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Archive through October 12, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Found time to tear into the over heating problem I have been haveing with my 102.
Removed the right side inspection cover from the engine and was supprised to find nothing in the fins of the jug, and the fan blades on the flywheel looked nice and clean also. Next I ran some wire through the fins of the head and again nothing. SO I decided to check the carb to see how it was set, well wouldn't you know it the factory setting where still inplace on this new replacement carb. They where set good enough ti run the engine but where set way lean, I adjusted the low and high speed jets to where the engine ran smooth, than turned them out another 1/4 to 1/2 turn so as not to have a lean mixture. Hopefully this will solve the over heating problem, if not I will have to dig into the engine a little deaper, like maybe remove the head and check for carbon build up.
 
All,
Can anyone give me some tips on removing the front tires from the wheels? I've got to close up some rust holes.

(Cub 126: 16.5 x 6.5 - 8 tubeless)

Thanks, Dave
 
Dave>
If you own a high lift jack and a pickup its real easy.
Set tire on ground under front bumber of truck, set jack on tire next to rim, put jack under front bumber and raise jack until tire bead break loose on tire, flip tire over and repeat.

(Message edited by lbuttke on October 13, 2004)
 
Daivid S,
If your wheels are that bad, you might want to spring for some that are not so bad. There's sponsors above that sell wheels cheap cheap.

To get the tires off, take some long screw drivers or pry bars and a BFH.
 
thanks for the tire pics, i thought about narrowing the fender/tool box area, but then theres still the issue of hooking up the brakes, as poor as they are they are something you need on a gear drive, hydralics brakes would be cool but i dont really want to invest that much time or money right now, did IH use this size tire on any X82 series?
 
Ok, I'm lazy this morning,
What are the differences in the gear ratios in between the tiller and snow thrower gear boxes?
I'm wondering if the gears from throwers could be switched to a tiller gear box and visa versa.
 
On another subject,
67 participants
46 Plowing, 2 Selling, and 15 Spectators
19 John Deere tractors, 57 Cub Cadet tractors, 7 Other tractors

Also! We need more door prizes, so if anyone would like to donate something or know of some one that would, please feel free to contact, Art, Steve, or me to make arrangements to get them to PD on time. EVERYBODY LIKES TO WIN SOMETHING YA KNOW!!!!!!!
 
Just curious.... The bolts with the SW markings on our cubs... Does anyone know the company that makes them and if they are available from any case IH dealer?

TIA!

Jim
 
Jim S. -

SW???

CORRECT bolts were stamped <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> (obvious) or WP (West Pullman, an <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> factory). Ergo, <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> made them. No, they're not made anymore.
 
Today while at my local Cadet dealer to get HyTran, etc... I mentioned that this was for my latest 149. The saleswomen replied that I should have been there last week as a guy stopped by to put a note on the shop's bulletin board offering his 129 with utility trailer, mower deck, and snow thrower. He was asking $150. A customer standing at the counter spoke right up and said "Sold". Sounds like he got a bargain, and that bargains are still out there.
 
On my post from yesterday...Can anyone tell for sure what the headlight panel I posted goes to??
Dean
 
Jim-
Depending on what you're looking for some small local dealers still have some, I know mine does in a few sizes yet. I've also had re-plated IH and WP bolts, often times combines from x15 series up through the last IH Axial-Flows are a great source for WP stamped bolts, and some IH stamped carriage bolts.


Iron Skillet crowd-
I'm assuming 6:30's the time?
 
Digger: The Box, gear on the snow blower and tiller carry the same number. on the tiller the driven gear is 20 teeth and the drive gear is 30 teeth. I was told the snowblower is 2/1 ratio but the CPE-2 dosen't give the number of teeth. There is also a right angle gear box that is used on the 800 that has a 1/1 ratio which I can't find in the CPE-2 but I have one of them.
 
Hello everyone:
I have a 129 hydro and I am putting in a used hydraulic system. Before I install it I want to replace the seals in the pump. The manual does not give the steps to install the trunnion shaft seal or the imput shaft. Would someone give me the precedure. The manual gives a total tear down but I don't want to do anymore than I have to.
Thanks for the help
Earl
 
<font size="+2">PLOW DAY UPDATE</font>

Current attendance stats:

71 participants
49 Plowing, 3 Selling, and 15 Spectators
21 John Deere tractors, 63 Cub Cadet tractors, 7 Other tractors

As Plow Day is only a week away, please take the time to REGISTER if you haven't already, this helps us plan.

Please review the Web Site http://home.mchsi.com/~digger/PD8/plowday8.html and make sure you have read the RULES and understand all of the directions, etc. It would be a good idea to print the site layout information and maps (have them with you) to make parking/traffic easier to deal with. Please remember to drive and park in the designated areas, and to park as neatly and tight as possible to leave room for everyone. Spectators only may choose to park in the church lot just west of the PD site to help free up room for trailers.

There will be no "pre-plowing" on Friday night as there has been in previous years (only "opening up" by the event hosts), but you are free to drop off your trailer if you wish Friday evening.

Plowing conditions are looking good...we havebeen getting slow steady rain this week which should help loosen up the soil. The bean stubble isn't too bad and the straw is spread fairly well. Remember to watch the weather and this site on Friday for the final call on the weather/event status (decision by 5-7pm Friday).

Raffle (100% toward local 4H club)

1 NIB Brinly sleeve hitch cultivator
1 NIB Brinly sleeve hitch disk

Current door prize listing (in no particular order or quantity)

2 - Fast Orange hand cleaner
WFM hats and T-shirts
10pr leather gloves
floor jack
IH service manuals
IH books
Kohler 1/25 scale semi
Cub Cadet hydro fluid change kit
6 - Marvel Mystery Oil
2 - PB Blaster
2 - Cub Cadet 1/64th semi trucks
2 Swiss Army Knives
tape measure
Craftsman 6pt deep metric socket set
Crescent Wrench "Wide Mouth" wrench set
Channel Lock slip joint pliers
Vice-Grip pliers
Misc Craftsman tools

Looking forward to a great time!!!!
 
Earl L.
Replacing all of the seals in the hydro is pretty much a complete tear down. I would recommend you keep everything as clean as you can. Build the wood stand that the manual recommends, and follow the manual, paying close attention to the part that says when you remove the front part of the hydro that the plates on the pump and the motor may fall out and can be damaged. There is pressure on the pump and motor when you remove the bolts. When you put it back together you will feel a resistance when you put the front part of the hydro back on. Keep track of the parts and do not mix up the plates on the pump and the motor. Keep it CLEAN, I keep a spray can full of hydro fluid and lubricate all parts when re-assembling.

You have done the right thing in purchasing the manual, read it and if you have questions ask and somebody will chime in with the answers. We all had to start somewhere and are willing to pass on any info we have, but you will have to do your share.
 

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