Archive through November 30, 2004

[jderstine]

I would like to add headlights to my 125. It did not have them originally. I have a pair of " KC Daylighters " that I would like to use. This way I can see when I snowblow at night.

I have a wiring diagram in my CC operator's manual on page 21, but it is not very clear as to the headlight wiring. I also checked numerous threads in the archives, but couldn't find a complete answer.

Any suggestions on wiring? Connect to the "L" on the regulator or off the battery? I have a push/pull switch to put in the original position.

Also, any one have any photos of brackets to mount headlights? ( Your idea may be better than mine. )

Thank you very much

Jeff

 

[digger]

Jeff D,
You want to put 2 100 WATT lights on that thing?

 

[till]

I know that this may be OT, but I have to share....
We had a

arrival tonight.

 

[dkirk]

Would any of the fortunate few forum members who has one of these...

please supply me with the width and height dimensions of the sign? I found a very talented sign maker that will reproduce these but I'd like to get the scale as close as possible to the original.

 

[jderstine]

Charlie,
Is that too much for the system? I do have another pair of rectangular lights ( driving? ) I could use.

If it's too much I'll revise my plans.

I like my cub, I don't want to "smoke it".

 

[rtaylor]

David,
Signs are 24" wide by 18" tall.

 

[zfriedman]

I got the ignition coil, I got a new battery, and I wired it up best I could. Key in the ignition and....nothing. A little click and magnificent silence.

Lemme check it all out again. Question 1: shouldn't it at least crank/make some other noise.

Question 2 deals with that who B+S+1 thing. Don't understand a bit of it. Help, please?

Frustrated near DC

 

[digger]

Jeff D,
That's WAY to much for the system, get down around 30/40 watts and you'll be safe.

Zach,
Did you follow the wiring diagram to the letter? And did ya clean up your ground connection REAL WELL?

 

[jderstine]

I'll have to check out the the watts on the other lights or purchase ones to use.

Any ideas on the wiring?

Thanks for the info Charlie

(Message edited by jderstine on November 30, 2004)

 

[digger]

Dear Frustrated,

 

[mbounds]

Zach F: You are reading a numeral one (1) when you should be seeing a letter I (for Ignition circuit - goes to the + terminal of the coil) along with the letter S (for Start circuit - goes to the solenoid for starter engagement)

 

[zfriedman]

Now I got that I'm a big moron feeling...I've been getting that a bit to much lately. It's not a 1 its a I.

I'm going to the garage to hit my head on the wall. (And file the ground wire...nice tip)

Moronic and still frustrated in DC

 

[bmcmeen]

Jeff D. -

Would it be too much trouble to just call one of our sponsors and get the lights that are SUPPOSED to be on your tractor?

 

[digger]

Jeff D,

 

[jderstine]

Thanks for the diagram Charlie. That's a little clearer than the one I have.

Brian,
I would like to go with the proper headlights, but I added up parts and I'm over $120 w/o shipping or wiring.

 

[digger]

Opps!

(Message edited by cproctor on November 30, 2004)

 

[sblunier]

Dave,

Yes, point being that the transmission in the Cub Cadet is subject to considerably more gear load due to the 7:1 ratio that Denny mentioned and the "rough" torque that a single cylinder Kohler puts out.

Yes, there are reductions in the drop boxes as Paul very specifically stated, and I'm sure you know that the further down the line you take the reduction, the less load the transmission carries. At a very similar HP/Torque input from the flywheel, a Cub Cadet MULTIPLIES it by 7:1 BEFORE the transmission (actually not quite accurate since it's turning 2x the speed....but at least 3.5 times the torque), while the F-Cubs and Lo-Boys drive the tranny at 1:1 and take their reduction in the final drops.

Ever wonder why the ring gear carroier is prone to breakage in Cub Cadets?......It was never designed or intended to take live axle loads...in the F-Cub the drop box bull gears and bearing sets took that load off of the trans-axle.


Any way you look at it, the Cub Cadet gives the transmission a heck of a lot more abuse than any underpowered C-60 ever did, even on a hard pull.

 

[tgolding]

Greetings all: Having arrived home for thanksgiving and being off until at least the first of the year, I am finally getting to work on my 128. THe same tractor that I needed to work on since spring, but had no time too. (But my father found me a nice 169 for $350, all original with paper work! Thank goodness for 65 year old men who are retired and loves to look for good stuff!)

Today I took out the K-301 and striped it down for a good rebuild. I am having one problem though. How in the world do I press the bearing plate and crankshaft out as a group?

Also, off topic but of importance, and something I think many would enjoy knowing. I have spent the better part of the past 6 months working with our combat wounded soldiers and Marines at either Walter Reed or Bethesda Naval. These fine men, most of whom are not even old enough to buy a beer legally, are doing well and are charging ahead with life. I met one such young man right before thanksgiving. he is 19, lost his leg at the knee. His primary goal is to get well and find a prostetic leg that will allow him to go rock climbing. I also want to plug a note in here about Fisher House, they are a non-profit group that builds residents and maintains them so that family members of the wounded can be at the hospital at little to no cost. What a dedicated group.

Well that is it, any help that you all can give me would be helpful. I plan on working on this first thing in the morning.

 

[sblunier]

Jeff,

Starter Generator output is on the order of 15 amps...start doing some math, allowing some amperage to run the ignition curcuit and charge the battery and you had better keep your TOTAL lighting load under out 10 amps or 120 watts.

I run 3ea. 35W GE 4411 bulbs on my 149 plus the taillights (not much)...about 110-115W and the charging system won't keep up at anything less than 2/3-3/4 throttle.

Things to think about.

If you must go aftermarket, find some 35W GE4411 trapezoid pattern aftermarket farm lights (TSC, Fleet Farm, F&F, etc.) and run them...2 in front and one in back.....just the ticket for moving snow!!!

 

[zfriedman]

Did a full check-over of the electrical system, looks like someone did some electrical tape rigging...uh oh...that can't be a good thing.

I found all the components (damn safety switch under the mower) and the Voltage Regulator looks like trouble. The gray and yellow wires (Bat. and F) are the opposite of what appears on the circut diagram. I decided not to switch them...is there a picture available of how the whole voltage regulator is supposed to look? Also, how is the voltage regulator grounded, just directly through the frame, or is something supposed to go down to that empty mount on the muffler? (Headlights maybe?)

Also, how is the solenoid grounded? It seems like a thin red wire (not the one to generator) grounds the solenoid in the same place the battery is grounded, is that correct?

I hope I didn't further embarrass myself on this time around.