Tedd-Or,they both have chips(CHiPS)(Colorado Highway Patrol(S),or,they both have cords(electrical and cordwood),or,they both have lights,or,they both have colors,or,they both have mice(mouses?),or,they both have browsers(shoppers,tourists),or,they both have explorers(Internet Explorer,outdoors explorers),or,they both have zip drives(zippy drivers),or,they both have.....(maybe the TEACHER will learn something
Some thoughts on todays plowing. I started off setting the tractor on cement & wood blocks like the FAQ. started in the top hole on the lower bracket, the pin in the thrird hole on the lift straps. Set up like this I had one heck of a chisel plow, just way to much point. Started turning the adjuster to level the bottom up some. At one point I put the pins in the lower bracket in the bottom hole. Finally got the plow to give me a shallow furrow with a poor wall. Moved the lower bracket up one hole and got a little more depth but not enough. Tomorrow I'll make sure my straps aren't limiting the plows movement down while in the furrow. Plus look closer at the coulter and the plows left swing, to try and clean up the furrow wall. These plans sound like steps in the right direction? I don't usually do it but I'm asking for opinions, going to try it again tomorrow.
Results can be very dependant on soil conditions...hard dry dirt can be a bear.....
Generally, when raised all the way up, the lift links should be adjusted so that the point only clears the ground by 2-4" (with the plow adjusted properly). Make sure your coulter isn't too low (acting like a gauge wheel) or tracking over to the right, in front of the shin/moldboard, and pinching the dirt/trash in that area....both of those things can keep a plow up out of the ground. You may not get a perfect furrow wall in some soils, and some soils may require a slight "nose down" plow adjustment (extra point) to keep the plow working at depth.
I usually start in the middle holes on the lower 3 pt. bracket, and adjust the lift straps for the 2-4" clearance when "up"....then turn the crank to level'er out.
Might also check the clevis position on the plow...on most IH's you will want the clevis on the right hand (furrow) side of the beam and will want to run in the middle hole for 8.50 rubber or the middle or far right hole for 10.50 rubber (middle if conditions are tough).
Art the best way to fix the crack is to have it Tig welded with the washer on the inside for support.also put the heater hose on the bracket by the front grille casting to slow the vibration.Bringing the M&W to Plowday it looks a lot different than the roller.
are international in boundaries so potentially use several different languages; have RAMs/rams; can freeze; can bring on emotions of awe, amazement, humility, frustration, etc.; can be safely modified only by somebody who truly knows what he or she is doing; can provide viewpoints unlikely without them.....
Steve, I have the clevis on the left side, in the far right hand hole. I can't remember where now but I saw a chart once that gave suggestions based on the distance between the rear tires. One more question. I was haveing a senior moment yesterday what does the adjustment at the bottom of the beam right behind the moulboard. Is that to "point" the
bottom right or left. Thanks Steve, I appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks, we'll discuss it in further detail at PD6. Can't wait to see that M&W!
I don't know if you "have your ears on", but I thought of you last night when I came home from work.
I have the day off today so the building inspector could come and give us a final inspection. Well, long story short, he decided to show up YESTERDAY and proceeded to give me a long list of items that I'd planned on taking care of prior to our appointment today. Wrapped them all up in a nice little package called a "Notice of Noncompliance", then had the cajones to leave me a note telling me how unhappy he was that I was absent for our appointment.
I think you meant Rich Julian, since he's had the troubles with the building inspector, though in my former life I used to represent developers & fought with building inspectors, planning boards and zoning boards all the time.
However, I do recall you are a Porsche fan, so you might appreciate this OT pic of my 10 month old.
Thanks for the photo. That is the beast I am trying to get running. Any chance I could ask you to post a photo of the lower connections, in particular the governor spring to throttle control? When my spring is connected the way I think it should be, it has the throttle begged open as in your photo. That can't be right so I must have messed something up.
Kinda nasty under there but here's a couple pics for ya. The first pic is the spring that runs up to the top of the engine and the second pic is the gov lever that it's attached too to adjust it on the fly.
550 Spyder's my favorite, but don't worry, we're keeping him grounded in reality: he came home from the hospital after delivery in a mildly-modifed Jeep Wrangler.
To keep some semblance of on-topic: The heirloom 108 gets a new wiring harness on Saturday (thanks to Travis), and Dad's health has improved to the point that he took his first ride on his 129 today, after I've been mowing with it at his place for a year and a half.
Thanks for the photos. It sure looks like I set it up the way it wants to be set up. There must be something stupid I am missing or have backwards or such. Sometimes the simplest and most obvious things can be so elusive.
Kraig or Charlie: Do you have a picture of the Unicorn log splitter that mounted on the Cub Cadet rear wheel? I just picked up a Unicorn log splitter at an auction in Rogers, Ohio with an 8 HP motor to turn it. I got the motor running but the carb is all gunk-ed up and won't stay running. Will post a picture later. Thanks