter I could see I had plenty of something still in the tank. Turned out it was dirty water filtered out of the gas, shut the fuel off, disconnected the fuel line up stream from the filter, tilted the filter down to drain it out, disassembled the filter, flushed it with gas, reassembled and ran the tractor for another several years till I pulled the engine to install the K321.
 
Hey can anyone help me on the lift handle button for my 104 ? I lost the top of the button but when I started looking at the replacement ones it looks like the top of the button broken off ? Is this true its one big piece or is there a top an bottom part ?
 
AMY - Your 104 should be the same as my #72. The lift lever inner rod is two pieces. The long rod with about a 75 degree bend at the bottom to engage the notches in the lift level quadrant inside the frame of your 104, and the top portion which screws onto the long rod. Between the two pieces is a compression spring and a flat washer to push the inner rod up so the bottom engages the notches in the quadrant. There's also a "Float Button" that's pressed into the front side of your lift lever to lock the inner rod down with your finger so attachments can float over uneven ground.

I'm pretty sure the sponsors above still have the parts for the lift levers, the float button, and the top button, the spring & flat washer. But you have to "MAKE" your own lower long rod. And I found out the hard way 10 yrs ago that you can't push the long lower rod UP from the bottom, the rock shaft is in the way and bends the rod so it sticks.

Hopefully all you need is the new spring, flat washer, and top button. Hopefully your float button & lower rod are still O-K. It's pretty easy to replace the spring, washer, & top button, just drop the flat washer down into the lift lever over the inner rod, drop the sping in also over the inner rod, then spin the top button onto the inner rod. There's even a chance your spring & flat washer are still inside the lift lever, then all you'll need is the new top button. Shine a flash light down the top of the lift lever, maybe poke around with a screw driver or ??? and see if the spring is still there.

I broke the threaded top off my lower rod by accident years ago and became quite familiar with the lift lever for a week or so.
 
Thanks Dennis! I need a new battery before the snow falls. I'll have to do some measuring!
 
By thad bostwick (Tbostwick) on Thursday, October 18, 2012 - 09:19 pm:

Anyone know best way to replace the lift handle release button (top buttton)? Mine broke off and I can't get the remaining threaded piece off the inter rod.

By Frank
happy.gif
Is this an epidemic? I've seen that top button come unscrewed (twice-on 2 different 123's) but those don't have the "grooved" button the newer ones have. Can those buttons break where they're grooved?
1a_scratchhead.gif
 
Ty Dennis,ill look an see if I can find the top part...the spring part works if I use a screw driver to push it down...I need the top part for the thumb...
 
I had an interesting experience yesterday working on the front axle of a 149. I did the squeeze thing and got it a tad too tight. After a couple of blows from a BFH the axle squeezed in with zero play. It's the tightest I've ever gotten one to date and I'm assuming as tight as a new one was. I'm looking forward to seeing how it does with everything all connected and rolling. I also found both spindles needed attention and one was right before having the spacer totally frozen from rust. I had to drive it out but after a good cleaning and some fresh grease it's working like new as well. I cleaned everything well from the steering wheel to the front spindles. This is a 149 roller that I just got and looks like it's never been in any weather. I had no reason to think the front spindles were that close to being problematic but after deciding to tighten up the axle play I sort of stumbled across the problem. The axle was so dirty from excess grease too so I decided to just remove it, clean it, and do the squeeze thing. I would suggest checking the spindles on any newly acquired cub even if they seem to work ok. The right one did have a tad of play which lead me to believe it needed the attention it got. The engine that came with this tractor has a hole about the size of a 50 cent piece in the bore. Everything else was fine so it's just a shame the block is toast. I did get a good K-321 with the tractor but it is from an OT apparently and is a later QL type.

I also removed the hydraulic lever and cleaned and painted the inner works that connect it to the spool valve. The little lever under the dash had a large pin connecting it to the lever shaft and it was preventing things from working smoothly by scraping the inside of the dash. The little lever and the connector always seem to be rusty and I hate rust. It's another part that never saw paint from the factory.

This is going to be one nice 149 once I get her finished. I even took apart and cleaned the hood, headlight assembly, and painted the nose because there were a couple of scratches on the leading edge. The hood itself doesn't even need paint. The main reason I ended up doing that was I found the hood hinge rusted and that wasn't going to remain.

I guess I ought to expose the pump/trunion but for once I plan to just get it going with another correct engine I have here and take it from there. I also need it in the garden.

I guess I felt like rambling a little this am.
 
Dennis:
In 27 years, I've put three batteries in the 129 - I think the SG must be gentle on them ....
As far as inline filters -two things:
1: The Club Car cart I just got comes from the factory with TWO inline filters, one between the tank and the gas pump (pulse, crankcase pressure activated ) and a second between the pump and the motor)and they are two different part numbers... When I took the carb apart to troubleshoot the crankcase full of gas (still a mystery), the bowl was spick and span and the cart is 14 years old..
2: On the V-Twin Cushman, the gravity feed filter I used would not flow in the spring until I'd blown air through it - only explanation is something deteriorating from the gas and putting a film over the nylon mesh in the carb. I bought a two piece screw together chrome one this summer with a bronze filter and replaced the problematic one. We'll see WTF happens next spring....
 
FRANK - The top button won't break, well, maybe somebody could, but with it just threaded on it can come off. The lower rod is IIRC 5/16", and threaded at the top to accept the top button, which puts all kinds of stress risers in the small long lower rod, which is where my lift lever rod broke.

One of the lift arms the mower, etc hooks to the rockshaft on broke off right at the end of the heat effected zone from the original welding @ IH LVL years ago. While I was weld repairing it I slid the rockshaft/lift lever assembly around on my welding table and broke the top off the threaded rod. Quick check of my parts books showed the rod "Not Serviced Separately, Buy whole rockshaft assembly". Well THAT wasn't happening. Quick trip to the hardware store for the 5/16" rod, and a case of beer from the liquor store next door, ran home, pulled the old parts out and apart, and made up the new lower rod, beat it into the lift lever and it still didn't work, pulled it out again, straightened the rod all out, slid it down in the tube from the top, fired up the torch, bent the end so it would engage the quadrant, dropped the flat washer & spring in the lever and screwed the old button back on.

The same problem happened to the prior owner of my old 129 and I fixed it too, with a new inner rod from my local CC dealer, special ordered of course. I still have the sketch of that rod, a two-piece welded assembly out in the shop, a 20-something inch long piece of 5/16" rod welded to an inch of 3/8" rod at a 75 degree angle, and an inch of 5/16" NC threads at the top of the smaller diameter longer rod. I seem to remember the new rod cost over $40 back in 1990. Hence, the sketch in case I ever needed another one. The assembly of the WF lift levers is similar but different since you can remove the lever from the rockshaft to install the inner rod from the bottom.

AMY - Sounds like all you need is the top button then! I always put a few drops of oil down that lift lever every year or so, especially important if your Cubbie sleeps outside in the weather.
 
I know you guys can help. Early this year I picked up a CC1650. After getting the engine running(bad knock), I tested the lift, worked fine. I tore the tractor down to rebuild. My problen is I can't remove the bracket from the cylinder! Used "PB Blaster" for weeks, no help. Soaked it in electrolysis tank for about a week, no help. Unable to get it to move with vice and pipe wrench. Hammer and brass drift no help. Thought to desassemble cylinder and use some heat but I can't get the end of cylinder off!
Charlie was here!
247341.jpg

Charlie was here!
247342.jpg

Charlie was here!
247343.jpg
 
Ya blew it, Jim. Remember: Hit ENTER after each pic.
bash.gif

(You've still got time to EDIT).
happy.gif
 
Thanks Frank, it's a lesson well learned. I'll try and remember. (70 years is a long time!)
HOW?
 
Back
Top