• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through October 06, 2003

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Mark Hahn,

Peco makes a universal boot for lawn vacs. I used it to mount a PECO vac to my 107. It is a piece of black plastic without the opening for the deck or the discharge chute. You layout your opening allowing about an 1" of extra opening ahead of the foward edge of the deck. The boot mounts using a angle bracket that then attaches to another angle bracket you mount on the deck. My PECO vac is a 3.5 hp unit and does pretty well with my 42" deck.

I don't have access to a digital camera so I can not send over pictures for you to see.

PECO also sells the tubing for the unit but you would be better off getting it from someone like McMaster-Carr.

PECO is at www.lawnvac.com, here is a link direct to the parts list
http://www.lawnvac.com/abs_molded_parts.htm

Does anyone happen to have a good clear picture of the governor setup on a K241A? Both my manuals have hazy prints and I can not get a good idea of how to put it back together.

Thanks,
Rick


(Message edited by rlathrop on October 06, 2003)
 
Dave-
After going through nearly 1200 drywall screws, you'd better believe I got that drywall on correctly!
12646.jpg

<font size="-2">excuse the mess</font>
I finally got some seat time in today. Got some help from my "little buddy" cutting down the dead flower beds in the front yard. I told her if she helped me, that she'd get a "hay ride" when we were done. <font size="-2">Little does she know, it was just a plot for me to get more seat-time driving around the house a dozen or so times!</font>
happy.gif

12647.jpg

Then I took the 71 w\Haban out for a photo shoot and my "little buddy" kept trying to get into the picture...
12648.jpg
 
Maybe if the furrow wheel weights stick out far enough when plowing you could just add some angle iron to the outer radius to make them bite like the old steel wheeled tractors!! Nah,just kidding guys,now don't be showing up at Travis' like that,it ain't fair ;-)
 
Wyatt, I checked out the size on the Kenda tri-ribs last night. They are 4.00-8 size, however they are taller and have wider ribs than the other imports that most other people have. I think I got mine from Byers tire barn.
 
ART - Son & I started drywalling My shop on New Year's Eve last winter. I figured 25# of 2" screws would be enough for the ceiling AND the 1/2" BC plywood I used for the walls. I WAS WRONG. Shop is 24 ft X 36 ft so about 864 Sq. ft for the ceiling and the same for wall area. Nothing like a spacious warm dry shop with a Fridge full of Cold Tools to work in! JOHN LANG - The weights I have on the outside of My 72 look just like those jon dear weights on Charlie's tractor. But since they were Totally devoid of ANY paint when I bought them back in about 1968 I really doubt they were dear weights. Foundry I used to work for also had a similar casting for use in an automobile shredder (Huge hammermill grinder 8 ft wide and 6-7 ft in dia.) that was the same dimensions except it had five notches for the valve stems.
 
Denny-
My new shop is 24X36 too!

Travis-
Don't forget, we broke ground before you did. I was digging burried TV and phone cable up from frosty ground in late April. Your addition is going up A LOT faster than mine!
 
Jim M., you never responded if you have the fiberglass seat pan on your 123. I got my fiberglass seat back from getting reupholstered by Cub Connection. While it is not an exact reupholstering like the one piece original, the "two piece" (there is a seam in the seat) reupholstering is very well done, quick turnaround too. I have not had a chance to try it out for comfort yet but it has more padding then the black seat pad I have on one of my other fiberglass pan seats.
 
Art, looking good! You and Travis are both ahead of my residing project. I'll only get two sides completed this fall. But then I did build the 10'x18' Cub Shed this spring/summer.
 
ART - If You want to "Practice Mudding & Taping" before You start on Your shop COME ON OVER! You going to keep Yourshop heated all year? I only fire up My kerosene heater on weekends unless I'm doing an oil change after work during the week. Did You put hot water heat in the floor? My NEXT SHOP WILL have that! It may end up with central air conditioning too. Maybe this winter I'll get the central COMPRESSED air installed in My shop.
 
Denny-
My original garage is a bit oversized. It's big enough to hold two sections of pallet racking and right now comfortably holds 3 cubs (with all the implements) as well as my Suburban and the wife's car.

Right now I am thinking that this new garage will be dedicated to nothing but storage, and the (eventual) air compressor and welder will be kept with all the other tools in the original garage once I move everything downstairs.

The new space is below the living room so I didn't want all the noise and odors going upstairs into the house, so I guess the long answer to your question is "no" that new garage is not heated because I hope to do all my work in the upstairs (old) garage where I can use a Kerosene heater without the fumes or air compressor noise getting into the house.

The only reason I sheetrocked this new area is because my building inspector wanted there to be 5/8" of drywall between the garage and the living space above as a "fire-stop" which I guess is smart anyway. (Travis, are you listening?)
 
Art:
GREAT SPACE! I'm jealous! (Are the tapered edges on the sheet rock facing towards you?)
wink.gif


Tedd:
Say it ain't so that your selling your Cub.
sad.gif
 
Thanks for the advice on ags and turfs with/without chains. I'll probably end up using the turfs with the chains but I'm interested to see how it performs with the plain ags on there. I'm guessing it will be better in snow than on ice. Sounds like a new Disney show - CUBS ON ICE!
lol.gif


Dave R., Sounds like you might have a gummy carb that keeps the throttle plate open. I'd check all your linkage to make sure that it's moving freely. Also, there should be a spring between the bottom of the governor arm and the throttle cable plate. Make sure that the spring is putting tension on the arm when you move the throttle.
 
Ray,
Got to keep focused on the little guys, kids and Cubs. I have to move some money around and the Lo-boy is the bigges chunk that needs to move.

Spot, Dot and Stinky are safe they will only leave when I'm no longer plowing here on earth.
 
Dave R., here is a drawing showing where the spring should be located as per the description that Steve S. just gave.
12650.jpg
 
Tedd:
Sorry to see it go. I know it meant a lot to you. But, like you say, kids and family first. Hope your little one is doing well.

Art:
I'm just tryin' to raz ya about putting things backwards but am not doing a very good job of it.
biggrin.gif


I'm sure you know about the tapers and am pulling my leg, but for those that don't:

the 8 foot edge of sheet rock tapers away from the surface and forms a trough with the sheet next to it. This is so that when the tape and muck are applied it won't mound. A lot of guys apply glue to the edges of the wood studs before laying up the rock, then tack only the edges with either nails or screws. These get covered with the muck when you tape the seam. Saves on having to muck all the pin holes created by the screws in the middle of the sheet and saves on screws, and you get a better paint job. This method won't work on the ceiling panels. In order to glue the rock onto the stud, the insulation bats need to be stapled to the face of the 2x4, not the edge than comes into contact with the rock. Putting chip board behind the rock is a good idea because it lets you hang your tools wherever you want. You don't have to hunt for studs.

Sorry if this is way off topic and long winded, but maybe it will help soemone somewhere on the next Cub garage.
 
RAY - That's why I used 1/2" BC plywood on the sidewalls. Not quite the fire rating of drywall but a LOT tougher and it will hold screws better. Now if I could just stop hitting the ceiling with Long pointed objects.....
 
Ray-
I know about the tapers and WAS just pulling your leg.

BTW...if there is anybody on the forum who's made a living by "taping and muding" or has extensive experience, I have some questions for you..
 
Art,
i used to hang and tape all my own sheetrock in the homes i built. sometimes upward of 275 (12') sheets per job, did this for about 15 years. how can i help?
 
Back
Top