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Archive through November 30, 2004
- Thread starter jderstine
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Dave,
Yes, I could but............
I would toss and turn at night knowing that the rig needed maintenance. I would probably wake up in the middle of the night with an uncontrollable urge to fix it. So, for my sanity and to avoid sleepless nights.......... it's gett'in fixed!
Yes, I could but............
I would toss and turn at night knowing that the rig needed maintenance. I would probably wake up in the middle of the night with an uncontrollable urge to fix it. So, for my sanity and to avoid sleepless nights.......... it's gett'in fixed!
K
kmcgiver
Guest
you guys have been having a posting party in here
Terry,
You are correct. I have a complete canvas cab enclosure on the 1650 with a QA42A snowthrower. It sure keeps most of the snow off you back and face. It also gets you out of the rest of the elements like wind and falling snow.
You are correct. I have a complete canvas cab enclosure on the 1650 with a QA42A snowthrower. It sure keeps most of the snow off you back and face. It also gets you out of the rest of the elements like wind and falling snow.
I understand'ya, Terry- My wife worries about me disturbing the neighbors with my 3:30AM bright flashes of light, clang-banging, and hideous, evil laughter... and always worries about what strange monster she might find in the shop or driveway when she wakes up...
But to properly fix that shaft, you'll be pulling the engine apart. If you've got a lathe, and you're good with oven-baking and welding up cast-iron crankshafts, you could do it yourself, then grind it back to spec, and re-cut the keyway...
...but it'd be a whole lot more sensible (dollars-and-cents-aible) to stick a different crank in it. While you're at it, give it the obligatory bore, rings, piston, and governor gear, deck the block, true the head, install gasket & seal kit, and rock-and-roll!
But to properly fix that shaft, you'll be pulling the engine apart. If you've got a lathe, and you're good with oven-baking and welding up cast-iron crankshafts, you could do it yourself, then grind it back to spec, and re-cut the keyway...
...but it'd be a whole lot more sensible (dollars-and-cents-aible) to stick a different crank in it. While you're at it, give it the obligatory bore, rings, piston, and governor gear, deck the block, true the head, install gasket & seal kit, and rock-and-roll!
I recently bought a CC carb to use as a spare. I put a kit in it after checking the float to be sure it was ok.
As soon as the bowl fills gas starts pouring out, lots of gas. I tried another kit with the same thing happening. The tractor will crank and run but I can't afford to buy the gas in addition to maybe being burned or blown up.
Does the carb just need to be junked?
As soon as the bowl fills gas starts pouring out, lots of gas. I tried another kit with the same thing happening. The tractor will crank and run but I can't afford to buy the gas in addition to maybe being burned or blown up.
Does the carb just need to be junked?
Bill G.
I assume that the carb kit had a new needle and seat in it, and that you replaced them?
You might also want to check the float and make sure that there's no gas inside it, they sometimes get pin holes.
I assume that the carb kit had a new needle and seat in it, and that you replaced them?
You might also want to check the float and make sure that there's no gas inside it, they sometimes get pin holes.
I have a question about my 147 and adding hydraulics. Is it possible to tap off the hydro unit, or will I have to add a separate pump unit to drive off the motor? I haven't had much luck in keeping the elec. lift working and would like to add a hydraulic lift for the mower and font blade.
Reid, the hydro in your 147 would not have the ports for a hydraulic lift. You could swap it out for one that has the ports or add on a hydraulic pump. There was a hydraulic lift kit available for the narrow frame Cub Cadets, though no longer available new they do come up on the used market now and then.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Reid,
It will take a few modifications to install a narrow frame hyd. lift on your tractor......the 14hp flywheel messes things up just a little bit.....but it is doable, I have done an electric to hyd. conversion in the past.
It will take a few modifications to install a narrow frame hyd. lift on your tractor......the 14hp flywheel messes things up just a little bit.....but it is doable, I have done an electric to hyd. conversion in the past.
I need help. If you can leave a number, I will call you. My email is [email protected].
I have a rebuilt 1450, engine has just a few hours on it. It started up and ran fine for about 1.5hours of mowing, then started running rough. I stopped to analyze the problem being a newly rebuilt motor and carb. I have now put on new points, new condenser, new plug, new float, new float valve and seat, new main jet needle, and adjusted to the book several times with the same effect. It just will barely run with full choke, any less than full choke and it dies. We can get it to idle ok, but off idle and it just sputters and backfires. Take the plug out and it seems wet, but we try to let the choke off to lean it out, and it dies even with the rpms up. We have gotten it running and try to adjust the main jet 1/4 turn in/out and nothing seems to make a difference. Could the carb be cracked internally that we cannot see by taking off the float bowl??
Any suggestions will be appreciated. I have lost all interest, my wife is threatening to push it around front and stick a FREE sign on it so I will quit working on it all the time. Luckily it a hydro, she can't push it up the hill. But I need to get it running.
thanks, Joe
I have a rebuilt 1450, engine has just a few hours on it. It started up and ran fine for about 1.5hours of mowing, then started running rough. I stopped to analyze the problem being a newly rebuilt motor and carb. I have now put on new points, new condenser, new plug, new float, new float valve and seat, new main jet needle, and adjusted to the book several times with the same effect. It just will barely run with full choke, any less than full choke and it dies. We can get it to idle ok, but off idle and it just sputters and backfires. Take the plug out and it seems wet, but we try to let the choke off to lean it out, and it dies even with the rpms up. We have gotten it running and try to adjust the main jet 1/4 turn in/out and nothing seems to make a difference. Could the carb be cracked internally that we cannot see by taking off the float bowl??
Any suggestions will be appreciated. I have lost all interest, my wife is threatening to push it around front and stick a FREE sign on it so I will quit working on it all the time. Luckily it a hydro, she can't push it up the hill. But I need to get it running.
thanks, Joe
I was just looking at the Membership Map and realized there were no pins in Tennessee. I added my info to the survey and there will be at least one pin in the Volunteer State.
If you haven't checked it out, click on the small map in the opening site page and you can see where the "surveyed" members are located.
I notice that there are no pins in California and Nevada and many of the other states. I am surprised. I wonder if we have forum members in these states, but they simply haven't clicked on the map and given their name, city, state and zip.
It would be interesting to have all members go to the map and click the link and give their info.
Just my $.02 worth.
MDC in TN
If you haven't checked it out, click on the small map in the opening site page and you can see where the "surveyed" members are located.
I notice that there are no pins in California and Nevada and many of the other states. I am surprised. I wonder if we have forum members in these states, but they simply haven't clicked on the map and given their name, city, state and zip.
It would be interesting to have all members go to the map and click the link and give their info.
Just my $.02 worth.
MDC in TN
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Joe,
You are starving it for fuel...make sure you have good steady fuel flow into the barb on the carb. Varnish and crap in the tank, rotting fuel line, pinched fuel line, etc. will cause this. Also make sure your fuel cap is vented, you can pull a vac. on the tank and starve it for fuel that way too.
One other option, make sure the little holes in the main jet needle are clean and free of junk.
You are starving it for fuel...make sure you have good steady fuel flow into the barb on the carb. Varnish and crap in the tank, rotting fuel line, pinched fuel line, etc. will cause this. Also make sure your fuel cap is vented, you can pull a vac. on the tank and starve it for fuel that way too.
One other option, make sure the little holes in the main jet needle are clean and free of junk.
