Archive through May 29, 2014

[kshultz]

Calling on all 682/782 (KT-17) experts.

This is a series II engine.
As most of you know I bought a 782 last summer and it seems to be a nice machine. Last summer when I first got it I was cautious of it and I thought it was running a little hot when I was mowing with it and sure enough I found a mouse nest in the engine shroud. (For those of you that need help remembering.)

So last week I was running it and it started cutting out and acting up again and then it lost a cylinder so I was headed to the trailer and then it snapped out of it and ran fine up on the trailer. I first checked the oil and the dip stick was so hot I couldn't touch it. So I know it was just getting hot. It was not low on oil. I've since checked again for a mouse nest and everything is clear.
So my question is what the heck is causing my KT-17 to get so hot?

 

[rschrader]

Just my .02 but the carb could be running lean if it's getting overly hot. That, or the air filter could be full of grass and other assorted matter of yard junk.

 

[kshultz]

Ryan,
I'm not sure about the carb. adjustments, but the air cleaner is fairly new and clean.
It does run great and starts right up. If the carb. does need adjusted what screw do I turn?

 

[vthomley]

Shulzie, I think my beloved 122 might have much the same problem that your KT-17 first had. I have not taken the shroud off mine. Last night I plowed my garden, then plowed most of my sweet corn patch - the 122 was running a little HOT.

When I moved the 1250,1250,1650, 123, and the 149 W/FEL out of the way to get to the 122 it did not want to turn over due to a dead battery. So I rolled it up to the front of my shed and put the charger on it. Checked to oil, filled the gas, hooked the plow up and then started it with the charger. Plowed my garden, plowed most of my sweet corn patch and I killed the engine when I lowered the plow while idling. The battery was still dead and I was 500 feet from the shed. I had also noticed it was running a little hot. I towed it to the shed and tonight I'll put a new battery in and look into the overheating problem.

 

[jclazar]

Carbon deposits could cause excessive heat, and cause confusion with the intake or exhaust valves?

Just a thought.

 

[sblunier]

KT and Mag dipsticks all get hot...they sit right beside the right side exhaust manifold and the wire loop gets HOT!!!! Not necessarily a sign of the engine runing any hotter than any other air cooled engine, just poor dipstick placement. (Mine all do it, and not after too long of running either...you learn real quick to check oil BEFORE you run them!)

If it is a KT engine that cuts out my first suspect would be ignition (bad plug/wire/coil, although coil would likely effect both jugs).

 

[sblunier]

Kent,

Carb adjsutments depend on carb. If std Kohler carb they adjust just like a single. If Walbro, some had adjustable main jet, others didn't.

Otherwise, warm up, run WOT, adjust 1/2 turn rich, 1/2 turn lean, split difference, and then go back 1/4 turn rich.

Also check timing if you suspect overheating (but don't use dipstick as guide

)

 

[kshultz]

Steve,
I thought maybe it was getting hot enough for the valves to stick. Is this possible?

 

[kshultz]

Yeah, see how do you check for timing? Timing light?

 

[sblunier]

Set points / timing light, but it's been a while since I had a KT, so I don't remember where the marks are....all mine are Mags now. Should be a plug on the blower housing somewhere.....

Stuck valve is possible.....

 

[tgwaite]

Ron S. & Dennis F.--Thanks for the help. I will be pulling it in the near future. Oil level was good when I started and none on the ground when it quit. I put it in neutral and removed the belt from the tiller and that didn't help. The starter was just rebuilt but it turns over fine with the belt loose. I thought about the overheating but it sat outside over night and no go. Another fall project to work on (and therapy). I've gotten some pretty decent manuals from Binder books for my Farmalls. Any idea on an in depth manual for Kohler?

 

[kide]

Charlie - didn't intend on suggesting that you weren't already the source for a lot of Cub parts .... I was talking about a corporation that takes re-creation of parts for repair/restoration to the next level - all in house. I know you have pursued fabrication of some larger items - my "vision" was this is the company that does that level of manufacturing already...

 

[aschumacher]

Tim W., This is the complete manual for all K series engines. Its gigantic! Download it and print the engine(s) you need.
http://www.kohlerengines.com/manuals/landing.htm

 

[tgwaite]

Alan S.---THANKS!!

 

[teroberts]

I found this piece of metal resting on the mower deck of my 105. I know it's from the cub as it is rusty and yellow but for the life of me I can not find where it went. You can see it has a 1/2" radius bend to it, right at the break where there is a 1/4" hole. It's not very thick, maybe a 1/64th of an inch.

Any help would be appreciated as I do not believe they put this on the tractor for my amusement.

 

[kostendorf]

Tom, Could it be this?
Clip, Safety Switch Release Lever Strip
Part Number: IH-394037-R1

 

[teroberts]

That looks like it Keith!
But where does it go and is there a workaround?
I guess they are not too expensive.
I never use the brakes by the way.

 

[drglinski]

It looks like a safety switch starter strip too; you need it to start your 105. Normally you depress the brake pedal, the tab (that fell off) would depress a switch, and it'll start. When the tab falls off, the switch cannot be depressed, and she won't start. There are ways of going around this, but I won't tell you because of lawsuit issues.

 

[dschwandt]

Tom, if you look under the tractor you will more than likely see where it came from on the clutch/brake shaft. There is a push nut that goes over the spirol pin that the lever snaps onto/over to keep it from falling or working its way off. But if the lever is broken like yours that nut may still be on the pin. The lever is a snap it over the shaft and the pin aligns it in the proper orientation to meet the switch when the pedal is depressed or the hydro linkage is put into neutral.

 

[teroberts]

Thanks for all the info. I will look later tomorrow but I have to assume this was never working in the first place because I have never depressed the brake pedal in 7 years. It just slows down when I adjust the speed lever and stops when I put it in the middle.