I used Tiny Tachs on the Cushmans, but never happy with their response time, the processor must run at about 5 Khz... I mounted the Hobbs Hour Meter in the dash on the 129.. Hole saw did most of the work
No wonder you can't define the differences, with all of those "pre and post production" changes yours has ....
I understand, the 169's are special and you guys should be proud of your restorations, I just drink the "correct police" kool-aid once in a while and that was one of those times....
Brian - did your snow melt away up there yet? Hey an acceptable repower for a 782 would be a KT17 Series II. Don't know what else may fit but hopefully someone else will also pipe in here.
Jeremiah - well, I didn't exactly explain how it works, but since you commented here goes - 1st off, it has a wire that extends as you rotate the rpm numbered wheel. The wire vibrates either side to side or up/down. As you extend the wire this movement begins to increase then narrow down and will actually change from side to side - to the up/down motion. The sweet spot it right at the point where the direction changes. The movement will start a looping motion and you can narrow it down or widen it but very slight rotation of the wheel. The mid point of the looping size is the actual rpm's. It's pretty neat and known to be very accurate.
HEY - thanks for the info on the studs to. I re-read my post and said bolts where I meant studs so I'll clarify. I also didn't mean they should be bottomed out, just close cause they will rust/freeze in place and can be a pain to remove next time.
Bill J - I think the studs should be close to the bottom of the threads but not tight. Jeremiah mentioned backing off a 1/2 turn which sounds good to me. As I noted before, you also have to consider if the top of the stud is going to be used for anything else, like the gas tank mount, spacers, washers, split or lock washer, and the thickness of the nut you're using.
HOW BOUT SOME PICS!!!!!
Brandon M - there are still lots of SAE30 detergent oils out there. You apparently just haven't looked in the right place. Most NAPA stores have it on the shelf in several brands. You can get it from the sponsors that's specific for these small air cooled engines (very likely low ash content), etc.
I use CaseIH Akcela low ash oil in my k-301 that powers my 1250. It is a low ash, detergent oil and has stayed incredibly clean over its life. It is available in 30 weight and 10 weight. You can get it at any CaseIH dealer.
Getting closer with the 126. Some things I'm working through:
1. Choke and throttle linkage hook-up. The throttle cable seems like it's about 4 inches longer than it needs to be. Choke seems pretty straight forward.
2. Mounting the coil and condenser.
3. Mounting the fuel tank. Presently it looks like one of the studs from the head is sticking up just enough to touch the bottom of the fuel tank. Not sure if that fuel tank bracket get's spaced-up a bit from the stud.
4. Need to hook-up the wiring to the S/G and V/R. I seem to remember the S/G get's a ground wire to the frame? Not close enough to it in the effort to have a look-see, but got that tid bit in my hip pocket for later.
Also have the front grill installed and a new brass button for the PTO.
Don't really have any pics of the effort on this round - I'll try to do better going forward...
I have looked on the manual and in archives but have not seen any info regarding hydro oil and filter changes.
What is the consensus on how often should you change the fluid and filter on the hydro. I have not changed mine in a long time and I am thinking maybe it is time. Also how much does a 129 hold.
I would appreciate any comments
My cub is a 106:
1) After seeing the oil comments, am I wrong to be running Mobil 1 High milelage 10w30 in my k241?
2) I need to replace my gearbox oil. Is it just 90w or are there other recomendations?
3) Does the gear box have syncronizers? I'm often grinding when switching gears.