Archive through October 16, 2014

[tflynn]

I'm in the process of making my first 125 prettier.
I pulled the rear axles and put new seals on them and put a new gasket on the rear plate, added new fluid and oil filter. Tightened up the steering sector and replaced the left spindle and steering arm. Cleaned the carb and freshened up the points. Pressure washed the whole thing and did a quick rattle can paint job (carefully did the masking though). Looks pretty good ten feet away.
I've been trying to find 10W oil for the hydraulic lift but to no avail...... what should I use? I put the snow blower, chains and weights (three 45 pound barbell weights), and then took it off to make that look prettier too. Will service it before putting it back on.

 

[digger]

Tom F.

One word - HYTRAN

 

[wdrhoades]

I'm new to the forum and find it very useful . I have a cub 129 and am trying to tear down the k301 to replace the worn crank shaft. I have seen many sites that show how to remove the front pto but I am having problems with the rear drive shaft pulley cup. I removed the nut on the end of the shaft but not sure how the pulley comes off to be able to remove the engine cover and screen.I have the kohler service manual but it does not show the rear pulley assembly . Anyone have some insight on this

 

[dkirk]

I'm really sorry to learn of Bryan McMeen's death. As an early administrator on this forum, he got the reputation of "ruling with an iron hand". After meeting him in person, I quickly learned that he was one of the kindest and most giving persons you could ever know. He was a genuine Cub Cadet enthusiast, a good guy, and I will miss him as a friend.

 

[wshytle]

William R.-

There's a guide pin that goes in the back of the aluminum coupler (pulley) and into the flywheel. I bet it's rusted and grabbing. It has to be removed because the screen is mounted to this coupler and is on the outside of the flywheel housing. Then the housing itself can be removed from over the flywheel.

 

[jstertz]

William R--Welcome to the forum. Great community of guys here that can advise you on just about every detail of your Cub. For starters, be sure to look at the FAQs at the top of this page and follow the link to Charlies FAQ's page. You'd be amazed how many of your questions will be answered before you even ask them. But if you don't find it there, ask it here and likely someone has an answer for you!

 

[tflynn]

Charlie,
I got the Cub Cadet Hydrostatic oil from my local dealer and I don't believe it says HYTRAN on it but does state it's for the Hydrostatic drive. Sooooooo is this also to be used in the Hydralic lift? Also what engine oil should I be using this winter when using the Snow Blower? Here in southern Minnesota when it snows the temperature ranges from 32 down to 0. I just changed oil and added 10W 40

 

[jchamberlin]

Tom: I think you may be changing oil again.

When I lived in northern Illinois the smart ones among us changed the 10W-40 out for 10W-30 in the winter time to help with starting our car engines. I wasn't running Cubs then.
The fact that you're running a hydrostatic complicates matters. I know that several people who run Cub Cadets in northern climes use magnetic heaters to keep their transmission oil warm to help overcome the hydo's drag on starting.

Manual for the 1x2/3 series says . . . 10W if your anticipated LOWEST temperature is 0 degrees Fahrenheit; if you anticipate temperatures colder than that, drop to 5W weight . . .

By the time the 1x8/9 Manual came out the Lubrication Table had been updated with the words, "Do not substitute 10W-30 or 10W-40" for the 30W recommended for above 32 degrees Fahrenheit.

I'm sure the manual for the 1x4/5 series has similar recommendations.

Edit: I would be interested in what Jim Diederich --the man formerly employed by Kohler-- has to say on this topic.

 

[digger]

Tom F.
As long as it has this part number on it, your good to go.

 

[jpatchett]

Tom F.

Leave the 10w-40 in the engine, this is a good choice all year around where you live. Today's multi-grade oils are better now than when IH made it’s recommendations, not that they were bad oils. The 10w-xx oils have the same viscosity at low temperatures and 10w-40 is better than 10w-30 at high temperature. Multi-grades have better overall performance regarding viscosity changes due to temperature. A 10w-xx oil is better at low temps than a straight 10w. The only important decision to make these days is synthetic or not.
Jim