Frank C. thanks but I already did that, I had to get out my magnifying glasses to see your pic. I seem to have some hood to grill contact, replaced the hood bolts with the correct size, but still vibrates and rattles
Ok guys as directed I removed the wire from the f terminal and ran a continuity test and found the correct wire. this time I got signal on only one wire. I did run a ground wire from the voltage regulator to frame ground because some one said no ground will burn out my new regulator . Took my fresh charge battery and when I attempt to connect the battery the Cub 149 engine will roll over ?what Is up now
yep have that wire diagram here printed off in colour . I installed the point saver and new blue coil and had the cub running great . I just had a no charge issue for some time and wanted to install a new voltage regulator and have a great 149 . GRRRR I have what I can`t see .
Michael H - glad to see you post. I'll keep praying for ya in upstate NY - and even hoping the temp don't rise to quick.
Frank C (aka Spud Picker er, is it Woody?) - if you don't know what to do with that thing, well load it up and take it over to NY. I'm sure Michael H has a lot of uses he can show you.
Doug B - ya you can use the Mule drive but I believe you have to remove the pulley assembly set-up. I always thought it was much cleaner and easier to use the frame extenders. I always had trouble trying to mount the sub-frame with the mule drive - just never wanted to line up well. Frame extenders are easily aligned.
1. With the engine running more than half throttle, measure the voltage at the A terminal, it should be 13 to 14.5 volts. If it is 12.5 or less, ground the F terminal, if the voltage goes up to 13 to 14.5, most likely the problem is the regulator. Other possibilities are the wire from the F terminal to the voltage regulator, and the ground on the regulator not being good. If the voltage at the A terminal is 14.5 to 17 volts when you ground the F terminal, the regulator cut-out section is probably not connecting the A terminal to the battery. If the unit is measuring 13 to 14.5 volts at the A [without an external ground applied to the F terminal] terminal, the voltage measured at the battery should be within .1 or.2 volts of the voltage measured at the A terminal, if it is the system is working correctly.
Don T. did the charging system work before you installed the points saver?
Also you mentioned that all the wires at the reg. were the same color which would indicate that someone has replaced them at some point. I would trace the harness to that spot and open it up.
the person who did the work may have not properly spliced the wires. If it were me I'd redo it with correct color wire, use heat shrink crimp connectors. I can't tell you how many times I've had cars come in were someone has rewired or added something, used the wrong gauge,color, twisted the wires together and wrapped tape around them. It may work for awhile but sooner or later will fail.
If I read Dons description properly...is he saying that S/G turns over by itself with no key? I didn't look yet but didn't a few years ago someone have the same problem and it was with a regulator with welded points! ?
EDIT: But then again, maybe a miswired reg could do the same thing.