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Archive through May 12, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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fcurrier

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Messages
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Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Trent: The plug placement on a replacement head should coincide with the engine tin you now have or you'll have to redo the tin.
Grubnubbits are cute little things (kind of like gremlins, but more micheavous ). They migrate around, causing inconveniences here and there. They like to follow the Spring weather and play around with machinery that is being wakened from its winter's nap, though they, themselves, never nap. As far as I know no one has ever been able to get a picture of one.
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Trent - it's a real pain but I'd recommend removing the head to get all the filings out. I wouldn't want all those little thread wires getting heated up and flying up and down, but lets see what others say.
Also, I'd be real suspicious of your voltage regulator but if you have voltage at the coil you need to see if you have spark at the points. It could be your condensor.

Frank - you better put your spell checker to work. What kinda spellin' is this " (Company 607, Great Lakes Navel Training Center). " You got a ship tatooed on your belly button? And by the way I was Company 599, Naval Recruit Training Command, San Diego.
 
Thanks Ron for checking, maybe they can be pressed out somehow.
Frank I see spring is still a few months away.
 
Got the Haban sickle mower mounted on the 73 minus the belt guard. It does fit now but the right side of the mower seems a bit lower than it should be...wondering what others have for ground clearance and if this can be adjusted somehow?

Also, I was wondering earlier if the belt guard would fit with a shorter brake adjusting bolt on the tractor, but we decided against that for fear of messing up the brake setting. Does anyone know the dimensions of this bolt and whether a shorter bolt would suffice for braking purposes? Another half inch of clearance would be needed for the belt guard on the mower to fit.
 
Harry B
Yep condenser would be my guess . had a plug cross threaded once and was able to remove the head and chase the tread from the inside. I just never trusted that head and replace it . Spares come in handy.

Frank c

We are mowing grass down here lol. I had the HD out last weekend for a day trip to Digby and back. I got my 102 running today by installing a charged battery and some fresh gas . Ran like a charm pulling my fertilizer spreader . I think I have to adjust the brake rod To get a better parking break. It likes to roll away with my spreader. I hope you guys are having as much seat time as I`am getting. I almost forgot what that feels like ! good for the soul
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147 in the am will see a fresh battery. I have 8 charged batteries . I hope the rain stay away .
 
Steve S.
There is an adjustment on how high it will mow. The spring can be put in different links in the chain to make it go higher or lower.
The red arrow is that adjustment and the green arrow is the handle to bring it up off the ground.
I also added a chain so the bar wouldn't bend after awhile (blue arrow). I'm terrible about explaining things so maybe someone else can chime in.
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I'm enjoying my model 72! It is as close to a new 1968 International Cub Cadet as I can get! What power the Kohler K 241 has, and sounds so good, and a all-gear transmission that has not run in over 20 years has a sound I just love to hear being full of Hy-Tran. The steady speed the tractor holds just keeps right on going when operating through the yard. Operation, simplicity of maintenance, reliability, IH stamped hardware, and being over-built...its plain to see the garden tractor of International Harvester's hay-day of success!

Enjoy the day, and your narrow frame Cub Cadet!
 
Doug B,

If you have an owner’s manual go to page 20, if not go to manual section in this forum for 1x8 1x9 tractors (PDF page 23). This page is the hydraulic lift section, see the image on the left. When the mower deck is in the fully upward position the actuator should be fully extended. Note that the rod end is almost over the rag joint and there should be around 7” of exposed actuator rod (this is a guess). The right side rock shaft lift arm pin should be up very near the frame, around 12.5” off the ground, if you have standard stock tires. The pin should around 10.25” off the ground with actuator rod fully retracted (down). The roll pins will have no effect on the right side lift arm. If the rock shaft moves in up this high, the issue is likely with the deck hanger assembly.

One more thought, make sure the actuator is attached to the rock shaft in the upper hole and not the 3 pt lift or float hole.

Jim
 
Trent, I'd suggest pulling the head, and as Don Tanner said, chase or re-tap the threads from the inside.

If the threads don't clean up, then you can easily put a heli coil in it or have it done. If you want to do it on your own, you can use your spark plug as a guide for the thread pitch and size. It isn't really hard to do, but, you'll need a tap and drill specific for the job.

Or run it by any machine shop and see what they charge for it?
 
Jim P. every thing looks ok except #19, right lift arm looks bent somewhat. I'll try and check those measurements you gave me. I'm wondering if I've got the correct link that goes from the deck to the frame.
 
Doug,

I have a 44" deck on my 1250. I, too, would like to get the deck to raise higher. I have adjusted it as high as I can and it cuts at 3 to 3-1/2". But, I have lowered the back deck wheels to only about 1/2" above the driveway. This is the way that I mow, but I am not able to adjust the height of the deck at all without removing the deck wheels.

Just a thought, maybe your wheels were set up like this as well. Or maybe I have misunderstood your problem.
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Ken F. your set up sounds like mine. my rear wheels are in the holes closet to the ground. this works good when in the yard by the house, but out in the rough in taller grass it really works the engine. there are times when the grass is tall or when just driving over rough ground it would be nice to get the deck up off the ground
 
Does a haban sickle mower shake the crap outta the tractor like a rear mounted tiller does, or can you not feel it when it is running?
 
Thanks guys! Ill give ya a call later Ron, soon as I can get my cub towed up to the shop! that might be worth a picture!!
 
Trent, My experience with Helicoils was a good one. First off... the threads in the helicoil are an oddball size. You can't just drill oversize and Tap for the helicoil. When I did a small engine a few years back, The guy at CarQuest lent me his tool when I bought the correct helicoil (bring you Spark Plug with you so they get the depth correct). The Head has to be off the Engine for this tool to function.
This tool Chased the existing threads enough to then cut and tap the Helicoil thread. Clean the new Threads, put Loctite on the Helicoil and screw it in. Then there is the part everyone misses. The end of the Helicoil has a lip on it that should be Peened over into the head on the Cylinder side of the Head.
Can't find the same tool he had anywhere but it worked excellent
 
Tony Carefull on towing I don't know what hydro valves you have but towing can turn the hydro to junk
 
Trent.. Becareful towing your 1450 unless you have a release lever you can lock or just pick it up from the rear enough to get the wheels off the ground.
 
Thank you so much for the information!! Here are some pix of my tow truck... a DX 22e Farmall built by Case IH/Shubara.... also may have been an Anheuser Busch sponsored event...
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