Brian, 1st off you knock the very front pin out. You do have a set of (spirol) roll pin punches I hope.
This will allow the clutch pates, disc and throw out lever to be removed, they should side right off, leaving the teaser spring, T/O bearing and main spring in place, held there by the 2nd & 3rd pin.
Then you simply assemble the tool on the shaft spanning everything between the 2 remaining pins
in such a way as to allow the pin(s) to be driven out after the spring has been compressed with the tool by tightening the nut(s) on the ends.
Secure the ass'ly in a vise by one end to do this.
I usually just clamp the shaft in my vise between two 1/4" aluminum jaw faces, then drive the shaft in just enough to remove the pin, then slowly back off the pressure to free the shaft. It will only jump out a couple inches or so, as the compressed length is only a bit shorter than the relaxed length. But you have the tool to do it right there in your picture.
Examine all the parts closely for wear, especially the pin holes and ends of the shaft where they enter the couplings, the couplings themselves and also the 3 pin clutch driver Good time to replace the teaser spring and cup (if used). I'd lay in a few new spirol pins as well and replace them all. Charlie has these along with whatever else you may need to complete your repair.
I see you have an original clutch disc. If in good shape, reuse it as it had a metal core the new replacements do not have. DO NOT use regular hardware variety split roll pins. They will break soon.
Check the clutch plates for rust, pitting or uneven wear. As this unit has been operational lately, they may not need resurfaced. This can be done on a belt sander if need be, try to get across hatch pattern for better grip. Matter of fact, if they are mirror finish shiny, it would be best to hit them w/the sander, or you could do the same thing with a piece of 80 grit taped to a flat surface, that is if you have the time to do some rubbing!!
Good Luck!