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Archive through November 30, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Zack,

The solenoid isn't grounded at any point other than it's mounting bracket, all the other wires are hot, or will be when it's in the "start" position.
 
Zach,
If ya need bigger pics, just holler.
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Zach- there's sometimes (and I don't know 102's very well, so maybe not) a safety-switch on the PTO lever... make sure you've got the PTO disengaged. The safety-switch on the clutch pedal... that metal tab that pushes on it sometimes leans the plunger sideways, keeping it from depressing fully. Push down on the pedal and watch the tab push the plunger... you might see the tab flex, and the plunger stick. When you turn the key, let up on the pedal a tad, usually relieves enough bind on the plunger so it popps down. If you don't SEE a plunger, it's 'cause it broke off... that happens...

You can test the starter-generator, to see if it actually responds... hook a battery directly to the S-G... take your spare garage-battery, ground the S-G bracket to garage battery "-" post, and hook the battery's "+" post to the LARGE terminal on the S-G... if it starts spinning, then it's workin'... and your electrical problem is either battery or engine-ground, solenoid, solenoid/safety switch wiring. If it doesn't spin, it probably has a stuck brush, or some internal problem... fix this first, then go back to your other problems.
 
Zack,

Also remember, if the VR is aftermarket (many are) the posts may not be in the same arrangement as the ones shown in the photos. ALWAYS use the post markings as your wiring guide, never wire it like the photo.....your VR might be laid out different.

VR's are typically grounded through the mount point to a good frame ground.
 
Hey Bryan,
Looks like about 3" on the ground now, and some more to come yet. Gonna' be off work tommorow, so I knwo what I'm doing in the AM. Will take pix.
 
Todd- congrats on the 169! Does it have hydraulic or 'armstrong' lift?
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Thanks for the fill-in, Steve- I figured that's the way it was, considering the F-cub and LoBoy's (much higher) spindle-loads (both torque and deflection) from larger wheel radius. I assumed that the drop-boxes had reduction, but didn't realize that there was a reduction difference in the input shaft. The K-motor is DEFINATELY putting a beating on those gears that the C60 could never do. Be that as it may, I wouldn't mind having a Cub or LoBoy in my collection...

Pushed a little snow with the 108 today... I've got all the bugs worked out except for the clutch... oh... and the seat... starts great at 30F though!
 
I just bought my second 782. This one's engine got "dusted" because the crancase vent was not hooked to the air filter. It runs OK but burns quite a bit of oil. Is there overhaul kits available for the Kohler twin engine? Maybe just a ring set? Thanks.
 
Dave,
the 169 is a hydro. That solved one of the things my Dad hated about the 128 when ever he used it. Especially with the Snow Thrower on it.

He found it, I bought it. He also found with it a Johnson Loader, another $300. a 50" mower deck for $125, and a tiller for $200. So over all it was an outlay of cash that I could have spent on other things, but none nearly as fun. It smokes a little at start-up, but runs great over all.
 
Tom H.,
I almost got the 149 out tonight to play in the 2" I have in Beloit, Wi. I just want to play in the snow before it all melts overnight. I figure with the ground temperature it will probably be less than an inch left in the morning, and it will be melted by noon. Just wish I would get some snow to play in before I start the new job on Monday. Oh well, I guess we still have a lot of winter left yet.
 
Jeff D:

Here is Typical Wiring Diagram for a Cub Lighting circuit. Also, here is a "ladder schematic" for additional reference.

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JEFF D. - If Your wire harness on Your 125 isn't too screwed-up by a prior owner the wires for the headlights "SHOULD" be in the harness, They were in My 72 of the same series. If I remember right the wire from the steering console to the headlights is Purple... but after 36 yrs it's probably kinda a pale lavender. Pull power off the starter solenoid, fused of course, to a switch, and hook the purple wire in the harness to the output of the switch. DAVE K. #1 - Let Me know the price on that neon light..... I'm definitely interested in one..... maybe two! Dad's been a Good Boy this year and I can't think of much to give Him for X-mas..... If it's a "Late Present" it doesn't matter! It's the Thought that counts!
 
Jeff D. -

Lessee, a couple of GE 4411 (or equivalent) bulbs from the local farm store, a used headlight panel w/rings, short hunk of wire and a few spade lugs, nah, couldn't be $120 plus...
 
Jeff D., I don't know how well this held up (I forget who it was that did this light setup) but it's a possible setup for your 125. The lights, or similar versions are available at Fleet Farm, Northern Tool and other stores.
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If I were to do this I would add some sort of heat shield to prevent the plastic housings from melting like they did on a Cub that I bought a few years back. But then the PO had them mounted on the outside of the grill and the one on the right was just below the exhaust outlet.
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(Message edited by kmcconaughey on December 01, 2004)
 
Guys

I am getting ready to paint my 128 Hood with IH 935 White. I am wondering what you guys do with the Fiberglass Dash piece? Are you painting it as well to make sure it matches the hood? If so do you need to do any special prep to the Fiberglass to paint it?

Thanks for the help.

Bob Johnson
 
I posted this before but kind of got off track talking about yellow fever.
How hard is it to install a creeper gear? I saw one on eBay the other day. My 72 has the holes for it but doesn't have one. Seems like it'd be handy to have...
Also does anybody have a link to instructions on how to pull the K161 out of my tractor when I go to replace it or should call Jensales for manuals?
 
Robert - Wet sanding is what I've done to the fiberglass dashes in the past. You may want to use a sanding block to maintain the corners and edges
 
Curt, it'd be best to have the manuals if you intend to tear into your Cub. The best place to get them is from Binder Books They are one of the Forum sponsors.
 
Curt, the service manual for the 72, 1x4/5 series covers the creeper gear removal/installation. However, it assumes it has already been installed, rather than the initial installation. You'll need a shortened driveshaft to install the creeper unless you get lucky and get a shorter driveshaft with the creeper. (Check with one of the Forum sponsors for a shortened driveshaft.) FWIW, all the gear drive Cubs had the holes for the creeper even if they didn't have one installed. Except for the Original, some of the early versions did not have the hole for the creeper handle. The narrow frame Cubs also use creeper with a shorter handle than the wide frame Cubs but the housing and gears are the same. The Original uses a completely different creeper than the other Cubs.
 
Curt and anyone else out there!
WHY in the world would you even consider buying a PIRATED reprint manual that the seller does not have permission to sell in the first place!
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