-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through November 17, 2015
- Thread starter aewald
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Dave W - I forgot to answer your question about what to do with a QA42 that hasn't been used in 2 years.
First, I'd like to say I think you have a "QA42A" based on the chute I can see in your pic of the thrower on the trailer. The "A" suffix indicates the thrower is "adjustable" for either the early series IHCC narrow frame tractors (below serial number 400,001 with Quick Attach latch, or the later IHCC wide frame tractors (above serial number 400,001).
Next, I'd click on the "Manuals" tab on the first page of the Forum, and go to the link for Snow Throwers, and then download a copy of the Operators Manual for the QA36A and QA42A. This will provide you the set up instructions and lubrication guide. It also provides pics so you can see how to align the belt pulley and how to apply the tension on the belt.
I doubt your right angle gearbox will have a fill level plug so it will likely contain grease. To check it you'll have to stand the thrower on end and then remove the cover. Kind of a pain but unless you want to dismount the gearbox it's what you'll have to do to check it. I would probably disconnect the driveshaft from the gearbox (it's only held on with an allen head set screw) before you check the gearbox (and don't loose the key from the keyway when you slide the driveshaft off). Before you remove the gearbox cover I'd spin the gearbox pulley to see if it spins freely and the bearings are smooth. When you do remove the gearbox cover you may discover some really black grease. The factory went to grease on the later throwers but I think the current recommendation here on the Forum is for about 75% grease and 25% gearoil or HyTran fluid.
Next I'd remove the other end of the driveshaft from the chain drive assembly, and then make sure the small chain sprocket is in good condition. I like to oil the chain even tho it's not mentioned in the manual. You can grease the 2 zerks on the assembly holding the chain sprocket and make sure it turns freely. I'd also recommend making sure the small sprocket is aligned with the large sprocket on the auger. The small sprocket is held on a shaft with a roll pin and the shaft tends to slide back and forth allowing the sprocket to chew into the cast assembly. I like to shim the sprocket so it's aligned with the large sprocket and can't cut into the cast housing.
You didn't tell us much about the appearance of the QA42A but I'm going to assume "it looks pretty good" - and by this I mean doesn't have rust on the surface of the auger or inside of the housing. Rust is your worst enemy on the auger and housing and will cause the thrower to clog up rapidly. Since it's already late in the year (early in the snow season) if you have some minor surface rust on the auger or housing I wouldn't tear it apart. I'd clean it off as best you can and apply some type of paint or surface coating that should last thru the winter.
You could disconnect the chain and remove it so you could check your auger bearings. They are not really difficult to replace and CC Specialties stocks them along with the flanges. If you have to replace them you probably should clean and paint the auger and housing at that time. If your auger has any bends I like to use "2 hammers" and pound out the little bends. If you have any breaks or cracks you'll have to get those welded.
I think that covers most things. When you re-install the driveshaft make sure you really torque those set screws. The one on the driveshaft right at the gearbox tends to come loose and allow the key to slip and cut into the output shaft of the gearbox. The Op Manual says to grease the zerk fittings before each use. I recommend this AND ALSO MAKING SURE the 2 set screws on the driveshaft are tight every time before use. I also like to loosen the belt and re-torque it to the spec in the manual. The belt will sometimes come loose during use of the thrower so the 1st few time you use it I'd check and re-adjust the belt after every 15 minutes of use until you know how yours in operating. Some of the guys rig up a stop so the belt adjuster can't loosen on it's own.
Good luck with your QA42A. They work great when they are in good rust free condition, and best on a hydro drive tractor (in my opinion). And I hope you've got some control of your Yellar'N White fever.
First, I'd like to say I think you have a "QA42A" based on the chute I can see in your pic of the thrower on the trailer. The "A" suffix indicates the thrower is "adjustable" for either the early series IHCC narrow frame tractors (below serial number 400,001 with Quick Attach latch, or the later IHCC wide frame tractors (above serial number 400,001).
Next, I'd click on the "Manuals" tab on the first page of the Forum, and go to the link for Snow Throwers, and then download a copy of the Operators Manual for the QA36A and QA42A. This will provide you the set up instructions and lubrication guide. It also provides pics so you can see how to align the belt pulley and how to apply the tension on the belt.
I doubt your right angle gearbox will have a fill level plug so it will likely contain grease. To check it you'll have to stand the thrower on end and then remove the cover. Kind of a pain but unless you want to dismount the gearbox it's what you'll have to do to check it. I would probably disconnect the driveshaft from the gearbox (it's only held on with an allen head set screw) before you check the gearbox (and don't loose the key from the keyway when you slide the driveshaft off). Before you remove the gearbox cover I'd spin the gearbox pulley to see if it spins freely and the bearings are smooth. When you do remove the gearbox cover you may discover some really black grease. The factory went to grease on the later throwers but I think the current recommendation here on the Forum is for about 75% grease and 25% gearoil or HyTran fluid.
Next I'd remove the other end of the driveshaft from the chain drive assembly, and then make sure the small chain sprocket is in good condition. I like to oil the chain even tho it's not mentioned in the manual. You can grease the 2 zerks on the assembly holding the chain sprocket and make sure it turns freely. I'd also recommend making sure the small sprocket is aligned with the large sprocket on the auger. The small sprocket is held on a shaft with a roll pin and the shaft tends to slide back and forth allowing the sprocket to chew into the cast assembly. I like to shim the sprocket so it's aligned with the large sprocket and can't cut into the cast housing.
You didn't tell us much about the appearance of the QA42A but I'm going to assume "it looks pretty good" - and by this I mean doesn't have rust on the surface of the auger or inside of the housing. Rust is your worst enemy on the auger and housing and will cause the thrower to clog up rapidly. Since it's already late in the year (early in the snow season) if you have some minor surface rust on the auger or housing I wouldn't tear it apart. I'd clean it off as best you can and apply some type of paint or surface coating that should last thru the winter.
You could disconnect the chain and remove it so you could check your auger bearings. They are not really difficult to replace and CC Specialties stocks them along with the flanges. If you have to replace them you probably should clean and paint the auger and housing at that time. If your auger has any bends I like to use "2 hammers" and pound out the little bends. If you have any breaks or cracks you'll have to get those welded.
I think that covers most things. When you re-install the driveshaft make sure you really torque those set screws. The one on the driveshaft right at the gearbox tends to come loose and allow the key to slip and cut into the output shaft of the gearbox. The Op Manual says to grease the zerk fittings before each use. I recommend this AND ALSO MAKING SURE the 2 set screws on the driveshaft are tight every time before use. I also like to loosen the belt and re-torque it to the spec in the manual. The belt will sometimes come loose during use of the thrower so the 1st few time you use it I'd check and re-adjust the belt after every 15 minutes of use until you know how yours in operating. Some of the guys rig up a stop so the belt adjuster can't loosen on it's own.
Good luck with your QA42A. They work great when they are in good rust free condition, and best on a hydro drive tractor (in my opinion). And I hope you've got some control of your Yellar'N White fever.
"but I'm gonna have to put you on probation....... you SOLD the 129, the best looking, toughest tractor IHC ever built????"
It's worse then you think. I sold it to a guy in his early 30s who is now showing signs of catching the fever too. I'm also planning on selling the 1250 with the just acquired deck. I'll keep the 1450 I just bought (one owner, garaged all its life, the rear light lens aren't even broken), and the parts 1450, as the wood hauling, snow pushing machine. The 129 I've kept will become the mower/blower machine as I don't trust electric PTO clutches. I had 90% of a rear mounted snow blower/front bladed 129 snow beast figured out, but keeping 2 dedicated tractors just takes less work
Edited to add Thank you Harry, we posted at the same time. Yes the tin looks pretty good, the chain end of the auger is a bit chewed up and there are small rust patches scattered through out the back of the housing and chute but I think if the gearbox/Ujoints/chain are up to snuff I can wait till next summer. The blower is really for 6"+ snows as the blade is a lot faster under 5"
It's worse then you think. I sold it to a guy in his early 30s who is now showing signs of catching the fever too. I'm also planning on selling the 1250 with the just acquired deck. I'll keep the 1450 I just bought (one owner, garaged all its life, the rear light lens aren't even broken), and the parts 1450, as the wood hauling, snow pushing machine. The 129 I've kept will become the mower/blower machine as I don't trust electric PTO clutches. I had 90% of a rear mounted snow blower/front bladed 129 snow beast figured out, but keeping 2 dedicated tractors just takes less work
Edited to add Thank you Harry, we posted at the same time. Yes the tin looks pretty good, the chain end of the auger is a bit chewed up and there are small rust patches scattered through out the back of the housing and chute but I think if the gearbox/Ujoints/chain are up to snuff I can wait till next summer. The blower is really for 6"+ snows as the blade is a lot faster under 5"
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
David W - I'm gonna take issue with Gerry Ide's comment about the 129 being "the best looking toughest, tractor IHC ever built".
I do like the red pin stripe on the hood decal used for the 128/129 units. But the blue stripe used on the 149 and 169 looks just as good and I like the extra power of the 14 or 16hp engines.
I also like the side panels on the 1250, 1450 and 1650 and the controls so I rate these also the best looking, toughest tractors IHC built.
For me, if it's a wide frame IHCC with Hydro drive well then it's the best looking toughest tractor IHC built - and I think you already have several of them.
I'm also ok with you selling one off a unit now and then, but only if you do so you can add another IHCC and keep the fever under control.
PS under edit - those electric PTO clutches will last as long as the manual ones, but usually cost more when they require a repair.
I do like the red pin stripe on the hood decal used for the 128/129 units. But the blue stripe used on the 149 and 169 looks just as good and I like the extra power of the 14 or 16hp engines.
I also like the side panels on the 1250, 1450 and 1650 and the controls so I rate these also the best looking, toughest tractors IHC built.
For me, if it's a wide frame IHCC with Hydro drive well then it's the best looking toughest tractor IHC built - and I think you already have several of them.
I'm also ok with you selling one off a unit now and then, but only if you do so you can add another IHCC and keep the fever under control.
PS under edit - those electric PTO clutches will last as long as the manual ones, but usually cost more when they require a repair.
Paul D.
I just sent you some info.
I'll know more tomorrow on what's going on there.
I've got more coming in and will compare the new one's with the old ones to make sure.
Cub Cadet may have made a goof up on the design for some stupid reason, Grrrrrrrrr
I just sent you some info.
I'll know more tomorrow on what's going on there.
I've got more coming in and will compare the new one's with the old ones to make sure.
Cub Cadet may have made a goof up on the design for some stupid reason, Grrrrrrrrr
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Oh no! that's gonna be a PITA.. I'd try clamping the plate to a backing board and then drilling a centering hole for the drill bit. Then the drill bit in the center of the hole saw mandrel has something to center to ... BTDT..
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
I would like to know if anyone knows where I can get new brake lining installed on my old pads. I have a 108 and the brake pads are shot on it. I have a couple of steep hills on my property and need good brakes. I have tried a couple of used pads with decent lining on them but they don't last more than a few of months.
Engine interchange question
I have 2 QL's (soon to be 3!) and a 129.
The 1250 and 129 run, do not have the 1450 home yet to see.
I also have a freshly overhauled, yet to be fired Kohler Magnum M12 sitting here. Wide base engine.
Would it be possible to swap this Magnum into any of these machines? (Wide base = my main concern)
I have 2 QL's (soon to be 3!) and a 129.
The 1250 and 129 run, do not have the 1450 home yet to see.
I also have a freshly overhauled, yet to be fired Kohler Magnum M12 sitting here. Wide base engine.
Would it be possible to swap this Magnum into any of these machines? (Wide base = my main concern)
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Don B - not exactly sure what you mean by "wide base" but it very likely cannot be used in a 129 or 1250 or 1450. The Kohler engines used in IH Cub Cadets used a Special Oil Pan often referred to as a dished pan. The block itself does not have ears like used on a Kohler in a JD (yuk), or a Kohler with the standard base oil pan. There are some pics in Charlie's Cub Cadet FAQ No. 5 linked here http://cubfaq.com/blocks.html and comments that both the other styles can be modified (basically cut the ears off) but can take a lot of re-work (The JD style takes less re-work than the standard Kohler base style). And then you need a correct oil pan as well. There may be some other things required as well. And before you do any of this you need to make sure the crankshaft output dimensions are correct. Not many others used a 1" diameter keyed shaft like IH Cub Cadet requires. I don't recall the output length. And then there's the stuff like the type of starter. The 1250 and 1450 engines used an integrated starter which requires a ring gear on the flywheel and stator underneath. The 129 used a Starter/Generator with the basket pulley on the crankshaft output (1" diameter). And then there is the oil fill tube. The 1250 and 1450 have an oil fill tube on the top of the block, or maybe shoulder mounted near the location of the starter. The 129 used an oil fill on the cam cover. No idea where your oil fill is on the Magnum. Converting to the cam cover is fairly easy but you also have to somehow block off the original fill hole. Hate to see you cut up up a freshly overhauled Magnum.
My Magnum is like the block on the left in that FAQ link that you posted. I already know about the integrated starter vs starter gen combo, never thought about the oil fill differences.
I do not know the length offhand. One advantage to the Magnum is the lack of points to worry about and the hard to get at aspect of a Kohler on a Cub. I do know that this engine has an 1-1/8" dia. PTO end on its crank.
I have a Woods ZTR, and had gotten a 2nd one that was missing too many parts to be able to piece together and make it usable. so I finished parting it out, and had never heard this engine run, so I tore it down for an overhaul as a spare engine for my other Woods, because its spec number was identical to the engine that is in my running one.
But now that this mower has a dead left hydro and any replacement Eaton 7's I run across are gonna cost more than I paid for the mower 8 years ago, that mower may go down the road as is. so that leaves me with this fresh engine collecting dust.
I do not know the length offhand. One advantage to the Magnum is the lack of points to worry about and the hard to get at aspect of a Kohler on a Cub. I do know that this engine has an 1-1/8" dia. PTO end on its crank.
I have a Woods ZTR, and had gotten a 2nd one that was missing too many parts to be able to piece together and make it usable. so I finished parting it out, and had never heard this engine run, so I tore it down for an overhaul as a spare engine for my other Woods, because its spec number was identical to the engine that is in my running one.
But now that this mower has a dead left hydro and any replacement Eaton 7's I run across are gonna cost more than I paid for the mower 8 years ago, that mower may go down the road as is. so that leaves me with this fresh engine collecting dust.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Don B - with that crank dia. of 1 1/8" and the standard base I'd recommend not trying to convert the Magnum for use in a Cub. Just to many issues to try and make adjustments for. I'd sell the engine and use the funds to buy parts to overhaul one of the original Cub engines.
elamott
Well-known member
Timing on 129
I have always used timing light to try and set the timing on my 129 and I really struggled with it. Recently I read an article on timing with an omh meter. I finally took out the electronic ignition, put back in the points, and used the meter to set the timing. After I figured out that I was adjusting the points in the wrong direction, it became fairly easy to get the timing right on.
This was new to me and very helpful.
Don't laugh at me, I am old and it is not nice to laugh at old people
Earl
I have always used timing light to try and set the timing on my 129 and I really struggled with it. Recently I read an article on timing with an omh meter. I finally took out the electronic ignition, put back in the points, and used the meter to set the timing. After I figured out that I was adjusting the points in the wrong direction, it became fairly easy to get the timing right on.
This was new to me and very helpful.
Don't laugh at me, I am old and it is not nice to laugh at old people
Earl
