Archive through October 04, 2016

[jstertz]

Agreed Earl--one has to define the purpose for their tractor before making any upgrades (changes) to the way that the factory built it. Often it is easy to make a modification for one purpose that interferes with using it for another. If one desires to use a given tractor for snow removal, lawn cutting, or tilling, you gotta keep a functional PTO. Ground engaging only allows a lot more freedom to be creative but that comes with knowing the purpose. The old "arm strong" lifts are amazingly simple and relatively trouble free. However, with younger users, older users, and the rest of us who just want the tractor to do the work, hydraulic lift is nice. The "easy" way out is to buy a tractor set up already, sometimes that isn't an option. So, I'm glad to see what everyone out there is doing. I know from experience that it is really nice to have hydraulic lift on a plow tractor for sure!

 

[wcompton]

You fellas are 100% correct. I've worked at this twice now.

First shot was the Wheatland. Built K321, gear start, stator, electric clutch, hitch, gear drive, hydraulic lift; the works. I've plowed and mowed with it, even held onto a narrow frame blade frame in case I ever need to put the 54" blade on it. It's nearly all bolt-together (save for a clutch adapter and wire harness), works well and never let me down.

Second shot was my replacement for the beloved old 169. Its an IH-built 782 with a Command, power steering, dual hydraulics, hitch; also the works. This is every bit of bolt together with the exception of a wire harness. Even with a CH20, it's still definitely not the lugging ability, but it sips fuel, and is easy to drive. Even my 4-year old is able to easily run it (very closely supervised). I use this daily for everything. So much so that it's made me nearly contemplate selling the Wheatland!

I've got a later off-topic SGT (72 series) that I absolutely love, but the Haban deck doesn't cut as nice, and since I don't have the blower or blade for it, it's really just for heavier 3-point work.

 

[jstertz]

"Nearly contemplate selling the Wheatland"--QUOTE From Wyatt

That should WAKE up the forum if nothing else will! Which brings me an interesting thought, "What are some of the 'Legendary' IH (gotta keep Papa Bear from waking up!) Cubs built by forum members over the years?" To classify: IH Cub, named or not (like the Wheatland, Art's Plow Special) and some sort of cool build, back story, modifications for a purpose, or something amazing that the tractor has performed". Names and tractors thrown in would be cool, pictures even cooler!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Josh, there is a thread for the custom Cubs, best place to start is to have a look. ---> Cool IH Cub Cadets Not OEM but better'n' new ! ! !

 

[kshultz]

Wyatt
I'm surprised to hear your Haban doesn't cut as good.

My Haban is the best cutting deck since the timed original decks. I would think you have everything set up correctly.

 

[ajtimm]

Hey Steve and Jason..

After weeks of soaking, I tried a the special tool (nut and bolt) for removing steering wheels- No Luck. Tried on all three of my parts frames and then went back to my puller just for good measure. Used a 5 pound maul with both the bolt and puller.

Seems a shame to cut real nice steering columns..

 

[jwiggins]

Maybe before you "cut" possibly give the highly engineered wood block a good look,,, might possibly be able to figure something out between the puller, 5/8" fine thread with up pressure on bottom of wheel, and the engineered wood block,,, possibly a combination of 2 of those 3 methods,,, I know the wheel can be a bear just maybe try to really think about it with whatever tooling and hardware you have available!!!!

I sure hope you can achieve steering wheel Victory without cutting!!!

 

[sblunier]

You are pushing UP with your knees while smacking the 5/8" bolt with the hammer correct? You must push upward for all you're worth for it to work (and leave a small gap for the wheel to move when assembling the nut/bolt on the shaft).

 

[wcompton]

Shultzie-
I've got the version of the Haban on the IH-982 that only has rear gauge wheels. The deck skin is wide enough that it flexes a bit much. The real fix would be to take it apart, build a frame from the rear gauge wheels to the front, and then reinforce across the front edge tying the two sides together. Right now it cuts the same quality I'd expect from the average Bush Hog, but my 44C deck seems to do quite bit nicer job as long as I don't let the grass too tall (airflow seems to really suffer with tall grass, that's where the Haban seems to really do well).

 

[kshultz]

Wyatt,
OK, that makes sense. Mine is off of a Cyclops tractor with the front gauge wheels.

 

[sblunier]

Mine with the gauge wheels does well, but occasionally leaves 3 lines of clippings under the rear edge of the deck (where blades meet) in really high grass.

If you can source a 54GT deck.....that's the ticket for a SGT.......high flow, deep shell, Gator capable......a real horse of a deck!!!!

 

[wshytle]

Anthony-

Like Steve mentioned the 5/8-18 bolt/nut and upward pressure are all you need to get the hardest steering wheel off. There's no need for wood blocks or pullers either IMHO. He also mentioned the space under the nut (about 1/8 inch) which is very important. I've had problem cases but all came off with patience and penetrating lube.

It's sort of a shock therapy thing and you don't need a BFH either. It really doesn't take much.

.

 

[jwiggins]

Looks like CCS 3/4" spindle bearings are only a few bucks difference from OEM vs case/IH,,, I would imagine both sets are quality bearings,,,, I also noticed the Stens extra wide "or" tall roller bearings,,, Any reason other than sticking w/ OEM to choose one over the other???

 

[jwiggins]

Alrighty then,,,

OEM it is...

 

[digger]

Jason W.
Left to right,
Cub Cadet OEM, CNH, Stens.

OEM and CNH are machined.
OEM is hard steel and open faced.
CNH is milder steel and open faced
Stens is formed steel and closed faced.

If people are not one to grease on a regular bases, Stens or other after market bearings are fine.
OEM and CNH require grease on a regular bases.

I personally use only OEM or CNH, as they seem to be a tad oversized and fit better on old wheels that have stretched over time.

I could do a Hydro Harry 3 page dissertation, but my fingers get tired after 3 SHORT paragraphs!

 

[jwiggins]

Awesome, Thanks for the info....

Last time I had wheels off 149 spindles appeared to be fine, w/out breaking out the mic,,, anyway when the new fronts go on I was hoping to avoid my spindles ending up like the parts 1250 spindles,,,,, I got plenty of grease guns,,,

Hey, Thanks Again,,,,

 

[mgonitzke]

I've had a couple steering wheels not come off with the bolt/nut/hammer approach. I've also destroyed a couple sets of lower bearing races that way. The puller is MUCH easier on the steering box parts (and your knees).

Depending on the tractor/steering wheel/person combination, it can also be difficult to wedge your legs under the steering wheel well enough.

 

[chaines]

Are the Sten's bearings ball or roller type? Seems like roller would be a better bearing for this application but who am I to say as the balls have lasted 30 or 40 years. I really like the enclosed bearing.

 

[digger]

All 3 shown below are male!

 

[nbextermueller]

Those 1250 spindles look just fine to me. In fact a perfectly good wheel bolted right on and covered up that minor scuff...

One mans garbage... Right?