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Archive through May 18, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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fcurrier

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Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
By Charlie Proctor (Cproctor) on Wednesday, May 18, 2016 - 05:13 pm:

So the forums info email address gets this email!
On 5/18/2016 3:54 PM, Charles Oakleaf wrote:
>
> Hi I'm Charles. I have bought a new starter in selonid in it will not turn over still

Should I tell him to check the gas cap?

A little more info would be good - like is he from Minnesota?
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Under edit: I'm glad I stopped in here when I did. I hauled a 108 home last Saturday, got it running (no problem) and left it running until it ran out of old gas. Just went out to shut the key off.
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Jeff: Probably not (he says, optimistically). I've become a fan of the 10hp Kohler, and I think this one is going to get transplanted into a 123. Snow is gone, mild weather forecast, archive bug not due back for awhile. If you've got 'em, post 'em.
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I am finally at a point where I can start work on my 782.

The Magnum 18 that I bought is tired, and needs a complete rebuild. My question to all of you who are familiar with these engines: "Do I need to use genuine Kohler parts, or are Stens and other aftermarket parts acceptable? Are there any parts manufacturers that are not acceptable?"

I need to try to stay within some sort of a budget on this thing, and yet, I want it to be well done.

Thank you in advance.
 
Frank C. Great catch on the 108. When the weather cooperates enough on weekends and work slows down enough then I'll fire ours up.

Charlie P. Your email is one reason that I don't like trying to help diagnose hydro or engine problems anymore. Too many times the received information is just like what you have.

Brian W. When on budget like many of us are... I'd go ahead and use the Stens parts.
 
Are the carbs on the kt-17's similar to the #30 on a k341? I'm looking to rebuild my 782's carb but its my first time with a twin that isn't an Onan or Briggs. I got new points, condensor, and plugs the last is carb because the fuel pump is pushing fuel past the needle flooding it. Its been sitting 2 years with old gas so this is typical for me. I'll snap pics this weekend hopefully
 
Same rebuild concept. KT carb is actually sized more like a #26, but all of the rebuild principles apply the same.
 
Frank (Maine Spud Picker) Currier - what do you mean you've become a fan of 10hp Kohlers? First it's the 12hp 12x Cub units. Then it's the 149 with 14hp and never re-sell one again. Now it's 10hp Kohlers. Tell us the TRUTH!!!!!
You've got Yell'r & White FEVER - YOU LOVE THEM ALL!!!!!!
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I said I had yellow an white fever, then I found the 782...
I was hoping I could swap out the #30 carb I have onto the kt-17, but it appears no such luck. I'll just get a kit for it this weekend. I have a gone through #30 carb sitting.
 
Earl,

Linkages are unique, but rebuild is same....
 
My 128 with rebuilt K 301 engine that uses very little oil gives a large puff of blue smoke when throttle is opened after a period of idling. Why?
 
Thanks Steve. I had wanted to do a swap of the carbs, but without having in front of me I didn't think about the linkages. Placed an order at CC specialties and will wait for my parts to arrive and tackle the carb then. Hopefully I'll get the 782 home from my buddies barn this weekend and get the points, condenser, plugs and oil changed. Guy took real good care of it and it showed in most all of the equipment he had.
 
Should the fibre disk for the front pto be tight in the clutch basket, mine moves side to side, should I get a knew one and where from? Thanks
 
Ewan: It moves. Anti-rattle springs can be installed:

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Harry: I'm kinda liking the red 682 too.
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Doug W., some oil builds up on the valve stem, as you raise the throttle a surge of vacuum pulls some of this oil into the cylinder where it gets burned off.

This is a good thing! You need oil getting in the stems and some past the rings to keep the parts lubricated. HTH.
 
I've been looking through the service manual for my 108 on how to put the clutch back together, when I ran into conflicting sources. On the parts lookup from Cub, they show the teaser spring going before the spacer, directly in front of the throwout bearing, as shown in 'Picture 1':

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In picture 2, directly from the service manual, they show the teaser spring BEHIND the spacer, as shown in 'Picture 2':

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My question is basically which one should I follow? My intuition tells me to go with the service manual, but I am unsure. Thanks in advance.
 

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Billy: I'm pretty sure the parts lookup is wrong.
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Hey Harry: Either you didn't read under the PTO pic or I should've written <font color="ff0000">682 </font><font color="000000">in </font><font color="ff0000">red.
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