David K, That is cool, hope that lasts forever, When we had our shop my Dad and I put a lot of conversions on briggs. easier starting and fewer plug problems too.
Tom H, I have one of those mounted plows, I went to look at the plow after hearing a local guy had one. Got to talking to him, real nice guy, Made an off hand bid on the plow, for my F-14 and ended up with the parts F-12 it was mounted on cause the guy didn't want to mess with taking the plow off.
Steve B, Haven't forgotten to thank you for the words of wisdom. Hit a wall in testing and not done yet. Got it to dig to china and have to add some weight on the tractor to continue.
Tractor show at the pumpkin patch by the pink elephant Sun. Are you coming down? Don't know if the motorcycle ride for charity is the same day this year or not. Last two years I've been caught in the "parade ride of thousands of cycle riders passing by as I was coming or going to the show. They're quite a site.
I was hoping to get my 126 together with plow to park over there for something different for their show, but that didn't happen. I do finally have the last of the parts I need for reassembly. (Thanks, Don.)
Does anyone out there in tractor land know where I can get reproduction Brinly stickers? Specifically, I'd like to get the serial number stickers generated with the original numbers that are on them, both for the Cat 0 plow and disk that I just bought.
Also, does anyone know of a serial number breakdown for Brinly implements that will allow me to determine the year of manufacture?
Hi Keith. The only one I know of reproducing the serial number tags is Jim Buske out of Oaks, ND. He has a link over on the WFM main page. But, he uses a 1964 serial number. I'm not sure if he would do one-off numbers or not. He also sells the square style "Brinly" sticker. If you want the oval style "Brinly" sticker, I'm pretty sure Brandon P. from HAPCO sells them. For a year break down on them, if it has a serial number like this "B-71-30573", then the year is the two numbers right after the "B", in this case, 1971. I have a single hitch pin hole cultivator that is numbered differently, "B-30641" and have not yet found anybody that can date it, other than it is a fairly early piece since it has the single hitch pin hole hitch, rather than the later 3 hole hitch. This info is for the white attachments, I've never looked at the later black painted ones to see if they have a SN tag like the earlier ones. Anyway, I hope this helps.
I'm not going to be one of those guys and tell you to get a Carter Carb, but if you do see one cheap, get it. Anyhow, is your governor set correctly? Make sure you have the throttle shaft on the carb full open when you turn the governor shaft CCW all the way and tighten the nut. Set the max rpms for 3600, some say under load, I do it without a load to be safe. I set my idle at around 1000-1100. I've seen some governors and throttle linkages set so incorrectly that you only have 1/4 inch of travel. A bad (rusted shut or too short) governor spring will also throw off the response too resulting in too fast response. Remember, an inch of throttle cable stroke does not equal an inch of governor arm stroke, it just increases the spring tension and therefore the resistant force that the governor has to overcome (via a speed increase) until it levels off. Kenny
finally got to start the overhaul on my 149 yesterday, got all the major components seperated, found that the engine was only held in by the two right side bolts, the po had changed the hytrans but didn't pull the cover to clean the gunk out. i've got the whole weekend to work on it so i should make some good progress, need to tear down the engine and replace the gov. gear and anything else that looks ify, install a new trunion spring and rag joint, and then sand and paint every thing. well better get to it.
jeff r. how are you comin on your belt drive tractor?
Rick L., your symptoms are of governor problems, not carburetor.
Set the governor shaft in the arm per the book. That is, loosen the clamp on the shaft, pull the arm all the way forward so that the throttle plate is wide open, turn the governor shaft counterclockwise until it touches the stop, then retighten the clamp. If the shaft shifts in the arm at all, you will lose governor control.
Spec idle speed is 1000 RPM. This adjustment is the throttle stop on the carb. Set the throttle control bowden wire so that it is just pulling the throttle off the stop at minimum on the lever.
The spring needs to be clean and in good condition. It goes into the third hold up on the governor arm for the initial adjustment. I have mine in the second hole on the throttle arm (the arm connected to the bowden wire).
A quick check for proper governor action: with the engine running at about 2000-2500 RPM, push forward on the throttle linkage lightly with your finger. If you do not feel firm resistance, and the arm will go all the way forward, you've got governor problems inside. If it moves a little, then stops well before full throttle, the shaft has slipped in the arm.
If you can't get good clamping, score the governor shaft lightly to make a few ridges along it, check the condition of the arm clamping surface, and use a 1/4-28 fine-thread bolt in the clamp arm.
Could you post a picture of your "one holer" Brinly with the new decal? Jim Buske told me that the original decals were hardware store decals . . . . just wondering if he figured out that brinly stuff existed BEFORE JD L&G stuff
Here's my 169 100' out my front door. Picture was taken the other day . . . . now there's RV's of leaf-lookers lining the streets!
I be damned if I didn't find every thing I needed to know in the service manual after I saw the posts. I, for some reason was looking for a table or something. Oh well, I should know better. I rememeber hunting for numbers when I rebuilt the engine on my A... I don't think I'm going to have to do the cam plate adjustments as I didn't remove it, and was very careful not to bump it, then again I'll find out when I get it going...
Maybe, just maybe I'll get this thing back together tomorrow. The lawn waits for no man.
I have a Softcover Heat Houser(cab??) that fits on my CC1650 and needs new Plexiglas/plastic windows. Is this something that I can easily find and replace or do I need to find a "Professional" to repair/replace them? Or the windows still available for a Cub Dealer? I assume that they are obsolete. I have never mounted it on my tractor yet and it looks like that I need to drill some holes in the fenders for proper mounting. Does anyone have directions to do this?
I sent a copy of the instruction manual for the soft cab to your email address. (I assumed that's the one you're talking about...)
To answer your question, YES, you do have to drill the fenders for the door latches without modifying the brackets. I chose to plug the holes during the off-season with something that's called a "swell-nut". It's a rubber plug that has a bolt going through it and a nut on the backside. You stick it into the hole you want plugged and tighten the screw on top to fatten the plug and make it snug.
Here's a top view..