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Archive through May 25, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Park Rapids Mn.
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Digger
Brendan,
Kentuck's been a little busy taking care of some family matters lately. His wife has been in the hospital and his back is given him fits. He'll be back soon to nag at us.
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Ya know...ya get so used to the bi!@#!& that ya get lonely when it's not there
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That is a real nice fender pan you posted in the wanted. Aaron does real nice work. Haven't decided yet if I'm gonna put fenders on FrankenCub yet but if I do Aaron will be getting an email.
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DOES ANYBODY HERE COLLECT CUB CADET L&G TOYS? I HAVE A STRONG INTEREST IN THEM AND A LARGE COLLECTION OF THEM.
 
Terry,
I do. I have one of each model (but not each variation) and have restored several of them.
 
Terry M. I only have a 149, 1811, and a 127. Used to have a couple of 682s and a 125 only the kids got them in the divorce.

Kinda slow here today. Soooo... here goes. I recently acquired an IH #2 cart. I've checked the FAQ section and can't seem to find any information on serial numbers. Is there a serial number breakdown on the years this cart was made?
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<font size="-2">Oh, man. This should activate things around here. I'd better run for cover.
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Hi, new member here...
I recently bought a 1250, which I hope to use as a weekly mower. I will purchase manuals. The mower deck (48" cut) only raises (manual lift) to 2" on the right (discharge) side and 3 1/4" on the left side. Should this mower deck be able to raise higher? I would like to mow at 3 or even 4" high. I see an adjustment on the left hanger that has never been moved, so I am wondering what has gotten the deck out of level.

I did not find any posts about the mowing heights of these decks. Thanks!}
 
Ken F.
I'll save Steve B. from wearing his fingers out on the deck leveling thing.

To do this job good and right...and make a deck tune up "hold" you will need to fix all of these areas.

1) Remove the QA hangers. Get some 1/8" x 3" flat stock, place it over the hanger locations (after you have beat them flat where the bolts have tried to pull out of the skin), and weld the whole strip (20 some inches) across the back of the deck with short weld seams...this will make the rear hangers rock solid and stop future abuse. re-drill and re-attach the QA hangers.

2) grind out and reapir any cracks at the right rear gauge wheel.....reinforce as necessary.

3) Fix any other flaws in the metal......bang out the front lip of the air tunnel if it is dented in, etc.

4) with the deck on it's back, install new blades (GATOR Blades are the prefered blade of choice for 44" and 50" decks IMHO) and start checking them tip-to-tip for level cutting, use a long straight edge to make sure all of the blades are in the same plane. If any of the spindles are tweaked, whack the deck skin around the spindle with a BFH as needed to correct.

5) Flip the deck back over and set the 2 outer blades on 2x4 blocks, on edge (along the long axis of the tractor). This should have all of the blades in a plane 3-1/2" off of the floor and parallel to it. Measure the distance from the gauge wheels to the floor (in the same holes)...it should be the same...if it's not, persuade them back into shape as necessary....BFH, etc. BUT NOT WITH THE DECK ON THE 2x4's...you'll bend the blades.

6) Install a front gauge wheel kit if you so desire. Weld the brackets on so that with the gauge rear gauge wheels are in the bottom holes and the front "ball wheels" are in the bottom holes they are the same distance off of the ground when the deck is positioned as in step 5

7) Mount deck, with tractor on level surface, tire air checked...etc. as I describe in the FAQ. Rough level fore/aft using the front eye bolts. You make run out of adjustment in the eyes before you get the front blade tips up far enough to be level.... in that case remove the subframe and bend the "pickle fork" looking tail on the front eye bolt carriage (the fork that slips over the tractor's lift rockshaft) up in the air about an inch...use a torch... and then repeat the process. level front blade tips to within 0" to -1/4" of the rear blade tips.

8) Level side to side using adjustable deck hangers (see sponsors or your local dealer). Level side - side to within 1/4". Recheck fore-aft and then tighten everything down.

9) Roughly set desired cutting height at blade tip. Set gauge wheels in holes so that they are 1/2"-3/4" off of the ground, fine tune deck final deck height to get the 1/2"-3/4" measurement "dialed in". Set and lock the depth stop cam in the tractor's lift.

10) Go mow your yard and marvel at the pool table like appearance.
 
Well I had a great day today.bought a head gasket for the O i took home from Maine,Charge a battery for the 147 and found no fire , new points, plug and she ran with no smoke.Tomorrow carb cleaning and finish tunning the 147 and install head gasket in the O and take her for a little run. she will need all new rubber and paint later.Later Don T
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has anybody got pictures of a sand trap rake? I would like to build one if I can get the right pictures and parts.
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I was wondering if anyone knew what linkage clip I needed for the K301 on my 123? Its the clip that held the throttle linkage to the governer arm. The service manuals both show a control rod with a Z type bend in it that wouldnt require a clip, however mine has just an L type bend and had a plastic clip holding it on that I broke....Engine codes to 1994 if that helps. Hoping someone knows before I go on a parts store search.
 
John N.-

It's just a simple e-clip...I'm not sure of the size. Take the linkage piece to your favorite hardware store and find one that fits...
 
Thanks Charlie!!!!!

I was just looking at the pics of the tornado damage in IA and MN...ouch!
 
Despite the weather over the weekend, large hail, heavy rain, windy and cooler then normal temps. I did manage to make some progress on the Original and 125 refurb.

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The windshield on my neighbor's truck was cracked, so far I haven't found any damage yet to my property. Here's a sampling of the hail. The worst of the storm went just north of me.

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Art, you'll be happy to know that I made progress on some parts that are not in the photos, the S/G for the 125 has a nice coat of primer on it and the Original fender pan is almost all cleaned up, just the inside corners to finish (must get blasting media) and the Original steering column got cleaned up, again, and re-primed. For some reason the primer was flaking off of it.
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I think the primer didn't like the bare metal prep stuff I used.
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Hopefully it won't happen again.
 
Kraig-
You probably just didn't hold your face right when you put on that primer. That'll make it flake off EVERYTIME!
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