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Archive through May 30, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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pic of pto mess up
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Allen N.-

Release the PTO and rotate it until the setscrews line up with the notches in the basket pulley.
 
Allen
Safe to assume there was no fiber button as it looks like the bar wore that button to a point/stud.

Jeff
 
Hi Guys,

Having some trouble installing the implement lift lever assembly on my 123. When the lift ratchet (8) and ratchet spacer (9) are bolted into position the slot between them is not aligned for proper movement of the lift arm -- somehow the ratchet itself seems too close to the frame. We're a bit confounded by this because it has not been a problem in the past... Any insight would be appreciated.



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Thanks Scott Tanner. Right on, the pin is sheared. These forums are a wonderful help. Thanks.
 
thx for ideas,,, took breather apart -clear,,, toohead and all covers off top of motor no debre ,grass or anything even using air had cleaned all a few weeks ago removed head looked good gasket was good can move piston side to side just a little cylinder wall looked good no wear or lip slight scratches cannot feel but can see had another head, cleaned it and put on with new gasket ,,,,my neighbor came running over thinking my garage was on fire smoke everywhere so that work did not help
 
and just how do i release the PTO and rotate it until the setscrews line up. i have turned the pto and the whole motor turns. try holding the big outter cup and no good either.
 
Allen-

Well, you still might be able to release it the normal way with the release lever. If not, tap the center button with a hammer and rotate the clutch at the same time.
 
Allen, here's how I do the whole procedure of removing the front PTO. Hope it helps.
 
Steve S.,
Make sure the #8 part is not turned around backwards. It does make a difference. I am not 100 percent sure, but I think I installed the lever arm assembly before installing part #8&9. It's a little tricky, but with some patience you can do it.
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Marty -- After checking some of my other ratchets I see the teeth on one end are closer to the mounting hole than on the other end... thanks for pointing this out. Would this effect the clearance when moving the implement arm, though? The lower end of the arm eventually makes contact with the spacer as it moves. This shouldn't happen, right?
 
ok how do you know which models are garden tractors or lawn tractors??
 
Bob - Pretty much if it's shaft drive it belongs here.

Steve - Yes it'd affect it. The schematic below shows it's offset.
I believe #8 turns east or west too. One way being correct.
 
Bob, A friend of mine gave this rule of thumb: it's a garden tractor if it is capable of doing ground engaging work like plowing or tilling. Lawn tractors tend to have smaller frames and wheels and have more limited capabilities such mowing or hauling with a trailer. This is probably not a perfect definition but it works for me.
 
Scott - isn't that a solid pin where the drive shaft attaches to the engine on Skip's 149???? If I recall correct roll pins just don't hold up well there - but on the other hand, the solid pins cut into that slotted attachment cup thing - and worse yet, the solid pins will just fall out sometimes. Ya gotta bugger'm up a little or maybe even get a new drive shaft (yikes) if the hole is oval. Might be able to oversize it a little and use a larger pin.

Steve - ole KENtuckyKen is leading you in the right direction. It's a bit of trial and error, and currently you erred. You have to flip 8 and 9 until you figure which way each goes. And as Marty said, with some patience you can do it.

Bob G - I'm not sure if ole Kentuck and Steve really understood your question the way you wrote it. I agree with their info but my rule of thumb was "if it doesn't have a 12inch rear wheel (or larger) it ain't a Garden Tractor".

Well, you guys figured out I'm back now and checking up on things. Might have a few questions myself due to my prolonged absence. I just can't wait to hear from ole Kentuck.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die - someone always fixes'em
 
WOW - Hydro Harry stops in to harrass Ken. Now all we need is Bryon to pay his forum a visit!

HARRY - You still living in the great north-west?
 
Roll pins in the front of my 149 .Since parts are hard to get here I used a coiled pin from a rock shaft(hollow type) then put a smaller coiled pin inside the hollow pin.
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Steve, The flat part of the lift lever between the vertical lever and the horizontal rockshaft tends to bend/twist over time,especially if the tiller or something else heavy has been used. My 126 which had been used with a tiller had a nasty twist in the flat part when I restored it,took some time to straighten so it would fit properly.

Lanny, Kohlers tend to wear worse at the bottom of the stroke,which you won't see with the piston in place. My 126 which drank oil,before o'haul, looked pretty good until I took out the piston.
 
Is Justin Weaver a member here? I saw him on RFD-TV's "Successful Farming Machinery Show". There was a segment on him and his lawn and garden restoration business. On this segment he had a 1984 782D, a 1975 800 with Pincor generator, a 100 puller and a JD 110, all restored. Anyone see that show?
 
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