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Archive through May 17, 2017
- Thread starter hydroharry
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
As some of you may or not know.
Around the end of last year, front wheel bushings for the Original went NLA from Cub Cadet.
PN- IH-376188-R1
BUT!
The wheel bushings for a No. 1 cart were still available at pretty close to 3 times the dealer cost of the Original front wheel bushings.
PN- IH-492027-R1 USE IH-539476-R1
Not paying attention, which is nothing unusual for me!
I decided to order a batch of the No. 1 cart wheel bushings.
They came in today.
The NLA Original wheel bushing is the one on the left and the No.1 cart bushing is on the right!
Yes, they are one and the same part!
I haven't decided if I'm just stupid or just ignorant about the whole deal by not catching that sooner, but I'm leaning towards just plain stupid!
After confirming the obvious when the cart bushings came today, I went in and ordered 100 of the cart bushings just in case.
Around the end of last year, front wheel bushings for the Original went NLA from Cub Cadet.
PN- IH-376188-R1
BUT!
The wheel bushings for a No. 1 cart were still available at pretty close to 3 times the dealer cost of the Original front wheel bushings.
PN- IH-492027-R1 USE IH-539476-R1
Not paying attention, which is nothing unusual for me!
I decided to order a batch of the No. 1 cart wheel bushings.
They came in today.
The NLA Original wheel bushing is the one on the left and the No.1 cart bushing is on the right!
Yes, they are one and the same part!
I haven't decided if I'm just stupid or just ignorant about the whole deal by not catching that sooner, but I'm leaning towards just plain stupid!
After confirming the obvious when the cart bushings came today, I went in and ordered 100 of the cart bushings just in case.
Attachments
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Charlie - "just stupid or ignorant", geez, that's quite a quote.
In my view buying 100 bushing for No. 1 carts is really going out on a limb. When you sell them to someone they'll probably just return them and say they are the wrong part number
In my view buying 100 bushing for No. 1 carts is really going out on a limb. When you sell them to someone they'll probably just return them and say they are the wrong part number
Attachments
lpalma
Well-known member
Charlie, I have some of those IH-492027-R1 wheel bushings, the number you give is for a #2 cart, but mine are 3/4" just like the IH-539476-R1 bushings.
But Cub Cadet can be funny at some times.Glad to see you found an alternative.
BTW, you can bore out the IH-539476-R1 to 7/8" and those are still available from Cub Cadet.
But Cub Cadet can be funny at some times.Glad to see you found an alternative.
BTW, you can bore out the IH-539476-R1 to 7/8" and those are still available from Cub Cadet.
bellwood
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2007
- Messages
- 141
- displayname
- Brian Ellwood
Well, I'm so close, need a little advise.
Preface, I know the actuator is missing in the build below, just wanted to photo to be clear.
For the most part this has gone together pretty smoothly... I had to use a file on the inner sides of the slots on the lower pressure plate so it would move nicely about the roll pin.
That said, I dont have the clearance needed to drive the final roll pin through the top plate/shaft
Is there a trick to compressing the large spring a bit so the lower plate can drop enough to permit the installation of the top pin.
Also, how freely should that lower plate move about the roll pin? It's not sliding as freely as the old stuff (Which obviously has tons of wear)
Thanks all
Edit: Images didnt post, see next post
Preface, I know the actuator is missing in the build below, just wanted to photo to be clear.
For the most part this has gone together pretty smoothly... I had to use a file on the inner sides of the slots on the lower pressure plate so it would move nicely about the roll pin.
That said, I dont have the clearance needed to drive the final roll pin through the top plate/shaft
Is there a trick to compressing the large spring a bit so the lower plate can drop enough to permit the installation of the top pin.
Also, how freely should that lower plate move about the roll pin? It's not sliding as freely as the old stuff (Which obviously has tons of wear)
Thanks all
Edit: Images didnt post, see next post
Was working on the 149 yesterday - grease fitting on the front axle broke off. I have new grease fitting on order with Charlie. What is the best way to remove the broken off piece left in the front axle? The piece spins but does not back out.
