-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through November 14, 2003
- Thread starter lbuttke
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
James P,
The seals are still available, personally I've never had to work on one but many here have and will chime in for ya. I do know that you need replace that centering spring(IH-386 367-R1) when repairing these pumps as that is the part that breaks and then breaks the gears.
The seals are still available, personally I've never had to work on one but many here have and will chime in for ya. I do know that you need replace that centering spring(IH-386 367-R1) when repairing these pumps as that is the part that breaks and then breaks the gears.
W
wdeturck
Guest
James P.: I have an old cylinder and a NOS pump. I never replaced the o rings in the cylinder or the one in the spool valve in the pump. I did replace the front seal in my old pump and I actually installed two as the new seals are thinner and if you get it in to far it will allow fluid to leak due to a drain hole in that area. Someone did have a cylinder that blew out an O ring and they were going to replace it but I never heard if they fixed it.
J
jpawelski
Guest
Charlie- hadn't thought about replacing that spring, I've been lucky enough to only have that slip past the pin and I lost centering tension. Good thought!!
WM- Had the front seal out and it appears to be in good shape. I must still have an old one as it's fairly wide. The face of the seal should probably be flush with the pump housing to eliminate problems with that shaft lubrication hole you spoke of. Thanks!!
WM- Had the front seal out and it appears to be in good shape. I must still have an old one as it's fairly wide. The face of the seal should probably be flush with the pump housing to eliminate problems with that shaft lubrication hole you spoke of. Thanks!!
Denny-
When I got that spring I was living in Waukesha, where the CC dealer wasn't worth a hoot, he was more interested in hanging up the sign under his BIG Yamaha sign than actually dealing with Cub Cadets. The relief spring was for a JD tractor using the same model hydraulic pump. I should have went to C&G but impatient and poor planning drove me to the JD dealer, I guess I lucked out that I got a part that was correct. I don't remember if I got the shim for it or not, but the pressure was improved, BUT if I get the hydro REALLY hot the lift still lags, that's no fault of the spring at that point.
Hopefully by the end of the day the steering box and steering wheel are completely gone over for the Wheatland. Which brings me to my question . . .
Will a steering cap for a 100 fit on the steering wheel for a 107??
When I got that spring I was living in Waukesha, where the CC dealer wasn't worth a hoot, he was more interested in hanging up the sign under his BIG Yamaha sign than actually dealing with Cub Cadets. The relief spring was for a JD tractor using the same model hydraulic pump. I should have went to C&G but impatient and poor planning drove me to the JD dealer, I guess I lucked out that I got a part that was correct. I don't remember if I got the shim for it or not, but the pressure was improved, BUT if I get the hydro REALLY hot the lift still lags, that's no fault of the spring at that point.
Hopefully by the end of the day the steering box and steering wheel are completely gone over for the Wheatland. Which brings me to my question . . .
Will a steering cap for a 100 fit on the steering wheel for a 107??
James P-
The input seal on that pump is little more than an O-ring, I figured it was a lip seal with a metal spine but it's not. The case gasket I replace with a Viton O-ring I get from places that supply chemical pumps. The end "gasket" looks like just a thick rubber washer, I've just used a thick O-ring in the past. As for pressure, there's no way to check since there's no test port for it. It IS possible to shim the pressure spring but I haven't seen a case where it's been warranted. Right now I've got mine completely apart because someone in the past really hosed the plug that holds in the pressure spring I haven't got it out yet but I've drilled it withing a couple thousands of the thread minor diameter and it still won't budge. If I luck out I'll be able to drill it to the minor diameter and be able to pull a coil of threads out . . . . I'm dreading having to drill & tap it oversize.
Having said all that, the most to be gained in these old pumps is to have the face of the body (the inner face) precision ground so that the pocket where the rotors are is the same depth as the rotors are thick, this will minimize the pumping loss. I've been using a mill file on mine and have kept it pretty flat using an indicator and am getting it real close.
The input seal on that pump is little more than an O-ring, I figured it was a lip seal with a metal spine but it's not. The case gasket I replace with a Viton O-ring I get from places that supply chemical pumps. The end "gasket" looks like just a thick rubber washer, I've just used a thick O-ring in the past. As for pressure, there's no way to check since there's no test port for it. It IS possible to shim the pressure spring but I haven't seen a case where it's been warranted. Right now I've got mine completely apart because someone in the past really hosed the plug that holds in the pressure spring I haven't got it out yet but I've drilled it withing a couple thousands of the thread minor diameter and it still won't budge. If I luck out I'll be able to drill it to the minor diameter and be able to pull a coil of threads out . . . . I'm dreading having to drill & tap it oversize.
Having said all that, the most to be gained in these old pumps is to have the face of the body (the inner face) precision ground so that the pocket where the rotors are is the same depth as the rotors are thick, this will minimize the pumping loss. I've been using a mill file on mine and have kept it pretty flat using an indicator and am getting it real close.
tschweizer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2000
- Messages
- 862
- displayname
- Travis Schweizer
Hey Wyatt, come on over again sometime and we'll go after another trailer load of FREE CUBS!!!
J
jpawelski
Guest
Wyatt- Unfortunately those plugs appear to be aluminum and an arressive screw driver operator can tear one up in short order. Sounds like your close, if you get it close enough you could try just cleaning the threads out with the same size tap before drilling and tapping.
What was your need to remove it? A replacemnt or upgrade?
What was your need to remove it? A replacemnt or upgrade?
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
I made the grand trek yesterday to pick up the Haban Flail mower. After doing some work around the house I got it mounted to the 72.
Here's some pix of the "haban fleet"...
I am in need of some literature for it though as I can't seem to figure out how to hook up this lift cable.
Not only is it too long, but can't see how the "tractor end" would even hook on if it was the correct length.
I sure would appreciate some assistance if anybody has any literature for this!
Here's some pix of the "haban fleet"...
I am in need of some literature for it though as I can't seem to figure out how to hook up this lift cable.
Not only is it too long, but can't see how the "tractor end" would even hook on if it was the correct length.
I sure would appreciate some assistance if anybody has any literature for this!
James-
I wanted to completly go through the pump, originally I was going to use that port as the pressure port to get pressure to the TA I had in mind for the tractor I'm building, since PD7 I dropped the TA idea and now just need to get the port where it's serviceable again, not stuck and jimmied tight like it was.
I wanted to completly go through the pump, originally I was going to use that port as the pressure port to get pressure to the TA I had in mind for the tractor I'm building, since PD7 I dropped the TA idea and now just need to get the port where it's serviceable again, not stuck and jimmied tight like it was.
J
jpawelski
Guest
Aaytay- just a thought, the paddle used for snowblowers and front plows might be a point of attachment to your manual lift. You can attach your cable to the flail, then to the paddle and adjust your cable to length......JIM
C
crich
Guest
Anyone know how the front axle pivot pin on my 149 comes out? I'll finally have a chance to work on it this week, gotta swap out the front axle, tie rod, and steering rod after a friend of the family smacked the left front wheel into a tree at full throttle. Thanks in advance!
George Fisher, this page might help you ID your cub, I put it together a couple years back.
Cub Cadet Advertisments
George Fisher, this page might help you ID your cub, I put it together a couple years back.
Cub Cadet Advertisments
Art,
You and I both know who has the paper on that thing! Think green, grin
You and I both know who has the paper on that thing! Think green, grin
J
jchabot
Guest
Tom H:
I like your idea, go for quiet & smooth rather than loud and powerful. I used to mow with my 1000 before the 1650 came along and other than the nuisance of having to shift it, I liked it better than the 1650. I had been toying with the idea of creating a 1050. For normal weekly lawn mowing, I think that an 8 horse would do the job, I have my doubts about the hydro actually robbing 2HP.
I like your idea, go for quiet & smooth rather than loud and powerful. I used to mow with my 1000 before the 1650 came along and other than the nuisance of having to shift it, I liked it better than the 1650. I had been toying with the idea of creating a 1050. For normal weekly lawn mowing, I think that an 8 horse would do the job, I have my doubts about the hydro actually robbing 2HP.
J
jchabot
Guest
Chris R:
There is a small roll pin in the front axle pivot bushing that needs to be driven out before driving out the pivot pin. If the pivot pin is rusted up and doesn't move easily, you may need to remove the engine in order to get a good swing at it.
There is a small roll pin in the front axle pivot bushing that needs to be driven out before driving out the pivot pin. If the pivot pin is rusted up and doesn't move easily, you may need to remove the engine in order to get a good swing at it.
J
jchabot
Guest
Wyatt:
If I remember right, the 100 center cap is a smaller diameter than the one on a 107. You might be able to fab up an adapter bushing from a piece of pvc pipe though.
If I remember right, the 100 center cap is a smaller diameter than the one on a 107. You might be able to fab up an adapter bushing from a piece of pvc pipe though.
W
wdeturck
Guest
Chris R.: On that bottom implement page on Cub Cadets ads. What is the third from the left on the left page. I don't think I ever seen that ad. Could you E-mail the scan to me?
[email protected]
[email protected]
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Denny -
If they're the one's I'm thinking of (Cheif Equipment, Case/<FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>), the main store is alive and well in Oshkosh, on the west side of US41. The place in FdL was just a satelite store, and they went away shortly after the bottom fell out of FdL's economy (thanks, Merc
)
If they're the one's I'm thinking of (Cheif Equipment, Case/<FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>), the main store is alive and well in Oshkosh, on the west side of US41. The place in FdL was just a satelite store, and they went away shortly after the bottom fell out of FdL's economy (thanks, Merc
hello, a friend and I added a creeper to my model 70. we installed new bearing,seal to the unit. After fixing the detent for the hi-lo lever,and coupling the tractor back together we realized that the creeper works well in lo, but jumps out of hi. Has this happened to any of you guys before? I was hoping you guys could offer some insight on this aggravating problem.
