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Archive through May 31, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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rchristensen

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2006
Messages
933
displayname
Richard Christensen
Ben C.
In answer to your question, YES you can run it, if you are willing to live with the results.

A lot depends on what is wrong with your iso mounts, if they are just wore you might get by with no problems, if one or more of the bolts are loose in the oil pan you may ruin your oil pan, if you put the drive shaft in too much strain it may break loose and do some damage to your cub. A lot depends on how lucky you are.
 
Myron- in caser I didnt write and thank you- thank you! my 122 needed a coil and she's up and running. Here's a little question- after cutting, when I shut her off, she stops, then about 2 seconds later- BACKFIRE. every time. ? why?
 
DAVID - How long do You let the engine idle and cool down before You shut the engine off? Is Your idle speed set low enough so the engine is idling slowly when You shut the key off?
These little air cooled engines run REALLY hot, especially when pulled hard. I normally let My mow tractors idle for at least 5 if not 10 minutes while I blow all the dust & clippings off them....and then I idle it down slow enough that the engines only turns maybe 4-5 revolutions before they stop.

What causes the backfire is the raw gasoline flowing thru the engine and hitting glowing red/white hot parts in the muffler and exploding when the ignition is shut off.
 
David P...'cuz there's gas detonating in a very hot muffler... The usual solution is to idle down these old single cylinder Kohlers for at least 60 seconds before turning off the engine to keep them from blowing unburned fuel into the muffler. You may also want to check to see if you are running your carb a little lean. A too lean carb setting will usually get you a cherry red muffler which exacerbates the problem....

Another factor is that many people try and mow/plow with one of these air-cooled engines at less that top rpm. This causes an over heating condition (from insufficient air-flow) which helps cause that problem, particularly when the engine is shut off before a cooling down (non working) period. Tractor ground speed <u>must</u> be controlled by the transmission not with the engine!!

So you see, sometimes it's an improper setting but usually it's the just the "nut" behind the steering wheel..
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If this is a foggy explanation or not clear, I'll try something more detailed...

Myron B
 
Richard: Thank you!! Truthfully that is what I was feeling. It is a pretty good tractor and there is no use pushing things. I got the 1650 1/2 way apart wouldn't take long to fix the problem and go on.

Or it wouldn't take long to put the deck back on the 1000 good Lord I just hate to get it dirty!
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Pops
 
Allen S.,
Those are GREAT build-it-yourself loader sites!!
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Ryan W
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What are the correct dimensions for the CAT 0 lift links/arms, top link mount, etc? Or does it really matter?
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Glen, here's the dimensions from the CAT-0 hitch on the back of my Allis Chalmers 620.

Category 0 dimensions

Upper arm width center to center 15”
Upper arm length 6” (center of pivot point to center of lift arm link attachment pin)
Lower lift arm width center to center 13.75”
Lower arm length 21” (center of pivot point to center of pin attachment hole)
Upper lift arm pivot point is at a point 10” above and 6” rearward of lower lift arm pivot point
Lift arm links - 12.5”, adjustable + or - approximately 2”
Lift arm links attach at rear end of upper lift arms and at a point 5.25” forward of the center of the lower lift arm pin attachment hole
Stay chains attach to lower lift arm at a point 3.5” forward of lift arm link
Top link attachment points are 0.75” and 2” below upper lift arm pivot point (two attachment points offer options for different implements)
Top link attachment points are 1.75” rearward of upper lift arm pivot point
 
Glen, this is what the Allis Chalmers 620 CAT-0 3 point looks like.

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You can change some of the dimensions but the hitch will have to attach to an implement that has fixed mounting points, The CAT-0 to sleeve hitch adapter is a good implement to measure from. Here's the dimensiosn for that (I measured this many years ago for someone that wanted to build the adapter thus all the extra dimensions. Hopefully you can make sense of this) along with a photo of one attached to a Cub Cadet spec CAT-0 hitch.

bottom portion is 3/8" x 2 -1/2" angle stock 18 -3/8" long and has 9 1/2" dia. holes equally spaced 2" on center

side pieces are made from 2 -1/4" x 3/8" bar stock (if straightened out, they would be 18 -1/8" long)

"top link' holes are 11/16" diameter
overall width without lift pins= 19 -1/4"
overall height = 14 -1/8"
height from bottom to center of lower 'top link' hole = 11 -3/8"
height from bottom to center of upper 'top link' hole = 13 -1/4"
width between top pieces where 'top link' connects = 1"
lift pins are 5/8" diameter (standard cat-0 part)
top brace piece is made of 2" x 1/4" bar stock

sleeve adapter portion is made of two pieces of bar stock welded together to form an 'L'

'first piece' is 3" x 1/2" bar stock 5 -1/2" long and is butt welded onto the face of the 'second piece'

'second piece' is 2 -1/4" x 5/16" bar stock 5 -1/2" long

'first piece' has a 3 -3/8" long x 1" O.D. x 11/16" I.D. inserted into it and extending 5/8" beyond has a triangle piece of 5/16" stock as a brace to the pipe

two nuts (9/16-12") are welded to the 'second piece' 2 -3/4" center to center

the sleeve adapter portion is bolted to the main 3-point adapter with two 1/2" bolts through the 'second piece' with 1/2" holes spaced 4" center to center.

58935.jpg
 
Glen, after I posted the photo of the CAT-0 to Sleeve hitch adapter I noticed that the one in the photo did not have the holes in the "bottom portion" sooooo, here's a photo of the one I actually measured from.
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Still a little rough in the old (or not so old) noggin, but I have a much better idea of what needs doing. Thanks A TON Kraig.
 
Decided to get the entire work force out today and give them all a good work out.
Befor putting them away for the day I just had to line them up for a snap shot.
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3235,72,127,100,129,& MTD lawn mower.
The 3235 in my tilling, and snow blowing maching.
The 72 is my main moldboard plowing tractor.
The 127 is my snow plowing and garden disk puller.
The 100 is my corn planter & cultivator tractor.
The 129 is the rough ground lwan mowing machine..
The MTD lawn mower is just that a lawn mower.
 
What types of rear mowers can a 1X8/9 take (rear belt drive PTO)
 
The cub god hates me! I got my 143" belt today and fired up the tiller for the first time. My anticipation quickly turned to anger and dissapointment when the tiller started to jump. I tried different gear and throttle combinations but it fought me like a cat in water. The dirt being cultivated is firmly packed and has lots of little rocks. All of about two minutes into things and the old rear belt snapped, the clouds came rolling in and it started to rain. Tilling mission is now postponed untill tomorow. Has anyone ever delt with a possesed tiller? The only thing I can think of for a remedy is to replace the lift chain with a rod so I can apply down pressure.
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Tim.
A good sugestion woold be to take a cultivator (if you have one) and break up the soil it it befor useing the tiller.
Just a thought.
 
Tim - You'd jump too if someone was beating you with rocks! Solid rod down pressure = broken parts. Something has to give = jumping out of the ground.

Richard - I thought you were building the lifts to sell last time we were chatting ...
 
Id use a turning plow (A good ol Brinly), then a disc/cultivator, and then a tiller to mix up a good batch of tomatoe growin dirt.
Just my two cents.
 
Thanks for your suggestions it was most likley >90% operator error. I guess tillers arn't meant for mining operations but more for aerating. I was just excited to play.
 
Brinly makes a subsoiler that you could use to rip it up a bit before tilling. Or as others have said plow it first if it is hard ground.
 
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