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Archive through October 12, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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bmcmeen

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2002
Messages
2,106
displayname
Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Rick M. -

Well, in a pinch you can always use the OLD parts list and let them find the new part numbers for them
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http://www.mcmeen.net/CubCadet/K161%20Parts%20List%20IHC-1014240-R1.pdf
 
Rick M.........The "rear" seal (pto side) is KH-X-583-2. The front seal (flywheel side) is KH-X-583-1. Total cost for both is less than $ 10. Offer to install for free in the Petro parking lot still stands if you buy it from C&G. I'll have Dunham hold the flashlight......
 
LOL! Yeah, the wife gets on the phone at lunch and in 10 minutes she's got part #'s and where to get them.
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Bring 'em with Kupdike (Cupcake? ;))
 
Tedd -

What key would those minuets be in?
lol.gif
 
Hi all,
I'm new on this forum, been reading all the good stuff that's on here, thought I mite as well join.
 
The pin connecting the pump shaft to the engine broke. Only half the pin broke. I am trying to push it out the other side but it does not budge. Any tips or suggestions on how to push it out?
 
Apostle Ken:

Wow! another low s/n has been uncovered. I know it's not for sale, but if it's going to be at plow day I'll make the trip out there with #518 in tow just to keep it company.
 
Kraig
thanks for the wealth of info on iso mounts you so promptly provided
I hope to take things apart before too long and will post results (good or bad)
Alan
 
David S,
They can be a PITA, but if you soak it good with PB Blaster or Kroil for a day or 2, then line the pin hole back up and take a good pin punch, it should come out, It may take some time and a BFH, but it will come out, Just be careful to hit only the punch and start by tapping on it, then try a little harder hit! Patience is the key Grasshopper.
 
David- You'll have best chance of driving the remains out if you unbolt the rest of the driveshaft from the rag-joint, and placing it in V-blocks. If you don't have V-blocks, cut a 1/4" notch down a 24" piece of 4x4 lumber. That'll keep it from jumping all over your workbench when you take the pin-punch and BFH to task.
 
Brian C... does that lift rod for your blade mea. 28.5" center to center?
I need to make one for my 42" blade, will a 28.5" lift rod work on my narrow frame as well?

(Message edited by sleggett on October 12, 2004)
 
169 lives again!!!!!! Balanced engine parts are installed and it's running. It got too late to tune/test it (don't want to PO the neighbors as they all have little kids).

I had a pretty good night, 3-1/2 hours from crank/rod/piston laying on the bench, to running tractor......and I had to remove a broken off bolt (3/8" that twisted off at 35 lbft on the torque wrench.....crappy Kohler bolt)


BTW, plow day site is getting some much needed rain today and probably tomorrow...good for us!!!!!


and...

PSA, make sure you call your state's "one call" locate center before you dig. I got called out to a job today where a septic contractor dug-in to the side of a 16" steel natural gas main running at 565 psig....dented the pi$$ out of it, but VERY luckily didn't tear a hole in it.....BIG BIG OUCH if that happpened!!!!!!
 
Well, got a bit of bad news for me... The leaky crank seal is in fact on the flywheel end.

Took a bit of wiping it down real good and then riding around for a few minutes and watching where the oil was coming from.

I'm going to bring her with anyway and Ken, please do bring the seals. If I can find someone who's willing to work with me to replace them*, cool! If not, I'll have the parts and will drop it off somewhere to get done after Plow Day.

*My mechanical ability stops at engines.
 
For those looking for lift rod measurements, you could always make an adjustable lift rod. This version was designed using some of Steve B's Ramming Speed<sup>©</sup> lift rod details.
22147.jpg


Or you could use this other version.

22148.jpg
 

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