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Archive through November 16, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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digger

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Digger
If you guys will notice on that grill/screen. You just might have see them same grill type shelf in your old IH fridge!
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I just a 147 cub. I want to put a snowblade on it. How do I put a rod on it to raise and lower it. Thanks Robert
 
Thanks guys. Lots of good ideas to weight down the back of the tractor. Time to find some steel and fire up the welder.

Zimm
 
Robert F.
It's not hydraulic, it's electric. And yes it did. There are many with manual lifts too.
Even some of the gear drive Wide frame tractors came with or had the option of electric lift installed.
 
Charlie, now you're pulling my leg, that shelf in the 'fridge doesn't have the same spacing on the cross braces as the 1x2/3 grill insert which just happens to match the grill insert in your 147! As soon as I get back from hunting I'm going to have to dig out the 1x2/3 grill insert that I have and see how it fits in a 1x4/5/6/7 cast grill frame. I just had to check in to see what was up so I don't get withdrawls before I get back to work on Tuesday, yeah, I decided to take Monday off too.
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Kraig.
Tuesday?
Why so soon?
Guess I will be suffering yellow fever withdrawl real bad when I get back here (work) the Monday after hunting season.

And to keep within the sprite of this site I do plan on useing my 72, minus the blade
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to haul any and all white tail deer I happen to harvest this year.
After all does not IH stand for International Harvester?
I am just useing my IH cub cadet 72 for assistance in Harvesting those Internationaly known white tail deer
 
Question for you guys. Is the steering assembly for an Original interchangable with a 70/100? I know they look very similar, but I wasn't sure if they were the same!! Thanks for any help!
 
Well I'm headin out for a couple days, You guys & gals be nice to Bryan.
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Steven T.
I kinda doubt it, the Original steering lever comes out the wrong side for a 70/100.
And if memory serves, the whole assembly is shorter.
 
Ok, thanks. I wasn't sure, but thought I'd ask. I've got some parts laying around from a couple of narrow frames that I had, now I only have 2 Originals. Have a safe trip!!
 
Steven T.
The steering assembly for an Original was a totaly different animal from all the other IH Cubs. Matter of fact they made 2 or 3 versions of it. All were interchangeable. The last had a 5/8" bolt welded in the lever/bolt assembly. Hope this helps.
G.L.
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G.L.L. - Is THAT the same gearbox You posted a pic of the other day? The steering shaft cleaned up REAL nice! The one in My 72 the thrust bearing raceways on the worm portion of the shaft were all rough & pitted and I had to grind them smooth. That gearbox should assembly up nice and tight for the next 40+ yrs! The first time I rebuilt it I remember the tapered pin to follow the groove cost over $20 (in 1984 dollars) so it didn't get replaced.
 
Terry B.
I noticed a hydraulic filter on the back of your cub. Extra Hydraulics?

Digger, Why do you run the car battery instead of regular l&g battery? Cranking- reserve capacity? Does it get quite a bit colder where they don't like to start very well, lots of lights, or is it just a more POWER issue? Just courious, I like to purchase the best battery I can for my vehicles also. You never know when you will need it.
Rick
 
Dennis,
No it is not the same. The greasy one is still greasy & it was from a 127. The clean one is from an Original.The race on the worm gear you talk about grinding would take a steady hand. Can you do it and not have the bearings grind?
 
Dennis,
Forgot to mention in today's prices if you replace both sets of bearings the 2 bearing cups. upper column seal & bearing,cam follower stud & the seal& seal retainer you have over 70 bucks in it.
PS There is not too much any more nasty than the starter/gen. & the steering assembly from a 40 year old Cub. Just my opinion.
G.L.
 
G.L.L. - It was so many years ago I had to resurface those thrust bearing races I can't remember exactly what I used. I think I had an alum. oxide mounted stone for My 1/4" shank Craftsman die grinder (A Dremel on steroids!) that was about the correct radius/diameter and I dressed off the surface with that. If the surface is at least close to the correct radius and perpendicular to the center line of the shaft they work O-K. I didn't have any way to get the whole shaft between centers and still turn it at a constant speed.

Are the ball separators for the thrust bearings still plastic? Those things collapsing caused one of My rebuilds.
 
Here's a easy question, does the "super steer" mod work for Wide Frame cubs too?

I only see narrow frames mentioned.

thanks,
 
I don't see why the Super Steer mod wouldn't work on a WF, the steering boxes are very similar. I had my box apart, and the internals are almost exactly the same as the NF box shown in the FAQ.
 
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