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Archive through May 12, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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mgwin

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2009
Messages
3,509
Location
Reidsville, NC
displayname
Marty A. Gwin
Question:
Would a sickle mower that came off of a sears suburban fit on a cub cadet 100? All I know is the mower is a Sears brand, and it sort of looks like a Haban.
Thanks,
 
Shultzie,

Good idea on the clutch release pivot. I made something similar for my 100. Instead of the counterbored holes, I tapped them 1/4-20 from the back side and added a grease zerk on top of the block to lube the pivot pin. I replaced the pivot pin with a 3/8" shoulder bolt. I tightened the shoulder bolt down against the sides of the clutch release lever so that it could only pivot in the pivot block.
 
I can honestly say I don't enjoy working on narrow frame cubs. A few days back the throw out bearing froze on the 124 while mowing. I start the process and end up deciding to switch it over to hydraulic lift. I have the front jacked up quite a bit but I've found just pulling the engine then lifting the front of the tractor almost straight up with Claude and the lift pole is going to be the fastest way to get everything back in. I had to make another drive shaft and the teaser was broken as usual. Of course I had to paint several parts, chase threads in places, and rebuild (build up with weld) the clutch release arm and mounting bracket Shultzie was talking about. The cross shaft used for the new lift system was well worn where the deck pickle fork works. The steering box had leaked a lot of the grease from the standard warped cam bracket. I put it on the press and got it a little flatter then readjusted everything about the box/steering. I also plan to install a 3 pt lift since I'm going hydraulic which will increase this tractors usefulness around here.

It's a good thing these repairs last a while or I might just be a wide frame only guy from now on.

I've never been able to disassemble something, fix it, and reassemble it without dealing with any rust I come across. In most cases I will at least clean and prime things to slow that process. This is the main reason it takes me forever to get things done in a timely fashion. I'm waiting for paint to dry as I type. Hopefully tomorrow will bring the finale of this project and the 124 will be mowing again.

.
 
Will a narrow frame steering box and tube fit in a 1450?
 
Doug, the narrow frame Cub Cadets used steering boxes/tubes with different length tubes, so it's not a yes or no answer. I believe the 70/100 and 1x2/3 series both used a longer tube than the 1x4/5 and 1x6/7. The 1x4/5 and 1x6/7 series had the steering wheel with the deep dish and could get away with a shorter tube. The 70/100 and 1x2/3 series had rather flat steering wheels and required longer tubes. So I believe either would work but a steering box/tube from a 1x4/5 or 1x6/7 would work better than one from a 70/100 or 1x2/3. But then again, it might be too short. Hopefully someone that knows for sure will post. I do know that one from a 1x8/9 will fit. Basically the differences are in the length of the tube.
 
Thanks Kraig, I believe since I have the parts available I might be better of rebuilding the box in the 1450 rather than trying to see if the already rebuilt narrow frame box I have would fit.
 
Hi all. I have a question about my 126 with a K301. I'm putting the front PTO together and the instructions don't say if the friction plate should be tightened down or slightly loose. I have adjusted it with the gauge so that all screws are equal. Any help will be appreciated.
 
Don T2, here's the section from the service manual for the 1x6/7 that covers the PTO assembly. With it together and adjusted there should be a fair amount of pressure on the friction disc. Note the section I have outlined in red. Adjusting it like this should provide the proper tension on the friction disc. For sure it should NOT be loose.

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Thanks Kraig. Those are the instructions I'm using but I guess I'm not getting it right. I'll have to try again.
 
Is there a easy way to remove the 3 blades on a 42 inch deck? I got the center blade off using an impact driver. The 2 Outer ones are really tight. I am afraid I will mess up the threads if I keep trying? HELP.
 
I tried to use my CC86 for the first time in 5 years and the PTO clutch must be frozen the deck blades are turning while I am cranking the engine over. Is there a easy fix to this problem?
 
Cletus, have you used any penetrating oil on the nuts for the mower deck blades? If not, spray the nuts down good with a quality penetrating oil, note WD40 is NOT a penetrating oil, and let it soak for a few hours then spray again and let it soak for another few hours. Then try again with the impact wrench. Regarding the the PTO, make sure the lever is in the position that would disengage the PTO, then with a small scraper carefully pry between both sides of the friction disc and the PTO housing to make sure that it is not rusted together. Be VERY careful that you do not damage the friction disc.
 
I don't say much on here but it sure bothered me I couldn't get on. I kept checking every 10 minutes. I know what it feels like to get kicked off now and I don't like it...
 
I'm still in the process of getting this 124 back to work. I installed the 3pt casting and lift bar but the bar hits one of the mounting bolts (frame to rear end) when I manually try and work it through it's range of high and low. Has anyone encountered this situation??? Is there a way to adjust this bar motion?

If I am the only one this has happened to throughout history then I understand.

As ole Don states...one step forward and two steps back.

.
 
Does anyone know if Originals had the 7HP decal on their gas tanks? I can't seem to find a picture that shows one.
 
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