I recently purchased a HABAN sickle bar mower for my Cub Cadet 127. I need the service/ operator/parts documents. Anyone know a source? [email protected]
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Archive through October 01, 2004
- Thread starter troberts
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Steve/Ryan-
...and just when I thought I didn't need anymore cubs! You're not helping with this talk of an 1806!
Tom-
I can burn an entire manual on CD for ya and toss it in snail mail if you'd like. Drop me an email if you're interested...
...and just when I thought I didn't need anymore cubs! You're not helping with this talk of an 1806!
Tom-
I can burn an entire manual on CD for ya and toss it in snail mail if you'd like. Drop me an email if you're interested...
Tom R,
OH OH OH, I have those CC #'s too, you want'um!
His SSN might come in handy too, grin
OH OH OH, I have those CC #'s too, you want'um!
His SSN might come in handy too, grin
Art,
Since your buyin today,
Since your buyin today,
Iguess you really wanted to see the 1806 didn't ya.
till
Well-known member
Thank you one and all for the advice on getting off the PTO. It slid right off with some tapping and a little PB. Man what is with the double clutch disk and spring on the old one?!?!?!? The new clutch disk is the same thickness as the old doubled one.
BTW 499.75 hours and counting.
BTW 499.75 hours and counting.
Hello everyone. I haven't posted here in several years, even then it was just a few posts. Time, duties and a well running 1650 kept me away from this forum for a long time.
My 1650 was purchased new by my dad in approximately 1975 and served him well for many years at his indoor farming operation (greenhouses). I even spent many hours/months on it then. In the mid 80's it went through a fire in one of the outbuildings and sat melted, blackened and dejected until 1999 when my dad gave it to me. First thing I did was put a pipe wrench on the driveshaft to see if it was seized and it wasn't. Then I bought a battery for it, cleaned out the carburetor and bone dry gas tank and turned the key. Like Woody Allen's VW in the old movie 'Sleeper', it fired up on about the 4th chug. I then spent many hours on a working 'restoration' (I'm an experienced amateur)of the tractor and 50" deck.
Next, I went on an extensive search for a decent QA-36A snowblower. I first located a QA-36 (narrowframe, of course) which I bought and could modify just in case I couldn't locate a QA-36A. I ended up later selling it, believe it or not, to a fella in Southern California who wanted it for his place up in the mountains. (Trucking companies wanted $800 to ship it there. Barely meeting UPS' 150 pound max weight limit, they sent it for ~ $80). Finally locating a QA-36A 60 miles away in Buffalo, NY I encountered just one hitch: the seller insisted on selling it as a package, attached to a 109 (107?, I forget) along with a pristine 42" mower deck. I kept the blower and gave the rest to my best friend of many years (who is now a Cub convert and is amazed at it's durability).
Which all leads to a question: The blower, of course, works best when run at maximum rpm's. I already have a tiny pulley on the blower to maximize auger rpm's. I just replaced the bearings in the blower gearbox (replaced the auger bearings 3 years ago) and observed that the gears in the blower gearbox ~may~ be interchangeable thereby increasing auger speed by about 4X. Any comments, anyone?
TIA, Mark.
My 1650 was purchased new by my dad in approximately 1975 and served him well for many years at his indoor farming operation (greenhouses). I even spent many hours/months on it then. In the mid 80's it went through a fire in one of the outbuildings and sat melted, blackened and dejected until 1999 when my dad gave it to me. First thing I did was put a pipe wrench on the driveshaft to see if it was seized and it wasn't. Then I bought a battery for it, cleaned out the carburetor and bone dry gas tank and turned the key. Like Woody Allen's VW in the old movie 'Sleeper', it fired up on about the 4th chug. I then spent many hours on a working 'restoration' (I'm an experienced amateur)of the tractor and 50" deck.
Next, I went on an extensive search for a decent QA-36A snowblower. I first located a QA-36 (narrowframe, of course) which I bought and could modify just in case I couldn't locate a QA-36A. I ended up later selling it, believe it or not, to a fella in Southern California who wanted it for his place up in the mountains. (Trucking companies wanted $800 to ship it there. Barely meeting UPS' 150 pound max weight limit, they sent it for ~ $80). Finally locating a QA-36A 60 miles away in Buffalo, NY I encountered just one hitch: the seller insisted on selling it as a package, attached to a 109 (107?, I forget) along with a pristine 42" mower deck. I kept the blower and gave the rest to my best friend of many years (who is now a Cub convert and is amazed at it's durability).
Which all leads to a question: The blower, of course, works best when run at maximum rpm's. I already have a tiny pulley on the blower to maximize auger rpm's. I just replaced the bearings in the blower gearbox (replaced the auger bearings 3 years ago) and observed that the gears in the blower gearbox ~may~ be interchangeable thereby increasing auger speed by about 4X. Any comments, anyone?
TIA, Mark.
bmcmeen
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Mark S. -
The faster you turn the auger, the less work it's going to be able to accomplish. Sure, it'll be able to fling soap flakes into the next county, but will likely stop dead in its tracks when met with heavy, wet snow. Go with the smaller drive pulley and keep it at that. Probably the best compromise between auger speed and applicaple HP at the auger. It's exactly how my QA42A is setup.
BTW, in choosing a drive pulley size, remember, the smaller it is, the less contact surface for the belt and the easier it will be to slip/smoke a belt. Sure, you can tighten the belt, but at what cost? Mashing the engine mount snubbers and probably shortening the life of the isomounts.
Speaking of snowthrowers...
Oh Tedd...
The faster you turn the auger, the less work it's going to be able to accomplish. Sure, it'll be able to fling soap flakes into the next county, but will likely stop dead in its tracks when met with heavy, wet snow. Go with the smaller drive pulley and keep it at that. Probably the best compromise between auger speed and applicaple HP at the auger. It's exactly how my QA42A is setup.
BTW, in choosing a drive pulley size, remember, the smaller it is, the less contact surface for the belt and the easier it will be to slip/smoke a belt. Sure, you can tighten the belt, but at what cost? Mashing the engine mount snubbers and probably shortening the life of the isomounts.
Speaking of snowthrowers...
Oh Tedd...
Hi I was wandering if anyone knows wheather or not the snow blades made for the model 70 and 100's will fit a 127. It is a spring trip blade, but its not quick attach. I can put a picture on here if someone is wanting to know what I am talking about. Apperently there were not to many made.
till
Well-known member
Oh no, I ain't gonna go there.... I break enough stuff around your place.
R
rmull
Guest
Travis T.-
The snow blade for the 70/100 is the same as all the 71/1x2/3 series. I believe you can weld 2 lynch pins in a set of holes on the front attachement point, and it will work just fine on a 72/1x4/5 and 73/1x6/7 series narrow frame QA tractor.
The snow blade for the 70/100 is the same as all the 71/1x2/3 series. I believe you can weld 2 lynch pins in a set of holes on the front attachement point, and it will work just fine on a 72/1x4/5 and 73/1x6/7 series narrow frame QA tractor.
dgallagher
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- David Gallagher
I am restoring a 149. I have had it completely apart, rebuilt the motor and replaced or fixed everything else that I thought needed it. After putting the motor, tranny and drive shaft back in, I see a bulge in the rubber drive ring that appears to incicate that the front of the motor needs to be shimmed up with a washer or two. Is this normal, or is something bent ?. Thsnks.
bmcmeen
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Travis T/Ryan -
AFAIK, this is the ONLY narrow frame blade subframe made to be either bolted on or used with a quick-attach:
Note the holes at the top, which are used with either bolts/nuts or a 1/2" rod, and the inward facing pins below, for quick-attaching.
The older style subframe with the two holes on each upright is to be used with (a) extensions for a rod to "pin" it to a 100's frame (b) alone with a rod to "pin" it to the 100's mower mounting bracket or (c) alone with a rod to "pin" it to holes drilled in an Original's frame. Refer to the 42-inch spring trip blade operator's manual dated 11/18/1966...
AFAIK, this is the ONLY narrow frame blade subframe made to be either bolted on or used with a quick-attach:
Note the holes at the top, which are used with either bolts/nuts or a 1/2" rod, and the inward facing pins below, for quick-attaching.
The older style subframe with the two holes on each upright is to be used with (a) extensions for a rod to "pin" it to a 100's frame (b) alone with a rod to "pin" it to the 100's mower mounting bracket or (c) alone with a rod to "pin" it to holes drilled in an Original's frame. Refer to the 42-inch spring trip blade operator's manual dated 11/18/1966...
This little guy had 5/8" spacers on the mounts and it fit just fine, even back on the foot rest rods.
Bryan,
Thanks for the pictures. I had a blade like you showed in the picture once but no longer have it. My blade has the original extensions on the subframes like you described with a 1/2 inch rod. I tryed to fit it on my 127 today and it would not work. Its the first one with a subframe like that that I have had. I know with some time, good welding, and a grinder I could make the newer style bracket like you have but it seems like a shame to mess it up.
Thanks for the pictures. I had a blade like you showed in the picture once but no longer have it. My blade has the original extensions on the subframes like you described with a 1/2 inch rod. I tryed to fit it on my 127 today and it would not work. Its the first one with a subframe like that that I have had. I know with some time, good welding, and a grinder I could make the newer style bracket like you have but it seems like a shame to mess it up.
bmcmeen
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Travis T. -
See our sponsor ads above? Contact one of them, they should be able to fix you up with a used subframe that will work for you. You only need replace the subframe, not the whole thing.
See our sponsor ads above? Contact one of them, they should be able to fix you up with a used subframe that will work for you. You only need replace the subframe, not the whole thing.
