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Archive through October 01, 2008
- Thread starter jbliler
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
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- Home of the Plow Special
This just in via email....
Easier to read when enlarged... (A.K.A. "geriatric version")
Not that it REALLY matters, but the way it looks in the diagram, the heat-shield that would have come with this set up appears to be slightly different than a "normal" narrow frame muffler heat sheild. <font size="-2"><font color="0000ff">(see BLUE arrows)</font></font>
<font size="-2">(But like Paul B. eluded to earlier, that may be giving the parts lists too much credit for being "correct".)</font>
Easier to read when enlarged... (A.K.A. "geriatric version")
Not that it REALLY matters, but the way it looks in the diagram, the heat-shield that would have come with this set up appears to be slightly different than a "normal" narrow frame muffler heat sheild. <font size="-2"><font color="0000ff">(see BLUE arrows)</font></font>
<font size="-2">(But like Paul B. eluded to earlier, that may be giving the parts lists too much credit for being "correct".)</font>
mgerecke
Well-known member
I hope someone here has a solution. My k321 in my 149 has sat outside for a few years before I got it and the block is really rusty just in the cylinder fin area on the outside of the block. The engine is a relacement one installed back in 1997 and is black in color. The rest of the motor is in good shape. What can I do to get the rust off the fins so it can be painted? I tried filing each fin and it really does not help! The head is fine-I guess because it is aluminum.
Any help would be appreciated. This forum is a lot of help for us novices!!
Mark
Any help would be appreciated. This forum is a lot of help for us novices!!
Mark
Brian L., nice job on the trailer! What are the dimensions of the box?
I had to take the morning off to meet with an insurance adjuster for my roof from a hail storm last May. My neighbors both got new roofs so I figured I better have mine checked. I had a look right after the storm and didn't see any damage. Turns out there was just enough for him to recommend replacement of the entire roof. Anyway, while I was waiting for him to show up I changed the oil in the car and while I waiting for the oil to fully drain I did some work on K4K. Short story long, sorry....
As I mentioned the spacers for the Original headlight mounts were missing so I made some out of 3/4" black pipe and made them too thick. Yesterday I was at Fleet Farm and decided to see if I could find a bushing of some sort that might work for a spacer. I found this bushing for a trailer hitch ball:
The thickness is perfect but the I.D. is just a bit small to clear the bolt in the lamp housing.
So I drilled it out slightly.
Perfect!
Tonight I'll get them painted.
The Grote tail lamp rubber bushing/contact was starting to deteriorate and get stiff.
While I was at Fleet Farm I looked to see if they sold replacement parts. Sure enough they do! One problem though the hole in the back of the Grote lamp is designed for a rubber tail from the bushing to pass through. The replacement part uses two phenolic washers on each side of the spring. The bottom one would be visible from the back of the Grote lamp also the contact-crimp was also visible through the hole. So I put a piece of heat shrink over the contact-crimp. I also made a washer out of some larger heat shrink material.
As I mentioned the spacers for the Original headlight mounts were missing so I made some out of 3/4" black pipe and made them too thick. Yesterday I was at Fleet Farm and decided to see if I could find a bushing of some sort that might work for a spacer. I found this bushing for a trailer hitch ball:
The thickness is perfect but the I.D. is just a bit small to clear the bolt in the lamp housing.
So I drilled it out slightly.
Perfect!
Tonight I'll get them painted.
The Grote tail lamp rubber bushing/contact was starting to deteriorate and get stiff.
While I was at Fleet Farm I looked to see if they sold replacement parts. Sure enough they do! One problem though the hole in the back of the Grote lamp is designed for a rubber tail from the bushing to pass through. The replacement part uses two phenolic washers on each side of the spring. The bottom one would be visible from the back of the Grote lamp also the contact-crimp was also visible through the hole. So I put a piece of heat shrink over the contact-crimp. I also made a washer out of some larger heat shrink material.
fcurrier
Well-known member
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- Jul 5, 2004
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- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Mark: I think you'll find that an unpainted head dissapates heat better than a painted one. I know that's not the answer to your question, but after it's been run awhile it'll look better.
On another note, FedEx backed in here this morning with a package from CC Specialties. Just 6 days from the day I ordered! Now (when the ground dries out) I can finish tilling and will have a nice, new (read DRY) seat for snowblowing this winter.
On another note, FedEx backed in here this morning with a package from CC Specialties. Just 6 days from the day I ordered! Now (when the ground dries out) I can finish tilling and will have a nice, new (read DRY) seat for snowblowing this winter.
kide
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- Aug 27, 2006
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- Gerry Ide
Art:
I'd suggest you contact Mr. Eagle and encourage him to sign up for a speedier e-mail service (42 years !!)
Mark:
Mask everything else off, plug all holes well, mask extra carefully around areas like the governor shaft where it exits the block and then find somebody with a sandblaster and CAREFULLY blast ONLY the fin area...(BTDT on the Pontiac motor in my F-100 pickup, also found thin freeze plugs while doing that..)
I'd suggest you contact Mr. Eagle and encourage him to sign up for a speedier e-mail service (42 years !!)
Mark:
Mask everything else off, plug all holes well, mask extra carefully around areas like the governor shaft where it exits the block and then find somebody with a sandblaster and CAREFULLY blast ONLY the fin area...(BTDT on the Pontiac motor in my F-100 pickup, also found thin freeze plugs while doing that..)
Kraig: Trailer box is 36"x46"(didn't go to 48" because of the steel that I had available for free).
Wayne K : Axle is a piece of 5/8" round stock welded to the bottom of the trailer frame. I just greased the axle and keep the wheels on with collars. I can take more pics if you like.
Wayne K : Axle is a piece of 5/8" round stock welded to the bottom of the trailer frame. I just greased the axle and keep the wheels on with collars. I can take more pics if you like.
Brian,
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
I can take more pics if you like.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Yes please!
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
I can take more pics if you like.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Yes please!
I rolled K4K to the garage this morning so I have more room to work on it tonight, no room in the shed. I need to hook up the drive belt and adjust the belt tension. Connect up all the electrical and engine control stuff. I'll have to grease all the zerks. Jerry, yes, including that one on the clutch assembly.
The engine needs oil in the crankcase and in the air cleaner. The headlights will have to wait for now as I need to paint those spacers. I could mount the tail lamp and put on decals perhaps. I was hoping Fleet Farm would put their L&G batteries on sale this week but they didn't. I'll hold out until next week to buy a battery and hope they go on sale. Last week they had the smaller L&G battery on sale but I want the 360CCA one.
Hmmm, anyone see anything wrong in this photo?
Hmmm, anyone see anything wrong in this photo?
Brendan, bingo! In my defense, my brother is the parts manager at a local Arctic Cat/Yamaha/Stihl/Husqvarna/JD L&G dealer and I needed some more bar oil for my Husqvarna chainsaw.
Keith, if you look close you can see that there's plywood under the smaller fuel cans. The gas doesn't stay in the 6 gallon can very long, Cubs are thirsty.
Keith, if you look close you can see that there's plywood under the smaller fuel cans. The gas doesn't stay in the 6 gallon can very long, Cubs are thirsty.
Some one said trailer, so i might as well post mine lol
But i have a problem with my O, just installed the new fuel bowl and mowed some of my lawn and felt the shifter hit my leg,If i press down on the shifter i can find the gears but this has me baffled as to what happen to the shifter. So i`am open as to what i need to do to repar this. Thanks Don T
But i have a problem with my O, just installed the new fuel bowl and mowed some of my lawn and felt the shifter hit my leg,If i press down on the shifter i can find the gears but this has me baffled as to what happen to the shifter. So i`am open as to what i need to do to repar this. Thanks Don T
klejeune
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- Dec 10, 2007
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- 477
- displayname
- Keith LeJeune
Gotcha Kraig, didn't see the plywood.
Speaking of gas for Cubs. I've started using 89 octane with MMO and I feel like the Cubs are running better with it rather than 87 octane with MMO. (my Hemi Dodge suggests 89 octane, so I'm already using that pump anyway) I used to fill a 6gal can and I wouldn't use it up very fast. This summer I started filling just a 2gal can, but have been going through that faster than I like, so I found a 5gal that hopefully will be just right.
Speaking of gas for Cubs. I've started using 89 octane with MMO and I feel like the Cubs are running better with it rather than 87 octane with MMO. (my Hemi Dodge suggests 89 octane, so I'm already using that pump anyway) I used to fill a 6gal can and I wouldn't use it up very fast. This summer I started filling just a 2gal can, but have been going through that faster than I like, so I found a 5gal that hopefully will be just right.
