John-If what Harry says is true about the rods being the same for the thrower and blade ( and I'm sure he is) my rod for the thrower on my 1250 is 27" center to center on the bends.
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Archive through October 09, 2015
- Thread starter danderson
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
My sincere apologies to Jeff for mis-typing his name. I really do appreciate Jeff and Wayne's help with this drive shaft problem. I have not removed the shaft yet but plan to do so today after I smoke up some chicken Hope the rain stays away today.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
John Lazar - I'm not sure I'm the best, but I do try hard
Doug Anderson - I try never to tell an un-truth but occasionally slip up. Your lift rod is probably 27" center to center because it's got a slight bow from being used, which also keeps it clear of the side panel on your 1250.
When I used my 42 and 54 blades, and my QA42A with my 1450 I got fed up with trying to figure out what was the best length for the rod and I didn't want to have to have a specific rod for each one - SO I met up with my machinist friend and we cut a rod and threaded it and added a turn-buckle. That way I could adjust it to what ever max height I wanted. You still have to be careful you don't raise the QA42A so much that you bang the chute against the upper grill housing nose, and if you're using the blade in a raised position to push snow piles the blade will tend to lift up as you push and can hit front parts of the tractor.
Now that's about a nickels worth of info.
Doug Anderson - I try never to tell an un-truth but occasionally slip up. Your lift rod is probably 27" center to center because it's got a slight bow from being used, which also keeps it clear of the side panel on your 1250.
When I used my 42 and 54 blades, and my QA42A with my 1450 I got fed up with trying to figure out what was the best length for the rod and I didn't want to have to have a specific rod for each one - SO I met up with my machinist friend and we cut a rod and threaded it and added a turn-buckle. That way I could adjust it to what ever max height I wanted. You still have to be careful you don't raise the QA42A so much that you bang the chute against the upper grill housing nose, and if you're using the blade in a raised position to push snow piles the blade will tend to lift up as you push and can hit front parts of the tractor.
Now that's about a nickels worth of info.
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Harry-Just so you know I was saying you were correct. 27 center to center is 27.5 overall.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
........AND......over application of Blunier Ramming Speed (TM) will result in a shorter rod with a pronounced bow in it!!!
1/2" Black pipe with 1/2" round bar welded into the ends makes a much better loft rod for both blades and throwers.
1/2" Black pipe with 1/2" round bar welded into the ends makes a much better loft rod for both blades and throwers.
hydroharry
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Doug Anderson - the measurements I mentioned were also center to center but I'm still guessing yours has a slight bow, or the side panel of your 1250 has the infamous paint rub marks and some slight rusting, or the lift rod bracket mounted to the top of your blade A-frame is slightly pulled to the side to keep the rod off the side panel. I remember now going to my local Cub dealer when I first had the question of how long was the correct length rod. He went in the back and came out with 3 rods and said which do I want - a 32, 30 or 26. The only way he would know the correct one was to order it. Needless to say I didn't order or buy one. (By the way CC Specialties lists the lengths of their rods on their parts list)
I have a thrower and no rub marks. It clears by a bit. My son has my blade and I haven't used it in a while but I don't remember it rubbing. That rod might have a bow in it.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Hey everybody,
Trying to get this EZ-rake mounted to my 782. The original mounting brackets were really mangled and have been modified at some point, so I cut all of that off and I'm welding on a new mount that will attach to the lower 3-point bracket. It seems to me like the muffler is really close to the rear tire and fender. Anybody have one of these and have some pics of how close it is to the tractor when mounted? Thanks!
Trying to get this EZ-rake mounted to my 782. The original mounting brackets were really mangled and have been modified at some point, so I cut all of that off and I'm welding on a new mount that will attach to the lower 3-point bracket. It seems to me like the muffler is really close to the rear tire and fender. Anybody have one of these and have some pics of how close it is to the tractor when mounted? Thanks!
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J
jclazar
Guest
Doug Anderson- I appreciate your points of measure. I measured from hole to hole with the rod being removed. I had just got the 1450 on the planks, and it was about time to head in to work. I'm going to measure "bend-to-bend" while the tractor is on said planks, and blade on the garage floor.
Now that I think about it, your 1250 usually came equipped with manual lift. That being said, I wonder if the 1450 lift mechanism makes a difference. Seems like I was getting about a 29" distance the way my tractor is set up for measurement.
Hopefully in the morning I can tinker with this for a spell!
Thank you again fellow enthusiasts!
Now that I think about it, your 1250 usually came equipped with manual lift. That being said, I wonder if the 1450 lift mechanism makes a difference. Seems like I was getting about a 29" distance the way my tractor is set up for measurement.
Hopefully in the morning I can tinker with this for a spell!
Thank you again fellow enthusiasts!
John- My 1250 has a hydraulic lift off of a 1650. When I put it on I don't remember changing anything where the rod attachment was concerned.
John-Went out to look at mine. Of course I changed out rod hookups because I removed the manual lift handle and installed the lever for the hydraulic. I used the manual and hydraulic lifts with the blade and the same rod. Worked with both setups.
Hi Everyone,
Back a couple months ago I was asking questions about my loader which would not lift if anything was in the bucket. It would only move empty even then slowly.
The end result was the pressure relief valve was the problem.
I posted in the sandbox the steps I took to resolve the problem. Here is a sneak peek.
Regards, Rich W.
Back a couple months ago I was asking questions about my loader which would not lift if anything was in the bucket. It would only move empty even then slowly.
The end result was the pressure relief valve was the problem.
I posted in the sandbox the steps I took to resolve the problem. Here is a sneak peek.
Regards, Rich W.
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Hey, boys I almost stepped in it big time yesterday..I had plans of going and looking at the QA42A snowthrower after work..As I was finishing submitting my last parts order for the day, I happened to recall the date 10-10. My wife of 35yrs birthdate and DAY....So I call the nice elderly gentleman who has the QA42A(along with several other Brinly items) and begged off till next Saturday..He was OK with and I'll be making a double effort to get with him for sure, as his understanding saved my hide in the idea I needed that time to get my wife some flowers and a card and food from her fav Japanese restaurant before having forgot her birthday and came home with yet another piece of something to eat up more time!
Got both my carbs cleaned in the ultra sonic cleaner at work..I have a couple of spare K301a engines and carbs, so I figured while I was cleaning fuel related items I'd rebuild two carbs and have a clean spare..Redundant I know..LOL.. The ultran sonic vat does an excellent job with the warm solvent and sonic pulses, Old carb bodies generally come out looking like new..I cleaned them one at a time as to keep the needles and jets with the original respective carb body. I have a couple of OEM Kohler carb kits, so those will get used in the reassemble of the carbs.
I also scored a narrow frame spring assist for my lift arm for cheap! Yes! The power of networking by word of mouth is an amazing thing..
Looking to get up to the shop and look for the electrical problem with the 126..Hoping it's something real obvious and an easy fix. LOL...(DON'T WE ALL).. I'd love to fire the old beast up today..I've got a headlight panel I want to install and wire in as well..plus LED tail lights and rear work light..
Regards
John
Got both my carbs cleaned in the ultra sonic cleaner at work..I have a couple of spare K301a engines and carbs, so I figured while I was cleaning fuel related items I'd rebuild two carbs and have a clean spare..Redundant I know..LOL.. The ultran sonic vat does an excellent job with the warm solvent and sonic pulses, Old carb bodies generally come out looking like new..I cleaned them one at a time as to keep the needles and jets with the original respective carb body. I have a couple of OEM Kohler carb kits, so those will get used in the reassemble of the carbs.
I also scored a narrow frame spring assist for my lift arm for cheap! Yes! The power of networking by word of mouth is an amazing thing..
Looking to get up to the shop and look for the electrical problem with the 126..Hoping it's something real obvious and an easy fix. LOL...(DON'T WE ALL).. I'd love to fire the old beast up today..I've got a headlight panel I want to install and wire in as well..plus LED tail lights and rear work light..
Regards
John
