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Archive through November 30, 2004
- Thread starter jderstine
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Tom H. -
It's an amazing thing - it's absolutely bone dry downtown. But it appears that things aren't warming up back home, so I'll be out there tonight trying to cleanup the driveway.
It's an amazing thing - it's absolutely bone dry downtown. But it appears that things aren't warming up back home, so I'll be out there tonight trying to cleanup the driveway.
Bryan, I don't know if they are scored or not. I only have Hydros, (not counting the Original).
Every NF drive shaft I ever bought at the dealer has been scored. Last count was 11 on my end.
This just in from Tom.........
Tom what can you tell us about this?
Tom what can you tell us about this?
Kraig,
What's Tom's dated?
I've got some 1914 stuff layin around.
What's Tom's dated?
I've got some 1914 stuff layin around.
Tyler T,
It's called havin more than one NF.
It's called havin more than one NF.
Charlie, Tom's got ya beat, 1909.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Dave K2.-
102 Does not have PTO safety switch, only 1974(?) and newer ones have them....
102 Does not have PTO safety switch, only 1974(?) and newer ones have them....
Z
zfriedman
Guest
I was just under my 102 and I can tell ya that they got a safety switch. Short and sweet...
Z
zfriedman
Guest
Ok, back from the garage. To further elaborate on that safety switch thing, I don't know how it is on other Cubs, but on my 102 the clutch/brake pedal has a metal tab that pushes back into a plunger, which completes the circut. Pretty simple.
On the subject of my safety switch, it appears operational. I got on under, used my hand to pull the pedal to the floor board, and watched along with a flashlight. Works just fine, but I decided to re-center the metal tab anyway.
The Starter-Generator seems ok as well. I hooked it up directly to a battery as Dave Kamp instructed, and while the SG didn't seem to happy about being woken from its at least 2 year sleep, it did cough at me, which is as good a sound as I could expect.
My solenoid appears to be a corroded mess, I'll do a little reasearch on those.
Are grounding problems simply a matter of going around and filing down connections? Any suggestions and/or commonly messed up areas?
As I read the forum and these postings on headlights I realize I'm missing pretty much everything except the headlights themselves. Bryan McMeen (hello, by the way) quoted $120 for most of the equipment. I've never bought tractor bulbs before, about how much should I subtract from 120 for working headlamps?
Lots of questions, I know. Waitin for the manual.
Zack
On the subject of my safety switch, it appears operational. I got on under, used my hand to pull the pedal to the floor board, and watched along with a flashlight. Works just fine, but I decided to re-center the metal tab anyway.
The Starter-Generator seems ok as well. I hooked it up directly to a battery as Dave Kamp instructed, and while the SG didn't seem to happy about being woken from its at least 2 year sleep, it did cough at me, which is as good a sound as I could expect.
My solenoid appears to be a corroded mess, I'll do a little reasearch on those.
Are grounding problems simply a matter of going around and filing down connections? Any suggestions and/or commonly messed up areas?
As I read the forum and these postings on headlights I realize I'm missing pretty much everything except the headlights themselves. Bryan McMeen (hello, by the way) quoted $120 for most of the equipment. I've never bought tractor bulbs before, about how much should I subtract from 120 for working headlamps?
Lots of questions, I know. Waitin for the manual.
Zack
Zach, all tractors starting with the 1X2,3 had the starter safety switch on the clutch/brake pedal but Matt said PTO safety switch which did not start until the 1X8,9 series. You can put a jumper wire in the harness for the safety switch and see if the switch is working correctly. I did that on my 109 three years ago when the little tin flapper broke off the clutch/brake pedal shaft. I should get a new one to put on one of these days before an inexperienced driver hops on it. I feel it is more critical to have it working on a gear drive than a hydro, but they should all have them and working.
I just got a new ride from ebay. I'll be picking it up in a few weeks. It is the same unit as the One armed bandit. I have twins!! I got it cheap (I think so). There is one issue. The pto shaft bearing spun. It grooved the drive shaft about .025. After looking at the picture of the shaft it actually looks like the bearing retaining collar spun. Charlie posted an assembly picture of a pto a while back. His picture showed the bearing running all the way at the end of the shaft. Not where the damage has occurred. However, I still might need to weld and file the drive shaft to fix. I wouldn't feel comfortable with JB weld.
Comments??
Comments??
Terry- congrats on twins!
On this shaft thing... you could remove the deck, fit it up with a hydro lift-kit, put a blade on the front, ags on the rims, and a 3-point/sleeve-hitch kit on the back, and just use it for pushin' and plowin'...
And when you get around to rebuilding the engine, just stick a new crank on it...
OR you could fit the one-armed bandit to it, and mount a dedicated pump sheave to the crank (in a non-worn area), so that PTO won't matter... put the mowing deck and thrower on the other machine...
On this shaft thing... you could remove the deck, fit it up with a hydro lift-kit, put a blade on the front, ags on the rims, and a 3-point/sleeve-hitch kit on the back, and just use it for pushin' and plowin'...
And when you get around to rebuilding the engine, just stick a new crank on it...
OR you could fit the one-armed bandit to it, and mount a dedicated pump sheave to the crank (in a non-worn area), so that PTO won't matter... put the mowing deck and thrower on the other machine...
Digger: Thanks for the pix of the 122 showing the original tires.
I appreciate the feedback on tires for mowing with the CC 122. However, I guess I am just dense on this topic.
When I look at the Firestone and Carlisle web sites, I see the various tires that they offer but I still don't know the sizes that I can use on my 122's original wheels.
On an automobile, I know that my 16 inch rims allow me to mount and run almost any tire that has "16" in its dimensions.
What size tires can I run on the 122's stock front and rear wheels? Or should I ask, "What is the range of tire sizes I can mount and run on the 122's stock wheels?"
Thanks in advance,
MDC in TN
I appreciate the feedback on tires for mowing with the CC 122. However, I guess I am just dense on this topic.
When I look at the Firestone and Carlisle web sites, I see the various tires that they offer but I still don't know the sizes that I can use on my 122's original wheels.
On an automobile, I know that my 16 inch rims allow me to mount and run almost any tire that has "16" in its dimensions.
What size tires can I run on the 122's stock front and rear wheels? Or should I ask, "What is the range of tire sizes I can mount and run on the 122's stock wheels?"
Thanks in advance,
MDC in TN
