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Archive through November 19, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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eford

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Messages
1,317
displayname
Earl Ford
Charlie's new project has me thinking. On the cozy cabs, were they made differently for narrow and wide frames?
Would the one on my 104 fit on my 129 or 1450 per say?
 
Earl F.
From what I've gathered over the years, yes they are different.
The fender angles, length front to back and the biggest thing I've seen is the width.
If I hadn't planned on replacing the fenders, I wouldn't have used the cab on the black tractor, simply because it's not long enough going down to the foot rest and it's setting on the very edge of the fenders.
I had to get creative to get it mounted.
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Existing is 1/4"

NOS is 1/8"

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I Need a NOS 1/8" "LINK" ???
or Drill NOS handle for 1/4" pin ???

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You could just weld the hole shut, re-drill the hole for a 1/8" pin and install a spirol pin instead of a roll pin it has now.
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If you know for a fact that you'll never pull or push the snot out of the handle, you could do the 1/4". but as you know, more meat means more strength.
 

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OMG "more meat means more strength"
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My Thoughts Exactly,,, but now I'm Modifying the Link, ugh!!!
No big deal, just more WoRK!!!
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Is there such a thing as a 1/4" link?
I guess mine was Drilled out, huh?
 

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Panther

Drilling new Handle Definitely quickest easiest route,,,,
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I doubt I'll ever be hanging on that Fancy New lift handle, should be plenty strong enuff, heck it's lasted this long with 1/4" pin,
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all I did was drill a new hole half an inch over and, boom,, done
 
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"more meat means more strength"
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WELL, Not so Sure I "want" to Drill Shiny New Handle Now!!!
Old Handle was Clearly Bent at Hole, Weak Spot!!!!!

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Drill Handle or Weld & re-drill link,,,,

Hmmmmmm,
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Decisions, Decisions,,,,
If I Pulled the snot out of it, 1/8" roll pin would prolly break, prolly why PO drilled it for 1/4" pin,,,
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If the parts 1250 "link" didn't have that stupid bend in it for that Stupid steering mounted setup,,,,
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If I Weld and re-drill I've got to get drill angle pretty close or I could be leaning way over hood just to reach the darn Handle,
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Jason W. Take a small punch and on the flat piece of the part make a punch mark on the top and bottom of the flat piece as close as possible to the center of the area where you will be welding the old hole shut and re-drilling the new/smaller hole. After you are done welding then align your drill up with the two punch marks on top of the flat piece... move your drill over and center over the piece and drill. You'll be very close to the original hole's location. Hopefully I've explained this good enough.

Or grind off the old part on your old lever. Polish it up. Straighten if necessary and flatten the piece... cut to correct size and drill a new hole on the end.
 
Marlin I was thinking something along those lines, and then I thought about unscrewing cap off new bottle, switching flowmeter from empty bottle to full bottle, dragging out rig and welding lead, sharpening tungsten, hooking everything up, and laying out the punch marks and the cutting grinding & welding,,,
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Then I snapped out of it and just,

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As long as Hydro don't see it I should be in the clear,
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Jason W. You're right. Hydro will never see it or know about it.
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Thanks Charlie, I thought that might be the case. I could put narrow frame fenders on a wide frame, what was that about not telling Hydro.....

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Hey Earl, seems like I remember someone mentioning something about a 100 & ags recently,,,
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Ugh!! Your calling me out Jason! Thursday, I'll get dad's 1450 set with blade, turfs and chains and swap the Tru Powers onto the 100. Truck work(again) today for going to visit Marlin tomorrow. For cub parts!! Hope Ian likes the 102.

Oh, and pics will be taken and posted for all to see! Maybe I'll actually get some rims for my Firestone 26_12_12's and put on 100...
 
You know Jason, I really can't tell what you're up to but what ever you're doing it looks like your brand spanking new lift handle is leaning a little to the rear.
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Pics for Levi W. of his 1450.
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